TW200 Forum banner

1 - 17 of 17 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
701 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
As the topic states, my ongoing work on getting the TW back in good running order has got

me to a new troubleshooting spot! I always did enjoy this part




If the bike is warm (I discount all oddities when warming up) and say, sitting at a stop light,

I have to keep my hand on the throttle to keep the bike from quitting. When it's good, it's good,

but when it's not, this is the symptom:



The engine "clicks" (audibly) and then the rpms drop off, if I've got the throttle slightly

cracked open so I'm just above idle, my hand won't move the throttle position, but the bike

will return to idle speed. If I then let off the throttle and then re-apply it to where I was,

the process starts over.



If I leave my hand off the throttle, it'll totally quit one time out of ten or so, but it starts

right back up.



The bike has had a recent valve adjustment (< 100 miles ago, and the problem existed before that

with about the same frequency), I've pulled the carb and cleaned it up, checked wiring, and

verified that the hoses to the canister are clear (see previous thread about california bike).
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
7,369 Posts
My W.A.G. is that your throttle cables are binding and the "click" you're hearing is the carb slamming closed.



Further, (since it's the internet, and my W.A.G. is worth zackly what you payed fer it), that you mis-routed the cables when you re-installed the tank after the valve adjustment, or just routed them the way they were when you took it off, which was wrong.



That, and your idle speed was never right, and your throttle cables have slack in them. I'll also bet that your throttle works really swell if you just sit in the driveway with the front wheel turned all the way to the right (left, on '01 or later bikes) except it won't idle.



If i'm wrong you win all my Barry Manilow records.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
701 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
lizrdbrth: hahahahah
I'm not much of a Manilow fan




Nah, the cables are actually in pretty good shape, the issue happens whether the

cables are pulling or not. I've run into the issue you describe with my old bike

(where when turned one direction it works much differently): except with that one,

it revved up when you turned right. I had adjusted them already and will (for

sanity's sake) take another look at them.



I don't know if idle speed is right; I have no tach but it sounds good to me;

maybe 1200-1400rpm by ear. The clicking really does sound like its in the engine,

and almost certainly "feels" like its being caused by the carb.



I think maybe this weekend I'll tear the carb back off it and go through it much

more carefully, paying a bit more attention than I did the first time.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
7,369 Posts
The whole "click" thing has me baffled, but look for a torn diaphragm while you're in there.



Or hit up Qwerty.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
701 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
Well, a small update..



I put on the neck gaiter and snowmobiling gloves this morning and rode the bike to an

install job we're doing in one of our remote datacenters, about a 50 mile round trip.

I've been trying to run the thing out of gas (get rid of the old stuff that was in it

when I got it.. let me tell ya, not easy on the little sipper
), and I finally did

it yesterday, filled up with 89 octane at the pump (a whopping $4.19 bill) and ran 60

or so miles today at speeds topping out at 60mph.. fastest I've had the bike going yet.



On my way home, I used the same traffic light that I still haven't found the magic spot

to put my steel-toe boots to trip the sensor as a metric. After sitting there for a

full minute or so, it had only 'clicked' once, vs. previous days when in that minute

it would have occurred 10+ times.



Dirty old gas? Maybe.. its still doing it in a minor way, and 'bucking' at low speeds

with minimal throttle, which I believe points to a lean condition or a poorly adjusted

chain. I adjusted the chain yesterday, and the plug is a little white; so I'm thinking

the second round of carb cleaning should help, and if not, bumping up from the #114 jet

may.
 

·
Banned
Joined
·
10,664 Posts
Unless you ride at 7000 feet of altitude that #114 jet is probably a little lean.



Your clicking sound is likely something hanging up inside the carb, then letting go. I'd do a complete disassemble and cleaning, checking each component for freedom of motion through its entire travel before taking it off. I'd push a little side-to-side to see if a burr was hanging up.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
701 Posts
Discussion Starter #7
qwerty: sounds good, that was my game plan.. I think I'll try to come up with a

slightly larger bore jet and see what happens, too. I certainly don't ever ride

at 7k feet--its a long ride from here to find that kind of elevation.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
54 Posts
As the topic states, my ongoing work on getting the TW back in good running order has got

me to a new troubleshooting spot! I always did enjoy this part




If the bike is warm (I discount all oddities when warming up) and say, sitting at a stop light,

I have to keep my hand on the throttle to keep the bike from quitting. When it's good, it's good,

but when it's not, this is the symptom:



The engine "clicks" (audibly) and then the rpms drop off, if I've got the throttle slightly

cracked open so I'm just above idle, my hand won't move the throttle position, but the bike

will return to idle speed. If I then let off the throttle and then re-apply it to where I was,

the process starts over.



If I leave my hand off the throttle, it'll totally quit one time out of ten or so, but it starts

right back up.



The bike has had a recent valve adjustment (< 100 miles ago, and the problem existed before that

with about the same frequency), I've pulled the carb and cleaned it up, checked wiring, and

verified that the hoses to the canister are clear (see previous thread about california bike).
I had the same problem last fall it turned out to be the coasting enricher the right side of the carb has a couple of screws under that there is a rubber diaphram that has a metal tab in the center. the kit at the dealer here is listed as coasting enricher. I just bought 2 extras for my own future. There is a couple extra parts in the kit a bushing and some other stuff to help align the push rod that hits the diaphram. when I first took out the original diaphram the metal tab had a dent worn in it. This Fall I heard the clicking again and I am thinking about adjusting the cam chain. I have 12,600 miles on my bike and my problem may be cam wear at this point or possibly the cam chain gear on the crank shaft. I hope this helps. The enricher kit cost me about $25 each.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
54 Posts
Well, a small update..



