[dennism]

I've read several threads about the clutch spring issues and looked at the sticky. My clutch problem seems like it may be different from those, but I'm just not sure. Most of those threads describe losing power or clutches not engaging until the lever is almost all the way out. Here is what happened with mine (2007 TW200 with 1500 miles). I warmed the bike up (in neutral) for a few minutes until it was idling smoothly. Then, I pulled the clutch lever all the way in. I put the bike in first gear and it jumped forward and stalled (all with the clutch lever pulled all the way in). I put it back in neutral, started it again and this time everything worked fine.



Is that likely the same clutch spring issue? (I'm at work and can't check the spring until later tonight) Or is it a different issue altogether?

 

[uktw125]

It sounds to me like the clutch plates were stuck together.



Has the bike been sitting unused for a while? when was the oil last changed? is it motorcycle specific oil?



If I have not used my bike for a while I put it in gear, pull the clutch lever and rock the bike back and forth to be sure the clutch plates are free before I start the engine.

 

[bend42]

I've read several threads about the clutch spring issues and looked at the sticky. My clutch problem seems like it may be different from those, but I'm just not sure. Most of those threads describe losing power or clutches not engaging until the lever is almost all the way out. Here is what happened with mine (2007 TW200 with 1500 miles). I warmed the bike up (in neutral) for a few minutes until it was idling smoothly. Then, I pulled the clutch lever all the way in. I put the bike in first gear and it jumped forward and stalled (all with the clutch lever pulled all the way in). I put it back in neutral, started it again and this time everything worked fine.



Is that likely the same clutch spring issue? (I'm at work and can't check the spring until later tonight) Or is it a different issue altogether?

I have experienced this frequently in cold weather. Even after seeming to have warmed the engine up [runs with no choke] the bike will stall when I put i into 1st. More gas gets me past this, and then a mile or so of driving and shifting resolves it until it's cold again. I'm going to synthetic oil at 1200 miles, and hope this helps.



John

 

[dennism]

Thanks, that makes a lot of sense. I just bought the bike used and I had ridden it a couple times, but it had been sitting outside under a cover in cool rainy conditions (since that's all we seem to be having this spring in New England). And the problem went away after I rode it. No further problems. That definitely eases my mind, thanks for your quick answers.

 

[frog13]

What weight of oil is in the bike?..10w40,20w50...is it dino(regular oil) or synthetic...is the oil motorcycle specific?.

 

[hoofhearted529]

20w50

 

[rtbuckingham]

10W-40. And YES! USE MOTORCYCLE SPECIFIC OIL!!!

 

[qwerty]

Sticky clutches are common with many motorcycles when they have sat a while. Dragging when cold is also common. Some bikes, even of the same model, year, and similar miles, are worse than others. Different oils sometimes make the clutch act differently. Most of Tdubs cold grab went away when I switched to Mobil 1, but the CB didn't seem to notice the difference. I always park my bikes in gear to prevent a folding kickstand if bumped from behind, and I've found the most effective course of action is to leave the trans in gear and pull in the clutch when rolling a bike from the garage. That greatly reduces cold related drag.

 

[dennism]

I don't know what was in it when I bought it, but I just changed it yesterday with Valvoline motorcycle specific 10W-40.

 

[qwerty]

I don't know what was in it when I bought it, but I just changed it yesterday with Valvoline motorcycle specific 10W-40.

I've used the Valvoline. Good for a dino oil. Mobil 1 Racing 4T drags less.

 

[dennism]

I'll try the Mobil 1 Racing next time I change the oil. I also wanted to share something that seems to have helped. In addition to qwerty's recommendation to roll the bike in gear with clutch in to break the plates apart, I found another suggestion somewhere on the internet that seemed to help. After rolling the bike as suggested, then starting the bike and while warming up in neutral, I alternated between 10 seconds on and 10 seconds off with the clutch lever. After trying this yesterday, no lurching when dropping into 1st and no difficult first shift into second gear.



Worked well for me, might help someone else out.

 

[qwerty]

People still let the bike idle until it warms up? I wonder if the extended idling is part of the problem?