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I changed from 10w to 15w and the nose-dive when stopping at red lights has decreased. I have read the pinned topic several times and have a question. I took out exactly 8ozs from each fork and replaced it with 8ozs. Is 8ozs really "not enough"?
 

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I respectfully suggest you review Lizdbrth's various posts on the subject. His are the best explanations for getting the front SAG right with preload and then measuring the HEIGHT of the fork oil. Like you, I figured x amount out must mean I'm supposed to put x amount in, and it was just wrong. Measuring it as he prescribes is some trouble, but it works. I am most happy with the outcomes from following his advice, and this rider is 220 lbs running 5wt Honda fork oil. In my case, 3/4" preload with 135mm oil height was magic.
 

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I respectfully suggest you review Lizdbrth's various posts on the subject. His are the best explanations for getting the front SAG right with preload and then measuring the HEIGHT of the fork oil. Like you, I figured x amount out must mean I'm supposed to put x amount in, and it was just wrong. Measuring it as he prescribes is some trouble, but it works. I am most happy with the outcomes from following his advice, and this rider is 220 lbs running 5wt Honda fork oil. In my case, 3/4" preload with 135mm oil height was magic.


Where is the 135 mm measured from?
 

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Springs and spacers removed and forks COLLAPSED (bottomed out) the measurement is from the top of the fork tubes to the oil.
 

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You can, but it leaves a lot of questionable gray gack containing moisture and contaminates in the very bottom of the fork legs. I find it better to remove them, give them a complete flushing then refilling them off the bike.



Loosen the upper triple pinch bolts then remove the caps, springs and spacers while the fork legs are still on the bike. Unbolt the caliper and let it dangle then remove the front wheel and fender. Loosen the lower pinch bolts and slip the forks out of the trees, dump the old oil out, flush with some cheap ATF by cycling the fork legs by hand, fill and measure while they're still off the bike and re-assemble.



I can probably do all that in less time than it takes to do the siphon/flush, siphon/flush nonsense with a vacuum pump and it does a much more thorough job.



Do it whatever way you feel most comfortable with, but take the time to get it clean and get the measurement exact and equal in both legs. This may mean numerous flushings. Do you really wanna do that with a pump?
 

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Did mine last night. If you want to completly dissasemble them We discovered that a rear axle bolt with the nut on and cotter pin in can be used to get the bolt out of the bottom of the fork. Did everything with the fok on the bike. Used a magnet to get everything out.
 

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Nice tip on the rear axle thingy. Was it long enough to extend outside the fork tubes with the lowers compressed or did you still need a deep socket?



That rear axle is a handy thing. Also removes the flywheel in a pinch if you don't booger the threads.
 

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Nice tip on the rear axle thingy. Was it long enough to extend outside the fork tubes with the lowers compressed or did you still need a deep socket?



That rear axle is a handy thing. Also removes the flywheel in a pinch if you don't booger the threads.
Stuck out about 1/8" on a 94 and about 1/4 on my 87. standard 22mm socket fits nicely inside the tube. I wish someone would start a thread on all the handy things we can use our rear axle bolt for. I keep an extra just to be safe, but have used it to pull the magneto.
 

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Good eye on your part.



I hope Brock is reading this.
 
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