[bangkokbonk]

My bike is running like shit!!

It is a frankenstien of a motor from one bike and a frame and parts from others! No idea of the year of the engine as its a Jappanese import into thailand and vin numbers dont exist.

My problem is the wiring harness is home made and the CDI is the wrong type (Kawasaki!) causing all sorts of quirky things, lights flashing engine running badly.

I have decided to purchase a new wire assembly and CDI. How do i know wich one to buy. I understand there are three types of CDI's from looking at the yamaha site. (2001-2011) 5LB-85540-01-00, (1998-2000)2YG-85540-10-00, and (1988-1997) 2YG-85540-M0-00???????? is this correct?

My engine number number is 2JL-01-1687-37.

My question is: does anyone know what year this engine is and the part number for cdi and wiring harness? Can i use wiring harness and cdi from a different year? will this work with the starter motor etc? I have seen a bike on ebay being broken and it has a wiring loom and CDI. it is a 2007 TW200.



Thanks

Dave

 

[kj7687]

I wish I could help you. I hate to suggest this lol, but if worst comes to worst, you could always buy one of each, and sell the wrong one (I thought there were only two?).

 

[lizrdbrth]

Show us more detail of your engine, particularly the carb, which would narrow down the possibilities a bit. Does the carb drive from the left or the right?



Other clues as follows:



Do the front turn signals have 2 wires or 3?



Do the headlights come on when the key is in the "on" position, or only once the bike is running?



Front brake: disc, or drum?



Turn signal switch, push to cancel? How many wires exit the start/kill switch housing?



Where is the voltage regulator mounted? Is it lengthwise to the frame, or perpendicular?



How many wires exit the left crank case? Is there a single bundle, or two? How many wires and of what colors?

 

[bangkokbonk]

Show us more detail of your engine, particularly the carb, which would narrow down the possibilities a bit.

THANKS FOR THE REPLY, I AM OVERSEAS AT THE MOMENT SO CANNOT SEE THE BIKE I AM JUST GOING ON PHOTO'S AND MEMORY.



Does the carb drive from the left or the right? THE CABLE COMES IN FROM THE LEFT. IT IS THE NEWER TYPE CARB WITH THE PLASTIC CAP



Other clues as follows:



Do the front turn signals have 2 wires or 3?TWO WIRES, BUT A HOME MADE HARNESS AND NON STANDARD INDICATORS!



Do the headlights come on when the key is in the "on" position, or only once the bike is running?ONLY WHEN THE ENGINE IS RUNNING BECAUSE IT HAS HAD A BATTERY LESSER INSTALLED FOR THE HOLLOW MOD



Front brake: disc, or drum?DISK



Turn signal switch, push to cancel? How many wires exit the start/kill switch housing?NEED TO BUY THE CONTROLLS



Where is the voltage regulator mounted? Is it lengthwise to the frame, or perpendicular?AGAIN NON STANDARD MOUNTING DUE TO HOLLOW MOD



How many wires exit the left crank case? Is there a single bundle, or two? How many wires and of what colors?FOUR FROM MEMORY AS I HAVE NO PHOTOS



I THINK I AM A BIT OUT OF MY DEPTH WITH THE WIRING SO MAY JUST HAND IT TO A MECHANIC TO ORDER AND INSTALL WIRING HARNESS AND SAVE ME THE COST OF ORDERING THE WRONG ONE!! IT WOULD BE GOOD TO KNOW THE YEAR, BUT AS LONG AS IT RUNS.



THANKS FOR YOUR HELP SORRY MY ANSWERS WERE SO VAUGE. THE BIKES GOT A MESSY HISTORY OF LOST/STOLEN PARTS AND NO VIN TO INDICATE YEAR!!

 

[BBMS]

I would love to see a photo of the entire bike. It looks as though it has an interesting paint scheme.

 

[lizrdbrth]

You have all the other equipment like the disc brake and late model carb so maybe you'll get lucky and find the late-model electricals under the engine side cover. If you decide to tackle it yourself let us know.



Buying some other guy's basket of snakes can be a real hassle, but I'm sure it can be sorted out. Good luck.



From here the bike at least LOOKS good.

 

[bangkokbonk]

You have all the other equipment like the disc brake and late model carb so maybe you'll get lucky and find the late-model electricals under the engine side cover. If you decide to tackle it yourself let us know.



