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Discussion Starter #1
Good Morning,

For my first mod, I've decided that the stock chain has got to go (junk). Currently, I have about 400 miles total on the bike (~80% off-road), and I don't want to keep adjusting it anymore.

Here is the chain I am looking at https://fortnine.ca/en/did-428-vx-pro-street-x-ring-chain

- I want the 130 link gold chain (So I would have to remove 8 links with stock TW sprockets, correct?)

Also, I need to purchase a chain breaker and whatever else would be required to complete this job. I don't need a professional quality one ( I don't plan on changing my chains that often) and I don't want a piece of garbage either.

Here is what is available https://fortnine.ca/en/catalogsearch/result/?q=chain+breaker

Oh, I guess master link pliers as well? Any help would be appreciated!

Thanks for reading.
 

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oh yeah, I was going to add ........ I will be swapping out my chain and sprockets in the near future. There is post about laying your bike on it's side while doing this ... I think I am going to that route. It makes better sense to me as the dowel pins in the case won't fall out and, perhaps, in a better way I can eyeball and verify the stator wires aren't being crushed on re-assembly. Sane way of thinking if I elect to swap out any shaft seals or bearings while I am in there. I would rather drive them vertically rather than horizontally.
 

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+1 on my new ~$16 Harbor Freight chain breaker although a simple bench grinder and a center punch has worked well for me for previous 40 years. Grind down rivet head and use punch to drive out rivet's pin if you already have a grinder and don't want to go shopping. Harbor Freight tool works very well on our 428 chain.
chain_16332.jpg

Imagine custom dedicated purpose pliers would be nice but simple slip-lock pliers have always done the job for me. A time or two and one quickly figures out how not to damage circlip nor fingers. Channel lock and vise grip pliers also work very well. pliers.jpeg
 

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+1 on my new ~$16 harbor freight chain breaker although a simple bench grinder and a center punch has worked well for me for previous 40 years. Grind down rivet head and use punch to drive out rivet's pin if you already have a grinder and don't want to go shopping. Harbor freight tool works very well on our 428 chain.
ditto!
 

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I have had great luck with DID VX chains on Ebay. The trick to installing the master link is to get the plate compressed enough so the clip slides into the grooves easily.

GaryL
 

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If all your going to do is replace the chain then all you have to do is hook it to the old one. Pull the old one through until the end of the new one appears. Also if your using an o-ring master link and don't have a side plate compressor then a pair of small vice grips will do. Just place the jaws between the pins after putting the side plate on. Then tighten. You may have to repeat a few times but it will compress the side plate enough to get the retainer clip on.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
I'm hoping that this one pair of vise-grips I have will work (flat, wide, smooth jaws - don't want to damage the bling gold chain. I guess they're used for welding?. If not, I'll try my luck with a small C clamp.

Now that I think of it, a few well placed holes in the jaws would slip over the rivets, allowing you to press it on in one shot?
 

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Take a plate from the old Non O ring chain and use it as a backer so you don't mar the new gold plate. You might even drill the holes a bit larger than the pins to make for easy removal after the compression. 428 is 428 no matter if the chain is ringed or not. Keep in mind there is a limit to how much you can compress the O or X rings before they are squeezed right out.

GaryL
 

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I was going to ride my bike into work this morning after doing a chain swap last night... only to realize I did not have a c-clamp hanging around like I thought... so the master link is in with no plate on it... patiently waiting for me to get my act together lol
 

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These worked to install my new DID O-ring master link clip a few weeks ago without any supplemental compression devises. pliers.jpeg Squeeze link parts together a bit just enough to get one side of clip over, release pliers, rotate clip a bit, then use piers to slide clip on rest of way. Takes a bit of practice, patience and finesse but is not that difficult
 

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+1 on my new ~$16 Harbor Freight chain breaker although a simple bench grinder and a center punch has worked well for me for previous 40 years. Grind down rivet head and use punch to drive out rivet's pin if you already have a grinder and don't want to go shopping. Harbor Freight tool works very well on our 428 chain.
View attachment 196464

Imagine custom dedicated purpose pliers would be nice but simple slip-lock pliers have always done the job for me. A time or two and one quickly figures out how not to damage circlip nor fingers. Channel lock and vise grip pliers also work very well. View attachment 196466
I agree Fred, for over 40 years I've used a bench grinder and a punch to remove links from a chain as well as a plier or Vice Grip to put on the connecting link clip.
 

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These worked to install my new DID O-ring master link clip a few weeks ago without any supplemental compression devises. View attachment 196524 Squeeze link parts together a bit just enough to get one side of clip over, release pliers, rotate clip a bit, then use piers to slide clip on rest of way. Takes a bit of practice, patience and finesse but is not that difficult
It was weird Fred, I was putting on a 428 did X-ring chain like a lot of folks here, I tried channel locks vice grips, I had to use the c-clamp to get that plate to set on there to get the clip on...

I did watch the chain from the top while compressing the plate to ensure I didn’t bend it.

Just didn’t think I’d need that much pressure, but watching some videos, other folks had encountered similar master link scenarios. All good now though, chain is on, bike is happy.
 
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