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Disassembled my carb to replace leaking bowl gasket and set float level. I can't find in the manual or online parts schematic that there is a o-ring at this location in picture. Did someone add one previously or is it factory? Would like to put this back together today but I want to do it right.
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I put an o-ring in that place however I don't think they come that way from the factory.
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Snake2715
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Discussion Starter • #1 May 21, 2011
Ok,



I am new to these bikes, just picked ours up last year 2006, no real work needed only 900 miles. My buddy at that time picked up a 1991 with 6000 miles ran decent, smoked a little and harder to start.



I started this thread as I had the 1991 leaking when I turned on the peacock.



Off-Topic





anyway its that time to rebuild... i find this excellent thread on the teardown of the old arb and it still has some pics intact:



Vendors







From bottom with bowl removed. Original parts are on the white backgound, with (from left) the pilot screw, jets, and needle valve parts roughly lined up with the 4 holes they go into.




My question is I am going to clean this entire area carefully. Is there a thread on the stock settings for these? I will measure the turns of the screws as I remove them, but am hoping I can reset to stock for these screws... Also The splash guard washer (white in the picture with the two small holes).. that was just sitting in the bottom of the bowl, is that correct?







Any help or direction anyone can give is appreciated.


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PJungnitsch
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#2 May 21, 2011
From what I remember it's only the mixture (pilot) screw that is adjustable, the rest just go to tight. Stock setting for the pilot is 1.5 to 2.5 turns out, I found my bike started much better at the richer setting of 4 turns out.



The plastic shield AFAIK is a press fit on the main jet:







Doubt if it is really that important.


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Snake2715
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Discussion Starter • #3 May 21, 2011
Ok I found the pilot was set to 3.75 turns out. A lot of destroyed gaskets or orings... basically mush and tore when trying to remove.



Needle Valve is really not springy any longer and I believe that may be why we had a stuck float at one point. Needle valve seat screw is junk I cant seem to get it out.. not sure if I should continue as there is a gasket under there, and given the other gasket conditions to this point, I am guessing thats fried as well.





Good to know that the jets are tight. i have not removed the pilot jet as i didnt have a small screwdriver handy... it was in the house and I was in the garage. Done for the night going to price a few parts and go from there.


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Snake2715
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Discussion Starter • #4 May 24, 2011
Quick question for anyone able to answer... what part is the oring visible in PJungnitsch's post... next to (left of) the pilot screw? I cant find that oring on the parts diagram for this carb...


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demarko69
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#5 May 26, 2011
Snake2715 said:
Quick question for anyone able to answer... what part is the oring visible in PJungnitsch's post... next to (left of) the pilot screw? I cant find that oring on the parts diagram for this carb...




you mean this? I dont know but may lizrdbrth or qwerty or 0ne of the other experts know what it is and where to get it


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PJungnitsch
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#6 May 26, 2011
I believe that is just an O-ring:







Like in this kit here:



http://cgi.ebay.ca/YAMAHA-TW200-TW-200-TRAILWAY-KEYSTER-CARB-KIT-87-2000-/290566952528?pt=Motorcycles_Parts_Accessories&hash=item43a723d650



Note, not sure how good those kits are, ie there's no way I'd want a #38 pilot jet in mine.


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demarko69
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#7 May 27, 2011
I took mine apart and itlooks like a special oring, kinda flat with a round ridge around it..



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Snake2715
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Discussion Starter • #8 Jun 12, 2011
demarko69 said:
I took mine apart and itlooks like a special oring, kinda flat with a round ridge around it..


Yeah it is and I am going to attempt to re use mine... however its not on the parts diagram I find it odd.


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raffles
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#9 Oct 10, 2012
demarko69 said:





you mean this? I dont know but may lizrdbrth or qwerty or 0ne of the other experts know what it is and where to get it
Click to expand...
Hi did anybody ever find out if this o- ring can be ordered for early type carb if i understand its not item part no 360-24152-00-00 picture no 12 on my parts cat or poss no 11 on others

Thanks markymark (uk) my bike has just started to cause a slight sweat from overflow tube, so i'm going to replace needle valve set and reset float, bike has only covered 2,500 miles from new, 1996 model imported new too united kingdom in 1999


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TW669
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#10 Feb 26, 2014
I´m in need of the o-ring in post #9. Anyone knows a part number.
Typical situation, i had to clean the carb. I took extra care not losing any of all those small parts and in the end the o-ring was missing. :(
I tried a generic o-ring but it does not fit correctly, looks like the Yam o-ring is kinda special


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GaryL
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#11 Feb 28, 2014
TW669 said:
I´m in need of the o-ring in post #9. Anyone knows a part number.
Typical situation, i had to clean the carb. I took extra care not losing any of all those small parts and in the end the o-ring was missing. :(
I tried a generic o-ring but it does not fit correctly, looks like the Yam o-ring is kinda special
Typical that some little part goes missing and likely the previous owner never put it back. I doubt you can order this washer/seal. There is no such seal on the schematics that I can find. I had a bag full of various O rings and found one that fits and works perfect. You could probably make a seal out of cork or some other gasket material.

I did miss this thread because it is mis named. These are TK carbs and not Mikuni.

GaryL


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elime
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#12 Feb 28, 2014 (Edited)
I am pretty sure I used 2-106 V75B for the o-ring. It was a little bit thick so I thinned it using some fine emery paper. As long as the float bowl has to compress it a little bit all is fine.

If it wasn't the 2-106, then it was the 2-108 o-ring.

P2281272.JPG P2281273.JPG

If you are desperate for one PM me your address.
 

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;) This may help , I had same issue , I ended up doing the same as elime, and it’s been ok , to the best of my knowledge, remember the old slide carb is not that good generally speaking , plenty posts regarding set up , I also settled for #118 main jet #116 was better than standard #114 and #120 made no difference top end #42 pilot I think Is in now from a #40 it’s for a xt350 same style carb , and shimmed needle for mid range ( that’s trial / error sorting that out , everything was replaced with oem parts except slide because it’s no longer supplied
 

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Good ol Tony (Elime) at the bottom offering to send one his way. I liked that part the best. (y) (y) (y)
 

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I believe it depends on the year of the bike. My '96 had one in the carb and it only had 580 miles on it when I bought it last year. Was a stock bike. Ended up finding the correct metric washer at O-ring store LLC Not certain, but think they were the Japanese JIS P series Buna-N 70 durometer o-rings. I can take a look at the size that fits correctly if you want.

JIS P Series O-Rings In Stock and Online
 

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Discussion Starter #8
I do believe it is metric based on the dimensions of the pocket. 1.88mm deep x 9.5mm id. I grabbed a metric o-ring kit and 2mm wide x 5 mm id is a nice fit and will give a little crush to seal. I picked up this 95 tw with 960 miles. Looks like a collector bike. Fork seals were bad, front pads were oil soaked so replaced those already. The bike started and ran fine as previous owner stored with ethanol free Premium unleaded with stabilizer and ran it annually. I have two "93" models set up for trail riding. Not thinking this one is going to see much dirt.
 
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