Buying some other guy's basket of snakes can be a real hassle, but I'm sure it can be sorted out. Good luck.



From here the bike at least LOOKS good.

Cheers mate,

Decided to get the mechanic to pick it up while i am away. I have spent to long on this project and need to get some riding time in! Thanks for the input and yes hopfully it's the later model.

 

[bangkokbonk]

I would love to see a photo of the entire bike. It looks as though it has an interesting paint scheme.

here you go

It's Changed a bit since these photo's i decided to go with conventional motocross type aero bars instead. and added a mudguard. Have some other small cosmetic plans too once the engine is running well.

 

[bangkokbonk]

You have all the other equipment like the disc brake and late model carb so maybe you'll get lucky and find the late-model electricals under the engine side cover. If you decide to tackle it yourself let us know.



Buying some other guy's basket of snakes can be a real hassle, but I'm sure it can be sorted out. Good luck.



From here the bike at least LOOKS good.

Living in rural Thailand is almost impossible to find trained mechanics, even in Bangkok. I just hired another mechanic to try and sort out my wiring and order the correct harness and CDI. He was unable to do it like the others before him, so the task has fallen to me after my 5th mechanic (first mechanic dissasembled my bike and gave it back in bits saying he couldnt do it, discovered a few parts missing!!)

I Have been doing some further investigation to try to find out what year my engine is so that i can put back standard wiring on it. Currently wrong CDI, no starter motor and lights not working properly. Home made harness (origional cut up by last mechanic!!.)

I contacted Yamaha, they told me My frame is a 1987.

https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-.../AAAAAAAAAUQ/tCNXkjj0DyA/FRAME%2520NUMBER.jpg

The engine is not the origional and the number looks like it has been tampered with (see photo post above.)



They have no record of my number. The first three numbers 2JL look like they where factory stamped but that indicates an engine somwhere from 87-99 according to list they sent bellow. But i am unsure if they are right, due to the number of stator wires and the Carb.

I need to narow down what year the engine is so i can order the parts and fix this bike myself.

Is there anyway of knowing wich year the carb was produced after? Assuming origional. The carb has the initials TK on it. See photo's

Also i have looked at the wiring coming out of the engine to try and narrow it down and belive by the number of wires it may be a post 2001. i understand from LIZRDBRTH and QUERTY'S POSTS that the wiring from 2001 changed to different stator producing more power. This i assume had more wires than the 87 to 2000 models. The manual shows more wires on post 2001. What is confusing is there have been many part# changes to stator and rotor from 87-2000 but no updated manuals showing differences. My colour codes dont match the manual.



I have 7 wires exiting the engine casing. Am i right in thinking that only matches post 2001 bikes?? is this correct??

3 white wires (connected, possibly to the wrong place)

1 Blue and white stripe (connected, possibly to the wrong place)

1 Red and white stripe (connected, possibly to the wrong place)

1 brown Not connected

1 Green Not connect

MY QUESTIONS ARE:

1 Can anyone help narow down the year of my engine looking at carb and Stator wires? (I am working overseas not home untill end of the month to open it for more photos')



2 Is there any other way to identify engine year? I saw many parts changes with new Part# on the yamaha parts site, but the drawings stay the same.



3 If i bought a post 2001, say from a complete bike a 2004 or 2007 complete electrical assembly. Everything from stator, Stator cover( i read on here you need the left engine cover too!), rotor, cdi, harness, switches, relays, coils, the whole lot. would it fit in any year? 1987-2012? Would a post 2001 rotor bolt onto any year engine? This seems the easyest way for me. not the cheapest but i want to make sure i get it working!!

Plug and play is more my capabilities!

 

[qwerty]

Wires exiting the side cover:

3 white wires would indicate 2001 and later. These go to the rectifier. the '87 has white and yellow wires between the stator and rectifier.

White with red stripe (w/r) and white with blue stripe (w/l) would indicate 2001 and later. These go to the CDI box.

There should also be a black with white stripe (b/w) and green with yellow stripe (g/y), which I imagine you will find cut off inside the cover. If so, you have an '01 or newer stator.



These also go to the CDI box. Check and see if the wires from the CDI box are w/r, w/l, b/w, and g/y. If so, you have a '01+ CDI box. If the CDI stator-to-box wires are white, green, red, and brown, you have an '87 CDI box.



