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Cdi yellow wire

11607 Views 20 Replies 6 Participants Last post by  operose
Hello:

I ordered and received a cdi for my 1995 tw from partzilla. I seem to have an extra yellow wire. I taped over the end of the yellow wire, held my breath and 260$ cdi but the bike fired up and ran nicely. All the symptoms of idling fine but an inability to rev up appear to be gone.

Does anyone have any concerns leaving that wire disconnected? I guess the damage would have been done by now?

Thanks for any comments.

Grant
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88 Tw200: Purchased about two months ago. Been sitting for two weeks with electrical problems. Not cool.



While chasing down what seems to be a fried ignition coil assembly I found a few bare wires and a couple of poor connections. I repaired what I found and still had no spark. I checked all relays, switches, connections (except inside the case) and I'm starting to think it is a bad cdi as well. But I'm hopeful it's just a bad coil.



New ignition coil assembly is on it's way. Bought a cheap one just to check. 10 dollars new off ebay. Local dealer wanted 99 dollars.



So while I'm checking everything I notice I have a yellow wire loose in my loom and it shows in my diagram that it should be going into the cdi. But my cdi does not have a yellow wire coming out of it. The wire has a factory looking connector and the diagram shows it should have the connector. I pulled the sheath back on the cdi and nope, no yellow coming out.



What's the deal? Do I have a previously replaced cdi? The wrong cdi? Do I need the yellow to be connected? It shows it going to the magneto on the diagram.



Some photos:

Wiring Diagram





CDI (showing yellow wire from case)





Fried Coil









Any comments, suggestions, or ideas? Much appreciated.
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According to the vin its an 88. Frame has a mfr date of 10/87. Could it be an early 88 with leftover parts? More likely replaced by a previous owner with the wrong one?



Getting a reading of 50 ohms through the brown and yellow wires coming from the case.



Reckon i'll start searching for cdi's while I wait for the coil. Ill post up when I have more info.



Thanks.
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I'd swap but I wouldn't trade not knowing for sure if mine functions properly.



So I've got the 2jx, but I need the 2yg?



The new ignition coil did not make any difference. Still no spark.



I hate to dump money into parts that I'm not sure will correct the no-spark issue. Especially a $260 part, which is a fourth of what I paid for the bike.



But this is the cdi part number: 2YG-85540-M0-00 with the yellow wire?



Thanks.
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No love for the tdub. New CDI w/ the yellow wire. New ignition coil. New plug. New battery. By-passed stand switch. Repaired several bad connections. Still no freaking spark. WTH?



Can't do the timing light test cause the dang thing won't run. Won't roll start.



I hate to send it to the shop but I'm about to kick it over, pour gas on it and light a match.



Can the clutch switch be by-passed? That's the only thing I can think of that I haven't done yet. But if the bike is in neutral the schematic shows the clutch switch is out of the loop and should fire either way. I've gone through the loom with a meter.



I've got compression. I'm almost positive the carb is fine. Bowls fill and overflow into airbox if overfilled. I've used starter fluid but if I got no spark no amount of ether will make it start.



If no other ideas then I reckon she goes to the shop and I let my mechanic pull his hair out for a bit. Probably something simple I'm totally overlooking. Hope so.



I'll update when I know more.
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Not sure what the original problem was but all new parts including a stator and she's back in action. The stator was checking out electrically. But after removing the case it had visable evidence of possible failure. Several melted sections. The cdi that came on the bike when purchased was in fact the wrong cdi. Don't know if that fried the stator or vice versa. She's all buttoned up and back in action.



Thanks for the suggestions.
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