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Discussion Starter #1
Went for a 3+hr ride today, and on the way home my clutch started slipping. Adjusted both ends when I got home and shimmed the return spring to give it a bit more return. It's definitely better than it was, but still not grabbing proper. Current clutch (and bike) has just under 5300mi on it. I bought it from the original owner with 916mi on it about this time last year. Gearing for half or more of that mileage was +1 on the front for 15/50. Probably due for an oil change. I'm not exactly the baby-it type in riding style, but I'm not horribly abusive either.

What kind of mileage are you guys getting out of your clutches?
 

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I got close to 40,000 miles on my first clutch set. I had some slippage occasionally since I often used oil not designed for wet clutches. I would add about 4 ounces of Lucas Heavy Duty Oil Stabilizer and it would swell up the clutches and I would keep on going. Do not overfill your oil. Mine never actually went out but I changed them as a preventive measure eventually and they actually weren't in that bad of shape. I switched to Barnett clutches as many suggested. Yours shouldn't be worn at all at that low mileage unless someone was above and beyond harsh on the clutch. I would try the Lucas as I mentioned above before tearing into it. Others may suggest to change the oil and clutches and use wet clutch oil only. Your money, your choice. Also did you check the clutch return spring to make sure it was correctly positioned? There are posts about that, I believe in the technical section.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
It had Yamalube in it when I got it, I switched over to Mobil-1 T4 10W40 shortly after and it had been performing fine on that. I'm definitely not anywhere near that sort of mileage on it. I wonder if a long relatively hard ride today on an overdue oil change was what caused it.

Edit: By long and relatively hard ride, it was all street with one minor excursion into some dirt, lots of hills and twisties with copious amounts of gear changes.
 

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That ride shouldn't have been that harsh. Yamaha oil shouldn't be an issue either. It isn't really hot yet either so oil temp shouldn't have been an issue. I am in Texas so I usually run 20/50 but I ride over 50 degrees at nearly the coldest and road temps are over 100 degrees nearly all summer. If I rode where it s cooler I would run the lower viscosity.
 

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Sounds like you switched to non-motorcycle oil. Same thing happened to me when I tried Shell Rotella T-4 or T-6, I don't remember which. It happened on both of my TW's. I solved the problem by installing a Barnett Kevlar clutch with Barnett springs. Cost twice as much and worth every penny.
 

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when you all are installing Barnett clutches. are you using the Barnett springs also? I'll bet just using those springs alone would stop slippage. I've attempted to use Barnett clutches in other bikes but the supplied springs made the clutch pull entirely too stiff. I'm not debating what anyone else uses. What works for you works for you. I'm saying I stick with OEM when it comes to brakes and clutch plates.
 

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I think the overdue oil change tells all. I often notice slippage on my old bikes (original clutches) when they are due for a change. I have only ever used Mobil1 Racing 4T. Not that it’s better than others, but almost every auto parts store here has it in stock.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
That ride shouldn't have been that harsh. Yamaha oil shouldn't be an issue either. It isn't really hot yet either so oil temp shouldn't have been an issue. I am in Texas so I usually run 20/50 but I ride over 50 degrees at nearly the coldest and road temps are over 100 degrees nearly all summer. If I rode where it s cooler I would run the lower viscosity.
It was mid 40's here, but I've run the same 10W40 in 100+ without issue, so temps shouldn't have been a contributing factor.

Sounds like you switched to non-motorcycle oil. Same thing happened to me when I tried Shell Rotella T-4 or T-6, I don't remember which. It happened on both of my TW's. I solved the problem by installing a Barnett Kevlar clutch with Barnett springs. Cost twice as much and worth every penny.
Definitely motorcycle oil, it even has a little picture of a motorcycle right on the bottle so I don't forget.
https://mobiloil.com/en/motor-oils/mobil-1/mobil-1-4t-motorcycle-oil

I'll check out the Barnett, but still curious as to why this would fail with such low mileage.

I think the overdue oil change tells all. I often notice slippage on my old bikes (original clutches) when they are due for a change. I have only ever used Mobil1 Racing 4T. Not that it’s better than others, but almost every auto parts store here has it in stock.
Looking at my notes it's really not that overdue, only by 250-300mi on a 2000mi interval schedule. I tend to change more frequently on bikes than I do cars since they have smaller reservoirs, particularly for the first 8,000-10,000mi.