Sky blue wire is neutral indicator switch, every year.



Looks like an '01+ carb. I'm thinking '01+ engine poorly adapted to an early harness. I'd pull the left engine cover and see what wires actually go to the stator. I expect the brown wire in your pic is connected to either the b/w or g/y under the cover. If the wires at the stator are w/r, w/l, b/w, and g/y, you have the preferred late model. Update the bike wiring and bits to match.



If the wires at the stator are w, g, r, and br, you have an early stator poorly adapted to a late model harness. In that case, I'd look to updating the engine bits to match the late harness.



When you get home, chase each wire and post up what color wire is connected to what on each end.



Just out of curiousity, have you ever seen this bike run? Don't worry, with patience we can get it going.

 

[bangkokbonk]

Wires exiting the side cover:

3 white wires would indicate 2001 and later. These go to the rectifier. the '87 has white and yellow wires between the stator and rectifier.

White with red stripe (w/r) and white with blue stripe (w/l) would indicate 2001 and later. These go to the CDI box.

There should also be a black with white stripe (b/w) and green with yellow stripe (g/y), which I imagine you will find cut off inside the cover. If so, you have an '01 or newer stator.



These also go to the CDI box. Check and see if the wires from the CDI box are w/r, w/l, b/w, and g/y. If so, you have a '01+ CDI box. If the CDI stator-to-box wires are white, green, red, and brown, you have an '87 CDI box.



Sky blue wire is neutral indicator switch, every year.



Looks like an '01+ carb. I'm thinking '01+ engine poorly adapted to an early harness. I'd pull the left engine cover and see what wires actually go to the stator. I expect the brown wire in your pic is connected to either the b/w or g/y under the cover. If the wires at the stator are w/r, w/l, b/w, and g/y, you have the preferred late model. Update the bike wiring and bits to match.



If the wires at the stator are w, g, r, and br, you have an early stator poorly adapted to a late model harness. In that case, I'd look to updating the engine bits to match the late harness.



When you get home, chase each wire and post up what color wire is connected to what on each end.



Just out of curiousity, have you ever seen this bike run? Don't worry, with patience we can get it going.

Hi Qwerty

Thanks for the very valuable information. I will pull the cover of when i get home and investigate the wiring at the stator. unfortunataly i dont have a CDI. The CDI being used is a Kawasaki CDI. the bike runs, but very poorly at idle. The lights are flashing high and low and there is no electric start conected, indicators are switched under the seat!!!

I need to start over with at least a CDI and wire harness. This one is home made.



'Just out of curiousity, have you ever seen this bike run?'

My GF bought me the bike as a project to do when i was away. she saw it running as a stock bike. It is the gold bike pictured below.



It has an interesting history with mechanics!! First mechanic stripped it down for me to fabricate the grab rail and so i could get it resprayed. He was meant to re assemble it with custom parts i bought, but after stripping it down he decided he didnt want to. i got a few boxes of bits back, some parts missing i later discovered!!

since then each mechanic has struggled and made things worse somtimes. The last mechanic i had insisted the wire loom and CDI i got back from the first mechanic were not form a tw200 (stolen by first mech?), but tw's are only privatly imported in thailand so mechanics are outside there comfort zone. He said he would make a new one and installed the kawasaki CDI. The new one has just basic engine running and indicators nothing else. So i am doing what i can now myself with the help of this forum. I am almost there!! thanks for words of encouragment and tech knowhow. it will be more satisfying to finish it myself anyway. I have the CDI i got back from first mech, but it has now wires on it just a conector? will take a photo.





Anyway i am rambling so i will take a look under the cover when i get back or get a mech to pop over and take cover of for me so gf can take a pic.



Cheers

Dave



before it was raped!

 

[lizrdbrth]

If the CDI has "no wires on it and only a connector" it is likely the post-'01 CDI.



I'll try to dig up a pic of one.

 

[bangkokbonk]

If the CDI has "no wires on it and only a connector" it is likely the post-'01 CDI.



I'll try to dig up a pic of one.

Thanks Lizrdbrth

I couldnt see any numbers on it. Here is a photo of my unknown CDI after the guy hacked up my wiring.

