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Discussion Starter #1
Hello Guys,

I have a TW 200 1997 ^^
My father would like to mount the disc brake on the front, he already has everything, just need to dismount the front and mount it again (we purchased a whole new front so we will completely replace the front part except for the handlebar)

My question is: since I am very sensitive to any little discrepancy (I work for a design company and I am the one that actually check the finished look of a product so You can imagine how my eyes spot every minimum difference in objects that are supposed to be symmetrical when they leave the factory for the pre-production)
The handlebar how can I be sure that is again centered in both left/right distance and "pivot" position? As You can see the handlebar of the TW has another little handle right on top, under this little handle there are 4 screws (2 per side) that blocks the whole handlebar, how can I also be sure to match again the position of this little handlebar relative to the position of the screws under?

How can I be sure that that position will be again as fabric stock?
Really my job is killing me for this, since my eyes will always fall there and my arms will always remind me of the bike being not perfectly centered, I am just like this

Any suggestion?
 

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Does this help?

P1140244.JPG

What is going to drive you really crazy is if your front wheel and handle bars don't make a perfect right angle. Ninety degrees exactly. Because if it is only 89 degrees your eye will see it. Your eye will be attracted to it. You won't be able to look away. It will be a curse!!!! I know !!!! Believe me I really know.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Does this help?

View attachment 100361

What is going to drive you really crazy is if your front wheel and handle bars don't make a perfect right angle. Ninety degrees exactly. Because if it is only 89 degrees your eye will see it. Your eye will be attracted to it. You won't be able to look away. It will be a curse!!!! I know !!!! Believe me I really know.
How do You suggest me to perfectly align?
 

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Your bike is 10 years old. Unless it has zero miles on it, it is unlikely that the handlebar is in the stock position. And besides, there really is no correct stock position. It just depends on where the dealer flunky happened to install them. If you are comfortable with the current position of the bars, make a small scribe mark on both the handlebar and the clamp so that you can replace them in the same position.

My other suggestion is to keep your eyes up and on the road ahead of you, and not down looking at your bars :D.

p.s. Another suggestion to keep your mind off your handlebars is to look at your footpegs, they are likely not lined up with each other ;). Don't look, don't look, don't look - I told you not to look. . . . . . . . . .
 

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I could be remembering wrong and I threw away my stock bars, but isnt there a small punch mark to line up with the clamp slot? Im also gonna have to agree with brian although he got one thing wrong.... a 97 is 20 years old not 10, but I doubt everything is still in its original spot.
 

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I forgot. dont forget the electrics arent gonna hook up without you fixing them. Also youre gonna have to use the new style throttle and switches on the right side. heres the critical tid bit you will need. You're gonna want to use the new throttle housing with the old cables and the old throttle tube. The old carb has a different cable ratio than the cv carb and it wont work for shit if you try and hook up a new style throttle tube to the old style carb. If you run into any more stumbling block let me know. I recently did this and I wanted to not be able to tell it was a swap so it all looks stock.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
I forgot. dont forget the electrics arent gonna hook up without you fixing them. Also youre gonna have to use the new style throttle and switches on the right side. heres the critical tid bit you will need. You're gonna want to use the new throttle housing with the old cables and the old throttle tube. The old carb has a different cable ratio than the cv carb and it wont work for shit if you try and hook up a new style throttle tube to the old style carb. If you run into any more stumbling block let me know. I recently did this and I wanted to not be able to tell it was a swap so it all looks stock.
Why I would need a new throttle???
 

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http://tw200forum.com/forum/performance-customization/1980-disc-brake-conversion.html - post two - “Disc brake conversion requires lower left fork leg ( fork tubes and right fork leg are all the same) front wheel with disc, master cylinder with hose, splicing of brake light switch wires (old style plug soldered to new style switch) and ideally the newer kill/starter switch. Your starter button will end up pointing downward with the old style.” - lizrdbrth

http://tw200forum.com/forum/technical-help/7643-disc-brake-conversion.html - post two - “in terms of parts you'll need the following: Left lower fork leg (rights are all the same, earlier is better cuz it some still had drain plugs). Caliper
Front wheel w/disc.
Master cylinder and brake hose.

Starter/kill switch from post-'01 TW (optional). If you use your existing switches the starter button will be pointing toward the ground due to the master cylinder and throttle cable locations. More of an inconvenience than it is a complete nuisance, but worth doing.

