[dbreinich]

Hello,,,



My son found a 1997 TW on C-list, and he bought it for $100 not running...Its in below average condition. It sat for almost a year.



We got the bike to run, and he is very excited, but we cant get the clutch to disengage...if we put it up on a block, it will shift through all the gears, but still wont disengage....



The Crank shaft cover above the chain has a hole in it, I really dont know where to start to diagnose this...I'm try to help my son get his first bike going, but I'm just not that knowledgeable about dirt bikes..



Any help would be appreciated.

 

[qwerty]

Is the clutch cable hooked up on both ends, the spring properly fitted to the little lever atop the engine case, and everything adjusted properly?



The hole won't bother anything as long as the oil passage to the outboard countershaft sprocket bearing isn't damaged.

 

[dbreinich]

Yes cable is hooked on both ends, the spring clip is on. It moves when we squeeze the clutch lever, but it just wont seem to disengage.



Thanks very much for the quick reply.



The hole is just above the chain, it hold oil, and it doesnt seem to effect the chain movement or guides.

 

[rm_hm]

Is there any sign of water in the engine oil?? Might have rusted something together?









From a old post by Polar Pilot



" Try moving it while in gear with the engine not running .

Put the transmission into 5th gear, pull the clutch in and try rocking the bike forward and back to break the plates free"





sanhozeezee had this problem

"i just changed my oil again and this time i switched to rotella 14-40 (non synthetic diesel oil). when i started the bike and put it into gear the bike stalled. seems like now i have too much clutch grab! i tried to adjust the clutch but nothing. almost like the plates at stuck together i just dumped the rotella and went back to mobil1 and problem solved. shifting is much smoother and no notchyness"

 

[dbreinich]

There was a lot of water in the oil...First thing I did when we brought it home was degrease it and wash it with a hot water pressure washer...Unfortunately the gasket around the crank case was bad, and we got a lot of water in the motor...



Tried to get most of it out. Ran 2 quarts of new oil through it.



I am going to try the 5th gear trick.



Thanks you very much. I am not familiar at all with how a wet clutch works, but that would make sense....

 

[mrlmd]

My Ninja 250 used to do this if it wasn't ridden for a while (problem with having too many motorcycles). It would develop "sticky" clutch plates, lurching forward in gear with the clutch pulled in when you tried to start it. Like Rich said, referring to Polar Pilot's old post, try rocking it forward and back and it should break loose and then roll with the clutch pulled in. The plates stick together from the cohesive force of a very thin layer of oil and usually that's all it is. The choice of oil may matter a little too, sometimes it happens more with the synthetics as the oil layer between the plates may be even thinner after sitting for a long time. The best cure after you break it free is to RIDE THE BIKE and prevent the atrophy of disuse. Good luck, hope that's all it is.

 

[dbreinich]

To everyone who helped...THANK YOU....I changed the oil to a better quality, and let the bike heat up..Put it on a stand..Ran it up to 5th gear, and pressed the rear brake brake, and it broke free Clutch works like a dream....





Thanks, Again....

 

[qwerty]

I've been fretting over using the "right" oil for 45 years. Oils have become so specialized I've given up finding less expensive alternatives. My motorcycles take one oil, generator and pressure washer another, minivan a third, airplane a 4th, the wrecker I drive a 5th.





Now I only use oils specifically brewed for motorcycles with wet clutches. Any oil with "low polluting" on the label has the potential to waste your cam and followers. Any oil with "fuel saving" has the potential to waste your clutch. Any motorcycle oil claiming to be for V-twins is suspect.

 

[RodneyReed]

I've come to the same conclusion. When you do the math, the amount of money you could potentially save on oil vs. the potential issues you might have just aren't worth it. Plus, you get a headache trying to figure out all the pros and cons.



The only two things I have that take the same oil are my TW and my Quadsport Z400. Everything else has it's own unique oil.

 

[mrlmd]

For a wet clutch, you can't use any automotive oil that has "friction modifiers" or says "energy conserving" on the label. Use a motorcycle-specific oil only, whether dyno or synthetic.

 

[qwerty]

For a wet clutch, you can't use any automotive oil that has "friction modifiers" or says "energy conserving" on the label. Use a motorcycle-specific oil only, whether dyno or synthetic.

Not just any motorcycle specific oil, but one that specifically lists safe for wet clutches. V-twin oil is not always safe for wet clutches.



The esiest to find oils for me are Havoline 4 Stroke dino (in stock at O'Rielly's and Advance), Castrol 4T Racing synthetic (stocked at O'Rielly's and Advance, but I don't use because I'm boycotting BP, who owns Castrol), and Mobil 1 4T Racing (can be ordered by the case). I use the Mobil because it is synthetic and not BP.

 

[jeffreyloxley]

Not just any motorcycle specific oil, but one that specifically lists safe for wet clutches. V-twin oil is not always safe for wet clutches.



The esiest to find oils for me are Havoline 4 Stroke dino (in stock at O'Rielly's and Advance), Castrol 4T Racing synthetic (stocked at O'Rielly's and Advance, but I don't use because I'm boycotting BP, who owns Castrol), and Mobil 1 4T Racing (can be ordered by the case). I use the Mobil because it is synthetic and not BP.

Qwerty, any pros or cons to using Yamalube? I saw it at the dealership and wondered if it was simply an overpriced version of something I could get at Walmart for a lot less. Appreciate your insight. Jeff

 

[peruano]

dbreinich, Tell me what you need. I.E. What has the hole in it. I have a '93 motor that is loosing parts fast, and if I have what you need its yours for the cost of the postage. you can P.M. me. Tom

 

[shocker]

a $100.00 TW. I have a front wheel assembly for that price! And now you have it running. WOW!