I also have another qyuestion!! If i found a complete electrical system from and older bike would it fit mine? Assuming mine is a post 2001 could i fit say a 2000 system like this one on ebay:



http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=250860035855



would the stator from a 2000 work with a later rotar from say a 2003 engine?

I am thinking of going the whole hog and trying to find a set from a whole bike rather than bit by bit. At least it will be easy to install and know the parts match. If i do this is it esential to get the right year. Set include engine left side cover for stator.



Thanks



Dave

 

[lizrdbrth]

Later bikes have 3 phase alternators, so you'd need the rotor as well. Otherwise that eBay setup appears to be complete, and a pretty good deal provided that the CDI itself is good. I'd contact the seller and see if he'll swap the starter for the rotor, if he has it.

.



The conversion is actually quite easily done, but the hollow mod will usually have some monkey buisiness involved due to the relocated components.



It's difficult to tell from here but your CDI looks suspiciously similar to the late TW unit. You should probably verify whether that is so first. Let's not fix what ain't broke.



It should have an 8 pin connector. Only seven positions are used.



Wire colors at CDI are:



OR, BLK/RD, BLU/YEL, GRN/WHT, WHT/BLU, WHT/RD, BLK.



If this looks right there's a good chance that all you'll need is a late harness, provided all the stuff under the left engine cover is the later stuff.

 

[qwerty]

Before you waste money on anything else let's first find out what you have. Patience has it's own reward.



Ditch the Cowwasucki CDI. It's a stop-gap and probably impossible to make work right.



Get the side cover off and let's get a positive identification of the magneto (rotor and stator). Then get whatever else is needed to match. The magneto is the most expensive part.



There should be a number on the CDI box we can match up. The one in the picture sure looks like a late model unit. Maybe all it will take is a late model harness to hook everything up correctly, after whatever butchering suffered by the stator has been corrected.



You can get a pretty good idea of parts interchange potential by opening a window for each year in question with the parts lookup at stadiumyamaha.com. Party much '01 to current is interchangeable, but '00 and early doesn't interchange much with '01 to current.

 

[bangkokbonk]

Before you waste money on anything else let's first find out what you have. Patience has it's own reward.



Ditch the Cowwasucki CDI. It's a stop-gap and probably impossible to make work right.



Get the side cover off and let's get a positive identification of the magneto (rotor and stator). Then get whatever else is needed to match. The magneto is the most expensive part.



There should be a number on the CDI box we can match up. The one in the picture sure looks like a late model unit. Maybe all it will take is a late model harness to hook everything up correctly, after whatever butchering suffered by the stator has been corrected.



You can get a pretty good idea of parts interchange potential by opening a window for each year in question with the parts lookup at stadiumyamaha.com. Party much '01 to current is interchangeable, but '00 and early doesn't interchange much with '01 to current.

Querty,

Your right i should wait, and not throw good money after bad. i'll try getting some photo's sent to me so we can find out exactaly whats under the cover. Thanks for the link will take a look at that

Cheers

Dave

 

[bangkokbonk]

I managed to get some photo's sent to me last night with the Engine cover off. I found some numbers for the Stator, Rotor and CDI. I have been doing some searching on stadiumyamaha.com for part numbers. The results where quite interesting. As was the photo of my main engine casing behind the cover!



CDI first:

[Lizrdbrth] 'It should have an 8 pin connector' As you suspected It has the 8 pin connector mentioned. post 2001?

According to the parts list there apear to be three different part numbers for the different years:

(2001-2011) 5LB-85540-01-00, (1998-2000)2YG-85540-10-00, and (1997-1987) 2YG-85540-M0-00



My CDI has the number 5LB-00161 on it, So i assume the 5LB prefix makes it a 2001-2012? see photo's below.

STATOR and WIRES: (photos below)

The stator has me confused, not difficult LOL

[qwerty]'If the wires at the stator are w, g, r, and br, you have an early stator poorly adapted to a late model harness.'

'3 white wires would indicate 2001 and later.' I have W,G,R AND Br (late model) and 3 white wires (new model)



I saw in the main manual on pages 274 and 275 there are two different wire diagrames. Both have the the R,Br,G and W wires but One diagram shows 3 white wires and the other shows a Black yellow and white configuration. The one showing the three white wires wich mine has also shows an extra Yellow wire. i dont have the yellow wire!!! realy confusing!



The Stator has 02N and 4WP Stamped on it.