You'll need to splice the plugs from your early model brake switch onto the master cylinder brake switch because the later switches are a larger diameter.” - lizrdbrth




So – the implication is that when you try to use the old throttle assembly with the new brake gear, either it all gets in the way, or you’ll end up with most of the switch gear pointing to the ground. On the post 2001 bikes the cable guides lead from the top, on pre 2001 they come out from the front.

What vanillagorilla1 is saying, is that in addition to this, if you use the new throttle type with the new throttle tube, the newer tube it messes up the gearing for the cables to the older style carb – so – newer throttle, older tube and you’ll be fine ……
 

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Place the bare bars on a piece of cardboard and measure end to end. Now mark the exact middle of that measurement and use a carpenters square. Mark the middle on the bars where the caps hold them in place. Now when you attach the bars you have a mid point to measure to each cap. After market bars such as the Pro Taper SE ATV High bars many here like come with these and other markings already on them. Handle bars are a very personal item but the stock ones on the TW are the first thing I would change after replacing the stock death wing tire. Shorter riders might be OK with the stock bars but 5' 9" and above you will really like bars that can allow you to stand on the pegs. You just have to keep in mind there is just so much slack in the cables so you can't go too high with bars and risers. The Pro Tapers fit perfect.

GaryL
 

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OK — so the throttle tubes on the old style come out of the front, and turn left — straight into conflict with the brake reservoir

So — you rotate the throttle through 90 degrees towards you to avoid the reservoir — now your switch gear (which is built into the throttle housing) is pointing near enough backwards

On the newer throttle, the tubes come out of the top and turn left, and the switch gear is on an independent clamp


new front.JPG . old rear.JPG


Yes, you could simply get the new style switch gear and duplicate the switches, but that’s what we call a “bodge job” — you’d have two sets of switches, one of which will be reversed on the throttle


old front.JPG


If you’ve gone to the trouble and expense of getting new forks, a new wheel, a new disc, calliper, pads, and a new reservoir and hose kit, why skimp on the final part and “bodge” the rest ?

However, it’s your bike, and you can do what you want with it. If you buy the new switch gear clamp it will fit onto the bars, and if you decide at a later date to add the new throttle assembly then nothing will be wasted ……
 

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Im referring to throttle tube as in the white plastic part that spins on the bar that the grip goes on. the new housing you need is just the part that actually clamps to the bar and use the old cables and sheathing.
 

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You know the bit you grip and twist – it’s about 5 inches long – well, that comes in a rubber sleeve, and you need to keep it, and the white hard plastic bit underneath it, or your older style carb will be out of whack

The metal bit of the throttle that clamps onto the bars – you need the newer version – or you’ll have problems clearing the reservoir, or your switches will be pointing backwards

The switch gear – you need the new style – because there are no switches built into the newer throttle (metal) assembly - (refer to post #13)
 

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Discussion Starter #18
You know the bit you grip and twist – it’s about 5 inches long – well, that comes in a rubber sleeve, and you need to keep it, and the white hard plastic bit underneath it, or your older style carb will be out of whack

The metal bit of the throttle that clamps onto the bars – you need the newer version – or you’ll have problems clearing the reservoir, or your switches will be pointing backwards

The switch gear – you need the new style – because there are no switches built into the newer throttle (metal) assembly - (refer to post #13)
My english is not very good as You can imagine haha
But I am having some problems understanding this
Baiscally You says (I already saw online a new power switch button and tomorrow I will go to purchase it) that I need the new throttle too because otherwise I will have problem to clean the oil reservoir?
 

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You says that I need the new throttle too because otherwise I will have problem to clean the oil reservoir?
Yes

I already saw online a new power switch button and tomorrow I will go to purchase it
Yes




NEW crop new.jpg


OLD crop old.jpg


You need the parts in Green

You DO NOT need the parts in Red

The rubber / plastic throttle part you hold in your hand (5 inches long) is different – you must put the old one into the new

So parts together as shown A + D


new text.jpg - old text.jpg
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Yes



Yes




NEWView attachment 100625


OLDView attachment 100633


You need the parts in Green

You DO NOT need the parts in Red

The rubber / plastic throttle part you hold in your hand (5 inches long) is different – you must put the old one into the new

So parts together as shown A + D


View attachment 100641 - View attachment 100649
ùThank You for being soooooo gentle with me ^^
What happen if I don't use the new Throttle? The old throttle is a "one piece" with the kill switch?
Will this works? (of course I will change the rubber part with mine)
http://www.motoricambi39.it/shop/articolo.asp?iid=21566&txt=YAMAHA TW 125 200 ACCELERATORE + CAVO
 
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