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Discussion Starter #1
I dumped the TW while doing donuts in a local sandpit. My hand was on the clutch and the wheel was still spinning around. I was able to safely stop the wheel with my other hand, but when I let go it started spinning again. This is all with the clutch lever pulled all the way in.

I'm wondering what I need to adjust. I don't want to start loosening things off without some guidance. Is it a clutch perch adjustment? Or further down the line?

When I bought the bike, the clutch return spring was not installed properly as is common. Would this wear down the clutch or cause some sort of malfunction?

The bikes shifts ok, but often it's tricky trying to shift when the bike is not moving. Also, it wont roll when in gear with the clutch pulled in. This can't be right..



Howaa!
 

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Cable has probably just stretched a bit with normal use. I like to maintain a bit of adjustability at the perch for on-the-trail adjustments so typically make major adjustments at home by extending the cable length adjusters at the case. You might wish to also confirm that you are getting full travel at the handlebars when you pull in the clutch lever, that lever is not contacting anything limiting travel.
 

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The wheel will spin if in gear and the clutch is pulled in. There is oil between the clutch plates and that is enough to get the back wheel going. It should move, if in gear and the clutch is pulled in though. You may need to make an adjustment. You can do it at the perch. Slide the little rubber boot thingy down and loosen the larger locking wheel nut. Screw the inner screw out that is attached to the clutch cable and has the clutch cable running through it. Re-tighten the locking wheel. You should have about a half inch, measured at the end of the clutch lever, of free play.
 
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Are you sure the clutch is adjusted properly down on the outside of the crankcase ?

There’s a pointer on the lever that needs to line up with “embossed mark” on the crankcase.




clutch.JPG
 

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Discussion Starter #5 (Edited)
Are you sure the clutch is adjusted properly down on the outside of the crankcase ?

There’s a pointer on the lever that needs to line up with “embossed mark” on the crankcase.




View attachment 18730
Is that marker supposed to line up when the clutch is released? or when the clutch is pulled? It definately transits that line when I pull the lever. It goes past it when released, and goes past it when I pull the lever. Maybe its just the oil causing friction? I am running 0w-40 amsoil in the bike. It does move, but with alot of force. My other bikes would roll in gear as if in neutral, if the clutch is pulled. Also, when hit the starter in gear with the clutch pulled, the bike lurches forward abit. Again, oil?

*edit* I will try the adjustment to see if its just cable stretch, and will check the cables for binding etc *edit*

Thanks for the replies!

Howaa!
 

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That mark on the crankcase is supposed to line up with the pointer on the lever with the clutch hand lever completely relaxed.

Loosen up the cable at the handlebars – then use the small nuts down below on top of the crankcase to line up the pointer on the lever to the mark on the crankcase – then take up any remaining slack on the cable at the handlebars.

Might be worth taking a quick picture of its original position just in case you need to reverse this procedure ………..
 

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That mark on the crankcase is supposed to line up with the pointer on the lever with the clutch hand lever completely relaxed.

Loosen up the cable at the handlebars – then use the small nuts down below on top of the crankcase to line up the pointer on the lever to the mark on the crankcase – then take up any remaining slack on the cable at the handlebars.

Might be worth taking a quick picture of its original position just in case you need to reverse this procedure ………..
I think this is incorrect purple. Loosen the cables, then you have to pull off the clutch cover and adjust it from the inside lining up the mark, then pop a new gasket on the cover, put it on, then adjust the cables.
 
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LT – I’m working on the theory that it was set up correctly at the factory, but when that spring wasn’t done properly, someone may have fiddled about with it to try and get it working.

So – back to factory settings (externally) – and take it from there.

You’re quite correct in saying that the mark is set internally, yet the OP says it goes past that mark once released …………………
 

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We don't know how many miles he has on the bike, but usually as the clutch plates get worn, it will slowly move away from that mark eventually needing to be adjusted internally. Normal procedure would be adjust inside, then adjust cables.

As far as it being difficult to get in any gear while not moving, this is normal for this bike. Oil changes help when it gets like this.

As to the question about clutch in, in gear, no rolling. If it only does this when cold, not running, (just trying to move the bike around), it is usually sticking clutch plates. They all do it once in a while. Just pull the clutch in and rock the bike forward and backwards as hard as needed until they let loose. You will feel it. This is also what causes the bike to lurch forward when first started and dropping it in gear to go.
 

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I think this is incorrect purple. Loosen the cables, then you have to pull off the clutch cover and adjust it from the inside lining up the mark, then pop a new gasket on the cover, put it on, then adjust the cables.
I think this is correct also. Mine actually (now) moves past the mark when released. I did this by adjusting how close the cable sheath is to the lever. You adjust it on the perch close to the lever, then readjust the hand lever slack. This brings clutch engagement closer to the grip where it should be. A lot of people complain about how far out the clutch engages on the TW, I was one of them, till I adjusted it :)
 
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When the clutch is pulled in the plates don't have much tension between them and the bike quits moving forward.

HOWEVER

If the rear wheel is off the ground, it will continue to spin if the motor is running, the bike is in gear AND the clutch is pulled in.

Here's WHY

The oil is viscous enough that it will cause the plates to transfer a little bit of energy. Not much, in fact, as you noted, you could stop the wheel with your hand. It will start to spin again if you remove your hand, but there will always be oil drag.

Try this;
put your bike in gear with the motor off, clutch pulled in. Now roll it. Now put the bike in neutral and with the clutch in or out try to roll it. See? More resisitance with the gears engaged.

Your bike is probably fine.
 
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