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Discussion Starter #1
I have a 2006 TW with 2000 miles and have shimmed the needle, 130 main, 2 1/2 out on the pilot, adjusted the valves to the correct TDC setting on the gear. I still have a slight tapping noise at idle and high rpm. I would like to try to change the timing setting. Is there a way to advance/retard the timing setting? The timing chain looked tight when I took the cover off and no adjustment on the auto tensioner. I run non ethanol super premium.
 

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I have a 2006 TW with 2000 miles and have shimmed the needle, 130 main, 2 1/2 out on the pilot, adjusted the valves to the correct TDC setting on the gear. I still have a slight tapping noise at idle and high rpm. I would like to try to change the timing setting. Is there a way to advance/retard the timing setting? The timing chain looked tight when I took the cover off and no adjustment on the auto tensioner. I run non ethanol super premium.
For 2001 and up TW's to advance or retard the timing, you'll have to remove the timing chain tensioner. Then you'll have to remove the timing cam bolt. Then you will have enough slack in the chain to move it over the cam sprocket teeth. I'm not smart enough to know which way to move it to advance or retard the timing.

After re-securing the cam timing sprocket back into place, to replace the tensioner, remove the center cover bolt, using a small screwdriver, turn it while pushing in the rod at the same time. Holding the screwdriver in with the rod still retracted, insert back into the cyclinder and put the tensioner bolts back snug (not need to be torqued yet). Then you can remove the screwdriver and the rod with actuate and put tension back on the chain.

You can practice this screwdriver turning pushing rod before trying to put it back in the cyclinder. You'll bet a better idea of how it works than how I can describe.
 

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Yeah, you most likely correct. My response is when setting valves open and closed in relation to the timing marks on the cam sprocket and flywheel. Is that right?
 

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im sot sure i would go messing with the cam timing on a stock motor. When i put my 06 back together this winter i mistakenly had the cam off one tooth to the intake side and it made the valve hit the piston when i rolled it over by hand.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
I was looking for a finer adjustment than moving the chain one tooth on the cam sprocket. I was thinking a plate or engine cover you could manipulate a bit. There is no ignition rotor on this engine that could be turned a bit one way or another? Maybe I just live with the tappet like noise. My bike is quite quiet with the silencer on the stock exhaust system so I guess I am hearing every noise the engine makes.
 

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Why would you want to mess with valve timing?
You can alter where the power and comes on with cam timing changes. Advanced a little in relation to the crank will make more bottom end where retarded will make the power up top. The tw does not have a fine enough adjustment to really do anything with cam timing. Like my other post said one tooth off was enough to cause false clearance issues. Silly me forgot to tension the chain a little to make sure I got it correct when I put the motor back together....


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I was looking for a finer adjustment than moving the chain one tooth on the cam sprocket. I was thinking a plate or engine cover you could manipulate a bit. There is no ignition rotor on this engine that could be turned a bit one way or another? Maybe I just live with the tappet like noise. My bike is quite quiet with the silencer on the stock exhaust system so I guess I am hearing every noise the engine makes.
As far as I'm aware there is no ignition timing adjustment either, it's set at the factory. Either way cam timing or ignition timing are not going to make valve lash noise go away. A little noise from the valves is totally normal on these engines.

Personally it doesn't bother me one bit since both of mine when they are adjusted are a lot quieter than my Ducati is, that thing sounds like a sewing machine...


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You also said you are using "super premium" fuel ,why ?. The engine was designed for 87 octane (things may be different in Canada ?).
 

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I also run super in my TW here in Canada.. not because I need the octane but because it contains no ethanol. Our regular is 10% ethanol and mid grade is 5%. My understanding is that ethanol is corrosive and absorbs moisture. I'll pay the extra to keep my bikes free of ethanol.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Yes, the reason I use the high grade premium, no ethanol. I figure I get so good mileage with this bike it really doesn't affect my pocket book to use premium. And, I wasn't trying to solve a tappet noise by changing the timing, I was thinking it was a slight pinging from pre ignition that could be solved by changing the timing setting slightly.
 
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