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My wife and I fired up our 2008 and 2006 TW's today. Stone cold, running Amsoil 20-50 in both bikes. Both start and run fine......but when my wife drops it into 1st, it stalls because the clutch fails to disengage. Once warmed up, no problem. The clutches in both bikes are adjusted properly and this problem only occurs when cold.. The 2006 has the same problem but not as bad. I originally ran Yamalube 20-50 went over to Amsoil to see if this problem would go away. Any ideas or suggestions ?? I bought both bikes last year and they both have less than 1500 miles.
Thanks for any input.
 

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If you notice they are sticking, pull in the clutch and rock the bike back and forth until they disengage, then start in neutral as normal and it shouldn't be a problem when you put it in gear and go. There really isn't a fix, they all do it from time to time.
 

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Since I switched to full synthetic mine have plates do not tend to stick. Actually never since the change. Contrast this it yamalube which was very bad for this.
 

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I find that the handgrips have collars that sometimes hit the levers giving you the feel that you have pulled the clutch in all the way when in fact you have not . need to cut that section off . also hold the clutch lever in for several seconds before putting in gear
 

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Discussion Starter #5
The Amsoil that I'm using IS full synthetic........but the clutch plates still "stick".....only when cold. There are several bike mfg's that don't recommend using synthetic oils as it will cause clutch slippage, ie Honda, Kawasaki, etc. My wife is not used to this happening with her street bike. She is not happy to have to "rock" the bike back & forth as it is not always convenient.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
It was about 62 degrees ..........bikes haven't been run this year until now. I was the same deal last season. Once again, once normally warmed up and then driven for a few seconds, clutch acts normal and they are properly adjusted according to the owners/shop manual. Never experienced this problem before in 45+ years of operating motorcycles. Sticking clutches is new to me. ??
 

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When bikes with a wet clutch have been sitting for a week or more, it's always been a good idea to hold the clutch in for at least a few seconds after starting in neutral before dropping it into gear. If the bike lurches forward or stalls, you didn't hold it in long enough. A friend told me this back in 1971 when I started working at the Yamaha dealer.
 

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Try a different oil. Search the threads. Your problem has been covered a lot. I road mine all winter with Motul 10w40 and it was 0 degrees some days the clutch plates never stuck together.. I am a betting man and I bet the Mobile 1 or Similar in 10W40 cures it.
 

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I have a pair of 06 Tw's and one of them does the same thing the other does not. The only difference between the two is the amount of miles on each one. The one that does this from time to time is has ~2200 miles on it the other one that never does it has 14k. Both have amsoil 10w40 in them. I honestly think its a break in thing and the clutch is not fully there yet on the one with 2200 miles on it. When i first got the bike it had 1800 miles on it and it has gotten better as i have put more on it. If i have not ridden it for a week or more i let it warm up for a few minutes before i take off and its fine.
 

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my 2013 does this as well, it currently has 500km on the meter. I usually cycle the clutch a few times before dropping it into gear. When I do this it never hangs up or stalls. On a side note the clutch has been hanging up on release and after inspection by their mechanic, the dealer is going to pull it apart under warranty to see what the issue is.
 

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Both bikes are running 20-50!!!-Yamaha does not say 50 weight anywhere in their info mm40 weight is tops You might be surprised what 10 points in oil weight will do , I have seen it destroy a chev metro . 10 -40 might just be worth a try or 10-30 to be on the safe side if your not going over 100 degrees outside temp . Sometimes bigger is not better.
Had my clutch off the other day and it does not disengage as smoothly as I think it should moved the springs into different locations and it helped a bit . I believe Yamaha in their attempt to make an easy pull clutch did not put as much release into the system as they should have . Drilling a hole further down the release lever to increase the throw might be a solution to the problem . But in hindsite I remember having the same problem with a Honda . Barrnet Clutch solved that problem bye getting away from the Cork plates . Too bad I did not hear of this before I put the bike back together or I would have installed a Barrnet clutch just to see if it helped . New Amsoil 10-30 and works just fine . so I won't be going to 50 anytime soon . I do hold the clutch in a few seconds before putting it in gear . Something I have been doing for 60 years now Starting with my Sears Allstate moped.
Still betting with the other s 10-30 will help. As there was plenty of clearance between the plates and LOTS of oil Stickion from what I could see

My wife and I fired up our 2008 and 2006 TW's today. Stone cold, running Amsoil 20-50 in both bikes. Both start and run fine......but when my wife drops it into 1st, it stalls because the clutch fails to disengage. Once warmed up, no problem. The clutches in both bikes are adjusted properly and this problem only occurs when cold.. The 2006 has the same problem but not as bad. I originally ran Yamalube 20-50 went over to Amsoil to see if this problem would go away. Any ideas or suggestions ?? I bought both bikes last year and they both have less than 1500 miles.
Thanks for any input.
 

