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Hi All-



..long time viewer, first time contributor.



I recently got my urban assault vehicle out for spring. After a few weeks of riding on last fall's oil, I've put in a fresh quart of 20w-50, my usual summer oil lo these last 3 years. Starting 'er up and shifting into 1st, the clutch chunks something awful and the bike lurches forward (occasionally stalling). Idle rpms slow, and it feels as if the clutch is not fully disengaging. We are having 60 degree weather up here in Minnesota. And as stated, I have used 20w-50 oil plenty in the past with no troubles whatsoever.



REMEDIES I'VE TRIED

-- adjusting free play in clutch cable

(thinking maybe clutch wasn't fully disengaging)

-- allowing the engine to warm up for 5 minutes before shifting into 1st

(thinking oil viscosity needed to thin w/heat.. 60 degrees out)

-- holding in clutch for upwards of 20" before shifting

(thinking oil viscosity was keeping clutch from disengaging as easily as usual)

-- slightly backing the bike while shifting into 1st

-- blipping the throttle while shifting in..

(..read these somewhere)



None of these nor combinations thereof have worked. I'm not opposed to simply trading out the oil for a 10w-40 or something, but am confused.. as 20w-50 has worked so well for me in the past.



Any feedback or advice appreciated



2001 TW200

42 tooth rear sprocket

11,500 miles
 

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Have you checked your chain tension?


I'd say chain tension too.



If you have had good luck in the past with the 20-50 then I guess thats not the problem. I tried it two summers ago and it was fine when the temp was in the upper 80's, but anything below that the bike did not want to shift. I went back to 10-40 year round.



I did some rides with my 20-50 and it the bike would shift terribly in the morning at 50 degrees and great in the afternoon at 80 degrees.



To me, 60 degrees isn't warm enough to start using 20-50...but thats just me.
 

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Clutch plates sticking. Try shifting before you start the engine. If that works, i'd switch to 10w40. If that isnt it, then I agree with these guys about chain tension.
 

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I just switched to 20w50 last weekend, and now find the clutch grabs when cold also.

What I do (from having many old Triumphs) is to start the bike, pull the clutch in, and blip the throttle a few times, then put it in gear.

20w50 is likely just too thick until it gets hot out.
 

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20Wxx does not slip well in Tdub's clutch when cold. Within a few miles, once the oil warms up, 20Wxx works fine. I'm sure Barnett clutch plates contribute to the problem, but even the stock plates would drag when cold with 20Wxx oil.



I don't run 20Wxx oil unless ambient air temps are expected to be over 90*F, when facing a long sustained high speed ride in warm weather, and/or I expect to be doing a lot of riding at high throttle and slow speeds where cooling air flow might be insufficient.
 

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I just switched to 20-50w on my 2010 two weeks ago as a test. I immediately noticed that the clutch was dragging when the bike was cold, but a couple minutes warm-up, and working the clutch before dropping into first pretty much eliminated the klunk into first and the grabbing. Our ambient temps have only been in the mid 70's. Any colder than that and I probably would have had to change back to 10-40w



What I also noticed about the 20-50w, and like A LOT is that on the street, at speed, the shifting feels much smoother and the clutch is grabbing hold way faster than it was with 10-40w. Totally different feel when you pop the clutch between 3-4 and 4-5.



I'm just using Yamalube...



Agreed with the other members on your chain tension... It definitely makes a difference in how the bikes shifts. I tend to set my stock chain at about 1.5 inches slack. and let it loosen up from there.



Happy trails!
 
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