As with the CDI, there apear to be 3 different part numbers for the different years of the Stator:

(2001-2011) 4WP-85510-10-00, (1988-2000)2YG-81410-M0-00, and (1987) 2JX-81410-M1-00

So 4WP matches new model rotor, wich would match it with possible new CDI above. The bike was fully functional before it was stripped by the mechanic then rewired by the next mech! I have also added a photo i took when he gave me the bits back showing the origional harness wich i assumed would just plug back in. What a mess the mech said it wouldnt plug in but who knows! he made many other mistakes i had to fix.

Rotor: (See photo below.)

All i could find out about the rotor was a number on it F5BT 00 and 15W below that.

The parts catalogue Shows The same year changes as the stator wich is logical, 3 types changing the same years as the stator

(2001-2011),(1988-2000) and (1987) 2001-2012 type has part# 5BT-8550-01-00

So does that mean a 2001-2012 for Stator, rotor and CDI. The confusing thing is the wire colours?

Also on the main motor housing i noticed a nasty hole!! Looks like the engine has had a serious problem in it's past.



I think i read in the manual the stator housing is meant to be full of oil? or is the whole in the photo causing this? Do you think the whole is a problem??!! or from an old issue that wont affect the engine now its running?

Any help would be apprechiated.

before mech cut up harness

 

[bangkokbonk]

I have just seen in the newer supplement the wiring diagram on the last page. it shows the same colours as my stator. I was not looking at the colours in the symbols. just the colours on the lines. I think i was missreading the diagram! The symbols inside the AC magneto square represent conectors and the lines represent the wires harnes correct? Therefore they match my stator wires before they conect to the harness and conect to different colour wires on the harness?. I think that is what qwerty and lizbrth where explaining to me in the first place? Not used to reading wire diagrams but i think i get it now. lol

 

[qwerty]

First off, the hole in the case under the rotor is supposed to be there.



Second, it does sound as if your rotor, stator, and CDI are all the 2001+ parts. That is good.



Third, you are correct that the little boxes represent the plugs.



The wire colors do change at the plugs coming from the stator to coming from the CDI: R to W/R, W to W/L, Br to B/R, and G to G/W. I apologize for forgetting to mention that. Old age, doncha know.

You'll need the plug that goes to the CDI if that has been hacked off and the harness wired to the cowasucki CDI.



The "5LB", "5BT", and "4WP" parts of the part number tell for what bike the parts were originally designed. The 5-digit sequence that follows designates the actual type of part, all rotors have the same 5-digit sequence, all stators have the same 5-digit sequence, etc. the final 2-digit sequences indicate revisions over the life of the model, but are not necessarily interchangeable. Yamaha uses another system for parts used on a variety of models, such as hardware and levers.



By the way, that chubby tank fits the look of the bike well. The flames are simply elegant.

 

[bangkokbonk]

First off, the hole in the case under the rotor is supposed to be there.



Second, it does sound as if your rotor, stator, and CDI are all the 2001+ parts. That is good.



Third, you are correct that the little boxes represent the plugs.



The wire colors do change at the plugs coming from the stator to coming from the CDI: R to W/R, W to W/L, Br to B/R, and G to G/W. I apologize for forgetting to mention that. Old age, doncha know.

You'll need the plug that goes to the CDI if that has been hacked off and the harness wired to the cowasucki CDI.



The "5LB", "5BT", and "4WP" parts of the part number tell for what bike the parts were originally designed. The 5-digit sequence that follows designates the actual type of part, all rotors have the same 5-digit sequence, all stators have the same 5-digit sequence, etc. the final 2-digit sequences indicate revisions over the life of the model, but are not necessarily interchangeable. Yamaha uses another system for parts used on a variety of models, such as hardware and levers.



By the way, that chubby tank fits the look of the bike well. The flames are simply elegant.

Great!!!

All post 2001 parts. It's re-ashuring to know my interpretation of the first part of the part numbers was correct. Now i know what the rest represents, i wasnt sure. I had initialy thought it was a 1987 engine.

I think i can go ahead and order a +2001 wire harness and add a plug to the rotor and give it a bash!. I think i have a grip of the wiring diagram now.

Thanks to both lizrdbrth and yourself for all the input! Great info as allways.

Nice to know that hole is meant to be there!! it looked ugly!

Cheers

Dave