[ericj]

I have the TW200 manual on CD and I can't seem to find where they recommend checking valve clearances? Does anyone know what mileages they recommend doing this.



I bought a slightly used bike (a 2007 - w/under 1000 miles), and although changed the oil/filter right away didn't do much else. Now had it in a shop with almost 3,000 miles and asked them to check the valve clearances while there which they did adjust saying they all needed adjustment.



Is there a "usual interval" for this?



Thanks,

Eric

 

[jimgoose]

My copy of the " '01 and newer supplement" says check the valves cold at 600, 4000, 7000, 10000, & 13000.

The manuals and parts catalog are out all over the web, but when you are asking a question and getting an answer its nice to have the docs right there.



So there they are -



Main Manual

Parts Catalog

2001 & newer supplement

Owners Manual

 

[ericj]

My copy of the " '01 and newer supplement" says check the valves cold at 600, 4000, 7000, 10000, & 13000.

Ok thanks... somewhere I have a copy of one of the manuals, but I looked through it and didn't see that info. So thanks very much, maybe mine is incomplete, or ??



Eric

 

[mudpuppy]

There is some info in another thread which talks about how to check and/or adjust the valve clearances in case you are the type who likes to do that sort of thing: http://twforumc.tmdhosting610.com/index.php?/topic/120-need-some-answers-yall/



I don't know if I'll ever do it myself or not because I have a dealer who does it real cheap, but it doesn't sound too hard----particularly if you are just checking the clearances to see if they are close to spec.



Corey

 

[underthewheel]

too set you valve clearince is very simple, no need four a delership to be infolved.with moter cold find you top dead center, remove u valve covers, get a pieces off computer printer paper, tear of a strip off it that fit in the clearinces easely. printer papers measer abot.004 so it will werk to ajust both valves.intakes is suposted to be .002-.004 and exhost is .004-.006.when they is tite enouf you will hear a squeek from the paper as you mofe it back and forth.keep papers dry so u can hear the noise it make, u will feel it two.i just do mine on my 09 twoday.only think was it was pain in but too get the valve cover screw out on left hand side off bike on intakes sides. these my 2 sents for these post.



fontintown firmarshel,

tenny

 

[bigdreama]

My copy of the " '01 and newer supplement" says check the valves cold at 600, 4000, 7000, 10000, & 13000.

The manuals and parts catalog are out all over the web, but when you are asking a question and getting an answer its nice to have the docs right there.



So there they are -



Main Manual

Parts Catalog

2001 & newer supplement

Owners Manual

Great info there Jimgoose. Thanks for posting.

 

[qwerty]

too set you valve clearince is very simple, no need four a delership to be infolved.with moter cold find you top dead center, remove u valve covers, get a pieces off computer printer paper, tear of a strip off it that fit in the clearinces easely. printer papers measer abot.004 so it will werk to ajust both valves.intakes is suposted to be .002-.004 and exhost is .004-.006.when they is tite enouf you will hear a squeek from the paper as you mofe it back and forth.keep papers dry so u can hear the noise it make, u will feel it two.i just do mine on my 09 twoday.only think was it was pain in but too get the valve cover screw out on left hand side off bike on intakes sides. these my 2 sents for these post.



fontintown firmarshel,

tenny

Friggin' cheap-ass shade tree mechanics. A full set of feeler gauges is about $4. Buy a set and do it right. By the way, a square drive drywall screw with a short piece of 1/2-inch wood dowel for a handle makes a dandy tool for holding the adjustment screw while tightening the locknut. Much easier to use than Yamaha's special $13 tool.

 

[underthewheel]

i finds it intersting that you says no too using the paper, and two use feeler gage, but them you go on and sugest too uses a drywall screw amd doweling rods insted of the yameha tool.so my ways is wrong but yous is right becos the correct by books tool cost more?as you demenstrates with you shortcut,these is not rokets sience to werk in these moters (or any moter four that mater)...aneyway just thot id chime in on these revelaten..got two go



fontintown firmarshel,

tenny

 

[qwerty]

i finds it intersting that you says no too using the paper, and two use feeler gage, but them you go on and sugest too uses a drywall screw amd doweling rods insted of the yameha tool.so my ways is wrong but yous is right becos the correct by books tool cost more?as you demenstrates with you shortcut,these is not rokets sience to werk in these moters (or any moter four that mater)...aneyway just thot id chime in on these revelaten..got two go



fontintown firmarshel,

tenny

Yup, something like that. Paper is not consistent in thickness, which will provide inconsistent results. The homemade tool works, providing more consistent results than the Yamaha tool. I actually have the Yamaha tool, tried to use it, and tossed it aside and finished Tdub's first valve adjustment with a box wrench and small needle nose pliars. It's not about cost, it's about quality workmanship. You are correct that these engines are not real picky. Experienced wrenches like you and I can adequately set valves on TWs just by wiggling the rocker with one finger.

Newbies really need to learn to do it right, the first time.

 

[jl052105]

Are these manuals valid for the 2010 tw200z?

 

[qwerty]

Close enough. There are some differences in the carbs starting in '09. Refer to the parts look-up at www.stadiumyamaha.com for correct part numbers for your bike.

 

[jl052105]

ty.. are all of the fluids the same?

 

[qwerty]

ty.. are all of the fluids the same?

I'm not sure if newer manuals reflect the changes in the API engine oil classification system, but all the old manuals are wrong by today's oil standards. API classification no longer applies to any motorcycles. No current API classifications include sufficient ZDDP or equivalent to protect the cam lobes and followers. In fact, for an oil to earn the latest API classifications, it can only have about 1/3 the necessary amount of ZDDP. You must have JASO MA or JASO MA2 certification to protect your clutch.



When choosing and oil, choose 10W or 20W based on your coldest expected cold start, and -40 or -50 based on your coldest and warmest intended operating conditions. Then make sure the oil is JASO MA or MA2 certified. Finally, make sure there is NO claim to be "fuel conserving" or "energy saving" or some variation on that theme (potential clutch damage), and make sure there is NO claim that the oil is "low polluting" (potential cam lobe and follower damage).



As for the all the other chemicals, no change as far as I know.

 

[number356]

OMG, checking the valve clearance on a TW is cake. I really doubt they would have to be checked @ 3000 miles. Honestly as robust and understressed the TW is I don't think you would ever have to adjust them - I never have and I use the cheapest oil and run my bike really really REALLY hard - and I have over 30,000 miles on it.