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Discussion Starter #1
I have been looking around on our Forum and it seems there are bits and pieces on this topic in many Threads. Replacing a chain has opened up a can of worms for me. I know everyone has there own favorite products but when it comes to my TW I would like to use good quality components. When I start this project I want to have everything I need with procedures. Here's what I have so far and I have put Question marks where I need assistance

Checklist
Chain DID O Ring 428 ?
(2) Master Links one for spare
Sprockets? What company makes a descent product?
Rear Sprocket Bolt Kit. Do I need it?
Left Side cover Gasket
Counter Shaft Oil Seal Kit ? I have 5000 miles on my TW Do I need it?
Oil and Filter
Loctite What Type do you use on Motorcycles?
Permatex for one side of the gasket
Chain Break ? inexpensive and works

Have I missed anything?

I seem to remember a gear ratio program that calculated gears. I have a F-14 R-45. Is it really that big of a deal to change my front sprocket to a 15 tooth? I love my gear ratio. I was told 15-47 was the same I just want to make sure.
Torque Specifactions on all bolts. I do have a shop manual and I can look these up later unless someone has them on hand.
Your input on products and tips would be greatly appreciated. Thanks
Rick
 

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DID O or X-ring 428 yes
Master links (2) yes
JT Sprockets
Use the same bolts and tabs....once.
If your gasket is less that one year old you may re-use it if not torn.
My seals are fine at 10,000 miles
Clean the oil filter but unless the oil needs changing don't....Lie the bike on its side for the sprocket change...no oil will be lost.
I have never used Locktite for this type of service. Neither have I used Permatex on the left side case...no leaks in 7,000 miles, but my gaskets came off perfectly clean. Still, can't hurt.

Chain breaker: Motion Pro Chain Breaker - Motorcycle Superstore
Gearing Commander: Gearing Commander: Motorcycle Speed and Drive Train Calculator (Online and Stand alone)

There are TWO critical items when removing/replacing the left case and changing the front sprocket: Make SURE the locating dowels go back where they came from and don't fall out into the case...use heavy grease. Make SURE the stator wires do not get pinched. Because the magnets tend to force the stator and housing to stick, you need to exert force SIDEWAYS BUT NOT MUCH INWARDS to get the outer case to line up. NEVER force it inwards.....Once you have the dowels located the case will go in the rest of the way smoothly. Inspect the stator wires and the little plug just above the sprocket with a mirror and a flashlight after threading a few bolts but before tightening them to be sure they are seated right and not crushed.

It's really pretty easy.
 

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Discussion Starter #3 (Edited)
A picture is worth a 1000 words. You guys can visualize what your explaining in this repair. If we can give this Thread a visual it would help us newbie's who have never worked on motorcycles. Things like dowel pins dropping inside the case, pinching wires and getting the left cover to seat without pushing down all cause me anxiety. The tip using grease to hold the dowel pins in place is huge in my mind. I visualize myself carefully removing the case and the dowel pins go flyin. Not know how many there are and where they go back is a problem for me. Thanks
rick
 

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When talking about greasing the dowels to keep them in place, just a dab on the dowel sides. don't put it in the hole as it can keep the dowel from fully seating in the hole. When tightening excess grease will have to get by way of the gasket.
 

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A picture is worth a 1000 words. .....
rick
Damn, I know there are pictures in here somewhere....I just can't find them. :(

On other thing that I would recommend the first time you do this is to cut a piece of cardboard approximately the same shape as the cover, hold it up to the engine and use a pen to poke holes about where the various bolts are. Then place your bolts in those holes as you remove them....they are NOT all the same and this way you won't run the risk of putting the wrong bolt back in the wrong hole. Also, USE A TORQUE WRENCH when putting it all back together. The value is 7 Nm or 61 inch/lbs. Tighten the bolts on opposite sides in a couple of sequences just like you would lug nuts on your car.

Getting the wires seated is not difficult, there is a plug that is part of them that seats in the engine case....just press it back in place and look one last time just before you fully seat the case cover.
 

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No replacements here. Brand new. But, I am curious. Made the chain adjustment on my 600 mile service. It was quite loose but clicking the cams one notch almost brought it to too tight. I have changed out the OEM rear sprocket for a plus two tooth job. Could this be the reason for the adjustment difference?
 

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One thing I do on case cover replacement is make "guide" pins for installation. Take like a 60mmx6mm bolt and cut the head off. You screw these into the engine case to line you up upon reassembly, then remove them after the cover is seated and install the regular cover bolts. I use 2-3 of these at a time. On the left case cover I used 3, 2 of which went into the dowel holes, also keeping these from falling off.-Glenn
 

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Discussion Starter #12
No replacements here. Brand new. But, I am curious. Made the chain adjustment on my 600 mile service. It was quite loose but clicking the cams one notch almost brought it to too tight. I have changed out the OEM rear sprocket for a plus two tooth job. Could this be the reason for the adjustment difference?
You might want to tell your wife now that you need to spend more on your TW. :p. Buy a good chain now or you will be in the same boat I'm in at 5000 miles. :BangHead:
 

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Discussion Starter #13

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Good find GTG. That helps I'm starting to get a visual of this project. I might do the seals after seeing them in the pictures.
Honestly, for the price of them, if you have it apart anyway, I can't think of any reason not to.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Honestly, for the price of them, if you have it apart anyway, I can't think of any reason not to.
Are there any special techniques for removing and replacing the seals?
 

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Thanks for all the direction for replacing chain and sprockets. I tore into mine last night, but I have a question.

I know if/when you replace a chain that you should also replace both sprockets.

I have 6,000 miles on my TW. It has the original front sprocket that is now pretty darn worn. About 2,000 miles ago, I replaced my rear sprocket with a 54T. It still looks like it's in great shape without any "shark-toothing" or grinding at the bottom of the teeth.

I just bought a DID 428 130link X-ring chain to replace the old chain (not original).

Is it alright if I replace only the front sprocket, the chain, and leave the rear sprocket alone?

Thank you for your thoughts.
 

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Some will say no way no how, replace all. (Front sprocket, chain, rear sprocket).

Secretly without mentioning it hear on the forum, that's what I've done before and plan on doing it again within a week or two. Replaced front, kept rear. Fronts wear faster for me. If possible and you do see some rear sprocket wear, you can turn it around, but I'd only do this with a sprocket that doesn't have a recess on one side like the JT sprockets I've used. There would be some minor chain mis-alignment, which would/could cause early wear on all three components. This is why I took off my rear dual sprocket setup. I have a sunstar rear sprocket and it's flat on both sides. (55T by the way).
 

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Discussion Starter #19 (Edited)
Moabman One of the reasons I like to do the job right the first time is so when I go down the road there is no doubt in my mind. No short cuts for me. We all have probably taken short cuts in the past. Worry sucks :( I could see myself constantly looking at the chain and sprockets wondering if I made a mistake by not changing everything. Extra $25 and there is no doubt in your mind. Just my opinion. :D
 

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Discussion Starter #20
I'm still figuring everything out so when I start the job I have everything at hand. I ordered my parts tonight. Looked up torque specs

Torque Ft/lbs

Case Cover Screws. 5.1
Case Cover Bolts. 7.2
Rear Sprocket. 25.0
Foot Rest. 43.0
Rear Axle Nut 65.0
Stator Coil Assm. 7.2 Loctite. Not sure if I need to remove to replace the seal.
I'm still unclear what thread lock strength to use when needed.
 
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