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Discussion Starter #1
I have some bad slippiage!!! I have adjusted the clutch down on the case, all the way in and out, as well as the handle bar adjustment in the process. The best i can do is get the bike to clunk into first, let go of the clutch and the bike doesnt stall, grab, or really move. If i give it a little bit of throttle it kinda jumps a bit and will slowly engage...any more throttle and it just revs up and slips. My clutch plates are good, and they seem to be in the right order. Im more confused on if i have everything assembled right.



My concern is about 13 and 14..how tight does 13 have to be? Any ideas?

How tight should 17 be against 14?















 

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When I did mine, number 13 was just tight, not big ol torque wrench tight, but just snugged up.



All 17 does is to keep 14 from moving, so snug is okay.



14 pushes against 25 which pushes against 24 and snugs up against 20. In the manual it says how to do this, but it describes two different ways.



Loosen 17 with a wrench while holding 14 with a screw driver. Make sure your pointer on the left side case (where your clutch cable meets the engine) is pointing at the hash mark on the case. Then hold 17 with a wrench while you screw in 14. You'll see the pointer on the left side move when number 14 is tightened correctly.



The other way the manual tells to do it is to loosen the cables and push the pointer with your hand all the way forward, then screw in 14 until the pointer is lined up. This method didn't really work for me. I like to get the pointer close, and then snug 14 up against it just until the pointer moves.



Whew, thats a lot of numbers. Hope it makes sense and I really hope I kind of answered your question.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Got it..i had number 13 tightened all the way down, rather than flush with 10. Looks like im due for new clutch plates...she slips in 3 and 4th gear
 
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