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My wife and I fired up our 2008 and 2006 TW's today. Stone cold, running Amsoil 20-50 in both bikes. Both start and run fine......but when my wife drops it into 1st, it stalls because the clutch fails to disengage. Once warmed up, no problem. The clutches in both bikes are adjusted properly and this problem only occurs when cold.. The 2006 has the same problem but not as bad. I originally ran Yamalube 20-50 went over to Amsoil to see if this problem would go away. Any ideas or suggestions ?? I bought both bikes last year and they both have less than 1500 miles.
Thanks for any input.
I have a question about the viscosity of the oil you are using..! You are in a cold climate and the bike is stone cold. Why are you running such a heavy synthetic oil ?
I run Mobil 20-50W in my bike coz I live in a very hot country and there are very few days in a year the temp is below 25 Celsius ( 77 Fahrenheit)
When I was running 10-40W dino oil i noticed more noise from engine..! (Like the Oil is too thin) So i switched to a much heavier oil..! Your issue seems the opposite..!
TW won't need a heavy 20-50W synthetic unless you are in a very hot climate or do very aggressive trail riding..!
Try switching to a thinner oil..!

Anyway if you wish to run 20-50W, you should atleast give the bike 1-2 mins to warm up..! I've observed even with high ambient temps here, the bike under performs untill i run 5-6 kilometers..! It's the nature of these bikes i think..! They needs to be fully warmed up before you can ride as you desire..!
 

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On the left rear of the engine where the clutch cable attaches there is a problematic spring that is often not installed correctly. Match that spring on both bike to make sure they are fastened the same.

Another possibility, either you or a PO used an oil that is not listed as specifically for motorcycles with wet clutches. All oils are not the same and some, both synthetic and dino have additives that can gum up the wet clutch plates. When an oil states it is for wet clutches these additives are left out. If your springs are in the correct position on the engine clutch lever you might have to go in and inspect the plates and springs inside. Won't be surprised to hear they are highly glazed.

GaryL
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Back to where I started....."stone cold" is ambient temperature. In this case, around 55-60 degrees. Any colder than that , they can stay in the garage. Anyhow, this morning I pushed the bikes back and forth a few times in second gear with the clutch held in. The clutch freed up after a few back and forths. Put them back in neutral, started, droped into first....no problem. My manuals state 20-50 for the temps I run in, and when you're rock crawling , things begin to heat up. After further readings, I going to swap over to Red-Line 20-50 and see if makes a difference.. Might also remove some of the notchiness. I'm running out of excuses explaining to wife why she doesn't have this problem with her 750 Honda street ride. Red Line, here we go. I do an oil/filer change next week and report back. I checked the mileage as I was guessing before.
2008 has 2402 miles, originally from Arizona. (this is the problem bike)( maybe clutch plates are glazed). My 2006 has 1632 miles and is from New Hampshire. This bike has less of an issue. Thanks for all the feedback . I'll report back later next week with Red Line results.

mercman in VT
 

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SUGGESTIONS you asked for

I got one of the old Crappy model TWs and my manual says 20W40 RM .
If you are running amsoil you cold probably get by on 10 wt oil Do us a favor before you change your filter , throw in a can of 10 wt and see if it helps
RED LINE is good oil . Use it in my Maico trans missions for years . Never had a problem . Factory was just a few miles from me
Glazed are better yet , no friction
Sticky oil in the clutch might sound bad but think about it sticking to other engine parts . GOOD good
How about trading bikes with the wife?
 

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Discussion Starter #19
My wife's bikes are both white..........swapping wouldn't work for either of us ( my 2006 is blue) ...and it still wouldn't be a cure. Still going for the Red Line. We'll see.........
 

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The Amsoil that I'm using IS full synthetic.
20W50 is probably a little thick for most temperatures. I have been running 10W40 Mobile 4T Racing for 6,000 miles now and my clutch plates only stick if it's below 40 and I haven't run it for weeks.
I would not use 20W50 in this bike unless the temperatures were consistently over 95 degrees. Full synthetic is definitely the way to go after at least a 1,500 mile break-in.
 
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