I put on the neck gaiter and snowmobiling gloves this morning and rode the bike to an

install job we're doing in one of our remote datacenters, about a 50 mile round trip.

I've been trying to run the thing out of gas (get rid of the old stuff that was in it

when I got it.. let me tell ya, not easy on the little sipper
), and I finally did

it yesterday, filled up with 89 octane at the pump (a whopping $4.19 bill) and ran 60

or so miles today at speeds topping out at 60mph.. fastest I've had the bike going yet.



On my way home, I used the same traffic light that I still haven't found the magic spot

to put my steel-toe boots to trip the sensor as a metric. After sitting there for a

full minute or so, it had only 'clicked' once, vs. previous days when in that minute

it would have occurred 10+ times.



Dirty old gas? Maybe.. its still doing it in a minor way, and 'bucking' at low speeds

with minimal throttle, which I believe points to a lean condition or a poorly adjusted

chain. I adjusted the chain yesterday, and the plug is a little white; so I'm thinking

the second round of carb cleaning should help, and if not, bumping up from the #114 jet

may.
I ran low octane gas when I got my bike until I found a sticker on the bike that says 91 octane minimum I run the local 92 and still ping on hard throttle times.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
701 Posts
Discussion Starter #10
wingnut: The sticker on my bike says to use 92 RON gas. RON is the Research Octane Number, which

isn't what you'll find labelled on the gas pump. 92 RON is regular old 87 octane in the USA.



Have a look at the table, here: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Octane_rating



Your bike should be fine with 87 octane pump gas.. but thank you about the enricher: I didn't see

any holes/etc in it, but the oring outer edge on it seems a bit stretched out. I'll be replacing

it when I've got some cash.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
44 Posts
Yeah... 2 years later... I have the exact same problem,and when I say exact I mean I typed in the description on google and this exact post came up. So what did you find was the issue?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
701 Posts
Discussion Starter #12
Dubsteppin: never narrowed the exact issue down, but I believe it almost entirely related to running lean. I've since rejetted and done a million other things; but if I remember correctly, you've got the older style TK carb (87-00 or similar years).



I'm running a #42 pilot and #116 main, and I can't remember how many tiny washers I have under the needle, but it seems like 1 or 2 #3 (#4?) stainless washers from the hardware store. Don't know their thickness, and I'm sure it varies. I ride between +0ft and +2000ft altitude; mostly around the 500-900ft mark.



I really don't believe that it was at any point related to a physical ailment (burrs as qwerty mentioned, or cable bind). It really never was that kind of "click". It always seemed like an extreme misfire; maybe 2 or 3 hard ones in a row. I also can't remember if I'd adjusted the cam chain at the point which this thread was active or not; but I suggest you do that anyway. If none of the above help, I'm sad to say I'm not sure, but mine is 'solved' at this point. That is, it doesn't do it when the bike is warmed up, only when its cold and a bit stumbly anyway.



If you've got some moments between doing random things, dig up my profile and look through my posts for a sort of timeline on what I've done to the bike, it may prove useful on this one. I'm no good at remembering timelines. It's a good thing the internet is!




Good luck, this one drove me insane for a very long time.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
70 Posts
My bike is very new. The clicking that I hear is timed exactly with the firing of the piston. It misses here and there(no clicking). The clicking is nonexistent when cold and doesn't start up until its warm and I run it

54 miles. Changed my oil at 36 miles. Not sure if the clicking has always been there. But I did seem to notice it after the oil change. Read a post from someone who had the same issue, changed back to Yamalube, and solved his clicking.

I will try Yamalube at my next oil change. And probably look into checking the
cam chain tensioner.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
503 Posts
you say your bike is very new. I'm guessing you are simply experiencing the 'it ain't broke in yet' conditions. I wouldn't do anything to it, other than changing oil, till you get it broke in. TIM
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
701 Posts
Discussion Starter #15
For what it's worth, since this thread hasn't died or seen a complete resolution yet, I'll throw in what I've done to the TW since, because I "don't have this problem anymore".

First off, I've rejetted again: I haven't changed the number of washers since my last note, its ~2 or so under the needle clip. I feel like I should add a third, but just haven't.
I've bumped to a #118 main, and a step up from stock pilot size (40->42 or 42->45, I forget now).

The biggest thing that seems to have an effect on this: I no longer run corn laden gas in the bike, and the problem simply does not happen. I also enjoy more consistant fuel mileage, more power (high and low end), and long rides on the beach... on a TW.

If I accidentally, or by necessity put a tank of ethanol gas in the bike, it does this again. It just seems like the little motor is just very sensitive to burning water/corn mash. I have a few local sources for 91 octane 0% ethanol gas, and the bike loves it. My kids can tell you how well it wheelies across the yard and driveway on the stuff.
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
17,991 Posts
I only run pure gas in my bikes and it does make a huge difference in gas mileage and performance.

Here is the link for forum members in the USA and Canada for finding pure gas in your area.

Ethanol-free gas stations in the U.S. and Canada

91 octane is not needed in TW's.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
701 Posts
Discussion Starter #17
I agree that 91 octane is unnecessary, but its my only choice for 0 ethanol gas. If I could get 87 octane 0 ethanol, you can bet I'd have it on hand :) It does seem to help a bit with engine temperature woes on really hot days riding slow offroad. But then, I also installed an oil cooler, so I haven't really had any problems with that recently anyway.
 
1 - 17 of 17 Posts
Top