[n2o2diver]

My 2005 TW has 4500 miles on it and the chain is about shot. I'm at #8 on the adjuster and decided to go ahead and change out the chain and sprockets. I went with stock replacement sprockets (14/50) and an RK 428 O-Ring chain.



I took some photos as I went. Hope this helps someone out. It is a pretty straight forward task, just take your time. You are going to remove the side cover which means draining all the oil so plan on doing this at your next oil change cycle.



Here is the excellent oil change guide.





I started by draining the oil. Oil drain plug 19mm.

It was really windy today so I used a piece of cardboard to keep the draining oil from blowing everywhere.

Next I removed the Oil Filter Cover, 2 - 8mm bolts and 1 - #5 Allen

When you get the cover off the short bolt is on the left and the longest on the right.

The lower Allen bolt has a o-ring behind it, be careful it doesn't fall out and replace if necessary.

Make sure your new oil filter has these 4 holes. There are bad filters out there with out them and you will RUIN your motor from lack of oil flow.

I put in the new filter and replaced the Oil Filter Cover O-ring as well as the smaller Allen bolt O-ring during this change. Then re installed the cover.







Next I removed the Left foot peg 17mm.

Next remove the shift lever and skid plate each has 1 - 10mm bolt.

I used a screw driver to spread the shift lever a little and it came right off.

 

[n2o2diver]

Now remove the left side cover. I tried to clean all around it first, I probably should have given the bike a good wash and let it dry first.



There are 10 - 8mm bolts, the wrench in the picture is for illustration, I ended up using a small 1/4" drive 10mm ratchet, a larger one won't fit into some of the spots.

As I removed the bolts I pushed them into a piece of cardboard so I wouldn't mix them up, some are longer than others.

I used a zip tie to hang the cover out of the way and not put stress on the wires.

Next I removed the chain guard and removed the master link. Pay attention to way the master link is on the chain. The closed part goes to the front in the direction of rotation.

With the chain removed I now remove the counter shaft sprocket. There are 2 - 8mm screws holding the keeper to the sprocket.

 

[n2o2diver]

There are two seals under the side cover and it is recommended that you change them while you are in here. Installing an O-ring chain means you might not have to take this off for another 20K miles so might as well change them now while you have it all apart.



I cleaned up the area as best I could then used a pick to get out the old seal and replace them with new ones. Make sure you put even pressure around the shaft seal so it goes in straight. A piece of pipe or a large socket the same diameter of the seal makes it very easy.







Inner Seal

Outer Seal

With the new seals in, I then installed the new sprocket and used new 8mm bolts in the keeper. You can see the old sprocket is pretty worn compared to the new one.

 

[n2o2diver]

With the front side done I next put the bike on the stand and my neighbor helped out here. The wind was really kicking so he held the bike on the stand while I removed the tire and changed out the back sprocket.

It is pretty straight forward. The back tire has a 22mm nut on the right side and the axle is a 19mm. After removing the nut, undo the brake line wing nut and then pull out the axle and slide the rim aft. Take note of the wheel spacers as they may fall out at this point.







Next I used a screw driver to flatten the tabs on the sprocket bolts.

Remove the bolts, you have to hold the nuts on the backside with a 14mm wrench and I used a 14mm ratchet on top to remove the bolts. Install new locking tabs, replace all the bolts then bend the new tabs.



The old rear sprocket is worn but not as bad as the front was. Remember you can't see the front without removing the cover. So if your rear is worn you can count on the front being bad as well.

 

[n2o2diver]

At this point I was getting pressed for time. Sun was setting and GF had plans and was letting me know to pick up the pace.



I don't have any pictures of the reassembly but I figure if you got it all apart it is pretty easy to put back together.



Re install the rear tire, don't forget the brake rod. Put the new chain on. Make sure you put the master link on the new chain correctly. Adjust the chain tension in accordance with the manual. If you haven't done so go down load the manual and supplement. I had mine printed and bound and used it for reading in the house. I print out the pages I need for a particular task as they tend to get dirty quickly.



I put the pins for the engine cover, in the engine side. Then put the new side gasket in place on the engine. We took the bike off the stand and tilted the bike to the right so the side cover gasket stays in place. Make sure the wires are tucked where they need to be.. Refer to the Manual!!! Install the side cover carefully and realize that big magnet is going to pull it on as you get it close so watch yer fingers. Re install the oil drain plug. Refill with your choice of oil (I'm not even gonna go there LOL

)



I hope everyone can read through this and add comments and suggestions. Hopefully this can become a sticky in the Tech section for future reference.

 

[Omega Man]

Very Nice! Should be a big help. OM

 

[PalmStateCrawler]

Thanks for taking the time to do this! This should be pinned.

 

[Jay64]

'Preciate this as I'll be doing the same soon.

 

[Rainman]

Very nice job. Thank you.

 

[STEVE IN SOCAL]

'Preciate this as I'll be doing the same soon.

X2...thx

 

[jpuck]

my son inlaw is needing to do his, i well have him look at this first. i thank when he see's how easy it is he well do his sooner. thanks good pictures.

 

[bbagwell]

Make sure you carefully scrape off all the old gasket material before installing the new gasket and putting the side cover back on. On the older bikes they have Phillips head bolts that strip easily. I replaced them all with new ones while I was at it. Now I wish I would have replaced them with regular hex heads like the new t-dubs.

 

[lower al]

This will help alot folks.An show them they can do it themself an save alot of money.

 

[mtkd]

This is a great help, I should be doing this in a few weekends, I can try to take pictures of the reassembly so you can add them to the end if you like.

 

[lizrdbrth]

Nice job, Senor Nitrous.

 

[n2o2diver]

This is a great help, I should be doing this in a few weekends, I can try to take pictures of the reassembly so you can add them to the end if you like.

Thanks everyone!



Great advice bbagwell, I didn't even get a shot of the gasket going on and should have.



Sweetzombiejesus that would be great if you can get some photos of it going back together, I will add them.

 

[B-dub]

Very well done! Most manuals I've read just say assembly is the reverse of disassembly, but it might be a good thing to say something about the nuances of installing an o-ring master link for those who've never worked with them. Again, you did a great job, and this certainly should be stickied.

 

[frog13]

Good info...thanks for taking the time!!!.

 

[TW_in_BC]

Thanks everyone!



Great advice bbagwell, I didn't even get a shot of the gasket going on and should have.



Sweetzombiejesus that would be great if you can get some photos of it going back together, I will add them.

Let me add something...

BEFORE you install the new gasket, trace it out on a sheet of gasket material so that you have a spare for next time!

Smearing a little grease on the gasket means that it will come off easier next time, too!



Great write up.

 

[ChrisH45]

New guy here, just trying to learn the basics of maintenance. One thing I don't understand. Is the outboard output shaft bearing lubed by engine oil, or is it sealed? If it is sealed, shouldn't it be changed when replacing the sprocket?



Thanks for the informative post!