- Got the bike at 916mi with stock Yamalube
- Changed it to Mobil 1 4T at 1200mi
- Changed again at 3000mi
- Meant to change it again at 5000 but didn't get to it before winter
- Bike currently has just under 5300mi on it
 

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when you all are installing Barnett clutches. are you using the Barnett springs also? I'll bet just using those springs alone would stop slippage. I've attempted to use Barnett clutches in other bikes but the supplied springs made the clutch pull entirely too stiff. I'm not debating what anyone else uses. What works for you works for you. I'm saying I stick with OEM when it comes to brakes and clutch plates.
When the clutch first started slipping the first thing I tried was shimming the springs -- and it worked for a while. Then I tried the Versah heavy duty clutch springs -- and that worked for a while too. The third attempt to cure the clutch slipping was the Barnett clutch with the Barnett springs -- and that worked great!. Smooth action, minimal sticking, and no slipping. The difference between the Versah and Barnett spring was minimal, at least at the clutch lever, but I used the Barnett springs because they were included in the kit.

"What works for you works for you." Also my philosophy! I simply state what I have done and whether or not I am happy with the results and for me, with the Barnett Kevlar clutch, I am very happy.
 

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Barnett clutch discs and springs ordered. Stock shouldn't be dead after only 5k miles, but I'm going to have it open anyway to do the kickstarter install, so may as well.

Thanks all for the input.
That's what I did. Clutch was fine, but since I had to remove it for kickstart install, I just replaced it with the Barnett kit. Makes even more sense in your case.
 

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Barnett clutch discs and springs ordered. Stock shouldn't be dead after only 5k miles, but I'm going to have it open anyway to do the kickstarter install, so may as well.

Thanks all for the input.
You are right that it should last a lot longer than it has. What you don't know is what the prior owner may have done to it as far as abusing the clutch. I also wonder if the internal pushrod needs to be adjusted.

If you are going to have it apart anyway now is the time to upgrade the clutch too. I would be curious to see how the plates measure for wear once you have it apart.

I did the Barnett clutch on my girlfriends TW and it is truly a great upgrade. Her bike had ~16k on the clock and it was not at all worn out or slipping. She simply hated the feel of the stock one, the Barnett kit totally took care of that issue. One of these days i want to do mine too.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Yeah, I'm one of those "while I have it apart...." types, and no sense in not replacing or upgrading the clutch if I'm already going to have it open.

And in true form, since I just noticed my fork boots were splitting, that turned into may as well do the fork oil since I'll have them out. And since I'll have them open, may as well do fork springs since I'm a larger gent. If I'm doing fork springs, might as well see what these emulators are all about. And I'll be damned if I'm going to do the front suspension without throwing an appropriate spring on the rear. Procycle just ate my credit card.

And that's on top of a fresh set of tires/tubes waiting on go on with new pads and shoes.
 

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I would like to see some pics of these overhauls when your done, and hear a report on your opinion as well. And where did you buy the kick starter kit as well?
 

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It doesn't make sense with that low hour motor. You definitely have enough play at the lever? Cable slides and lever snaps back smoothly? Don't mean to be insulting by stating the obvious but the TW motor puts up with a lot of stupidity. I know a guy that has abused his TW a lot and it just keeps running
 

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Discussion Starter #18
I would like to see some pics of these overhauls when your done, and hear a report on your opinion as well. And where did you buy the kick starter kit as well?
Anything specific you'd like pics/vid of? When it's done, pics aren't going to show much since most of it is internal.

I got the kickstarter parts from boats.net, substituting the kick lever part number as mentioned in this thread:
https://www.tw200forum.com/forum/performance-customization/63274-tw-kick-starter-parts-end-era-tw200-kick-lever-discontinued.html


It doesn't make sense with that low hour motor. You definitely have enough play at the lever? Cable slides and lever snaps back smoothly? Don't mean to be insulting by stating the obvious but the TW motor puts up with a lot of stupidity. I know a guy that has abused his TW a lot and it just keeps running
No offense taken, it's an odd scenario. Play at the lever and at the arm were within spec, I set/adjusted them to what was indicated in the manual when I put the shorty levers on. I did notice the return didn't quite feel as return'y as it did/should, which is why I shimmed between the external return spring and the arm. Maybe that spring got sprung? It had been behaving great all day, and just went to shit on the way home.
 

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The clutch in the TW (like a lot of other Yamaha's dating from the 80s) is marginal at best. On full throttle acceleration in top gear even the slightest touch at the lever will make it slip. It's juuuuust barely holding on at best of times. Up the engine power a little (a wiseco piston was enough to do it on both mine), raising the gearing (gives the clutch less of a mechanical advantage), or using some super slippery synthetic can all be enough for it to slip. Same goes for a slightly sticky clutch cable, weak return spring, or too little play in the cable. Ensure you have good slack in the cable and it's well lubed. If you're using some super magic fairy dust infused synthetic, try a different brand or switching to conventional. "wet clutch safe" is a virtually meaningless term(just means it doesn't have the API energy conserving mark, which you can see for yourself on the donut) and I've seen plenty of clutches slip after using a "wet clutch safe" motorcycle oil.

Both my TW's ended up getting the Vesrah heavy duty clutch springs which cured the issue. They're maybe 5mm longer than the stock ones, as well as noticeably firmer to squish by hand.
 
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