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Discussion Starter #1
Hey guys,



I moved across the country today, and had my bike transported here. When it arrived, I discovered the clutch would not disengage at all. It's my only transport at the moment, so I really need to fix it urgently! Here are the details:



1) If I start it in neutral, pull the clutch in and change to first, the bike lurches forward and dies.

2) The clutch lever is fine

3) The adjustments, tension and cable are fine

4) It's pulling that arm piece above the crankcase exactly how it used to

5) Sometimes it feels like I've reached the top gear, but then if I roll the bike a bit, I can shift higher or lower again.

6) I was riding it for hours since two days ago, so it hasn't been standing

7) I tried the trick of putting it in 5th and rolling back and forth, but it didn't do anything

8) It's got a new litre of Castrol GTX 20W-50 which I've been using the whole time without a problem

9) I can kickstart it

10) I can see amazing mountain trails from my house, and can't ride them:(



I took the crankcase off today to see if I could see anything inside, but after I had it off, I didn't have a clue what to do next:/



If anyone can help, I'd REALLY appreciate it. Please let me know if I can provide any other info or whatever.
 

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Hey guys,



I moved across the country today, and had my bike transported here. When it arrived, I discovered the clutch would not disengage at all. It's my only transport at the moment, so I really need to fix it urgently! Here are the details:



1) If I start it in neutral, pull the clutch in and change to first, the bike lurches forward and dies.

2) The clutch lever is fine

3) The adjustments, tension and cable are fine

4) It's pulling that arm piece above the crankcase exactly how it used to

5) Sometimes it feels like I've reached the top gear, but then if I roll the bike a bit, I can shift higher or lower again.

6) I was riding it for hours since two days ago, so it hasn't been standing

7) I tried the trick of putting it in 5th and rolling back and forth, but it didn't do anything

8) It's got a new litre of Castrol GTX 20W-50 which I've been using the whole time without a problem

9) I can kickstart it

10) I can see amazing mountain trails from my house, and can't ride them:(



I took the crankcase off today to see if I could see anything inside, but after I had it off, I didn't have a clue what to do next:/



If anyone can help, I'd REALLY appreciate it. Please let me know if I can provide any other info or whatever.


Is the spring still in place on the arm of the clutch or did the spring come off during transport?
 

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Sometimes the clutch plates will stick together but usually that happens after the bike sits for awhile.I had an XL250 years ago that used to do that and every spring they would stick.I used to push start it in gear and run it through the gears until it freed up.Didn't take long.

Is the Castrol GTX motorcycle specific oil?
 

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If the bike was good before it was transported, file a claim immediately with the carrier. Transporting should not cause the clutch to not disengage.



Take a peak under the rubber dust cover where the cable meets the lever perch and make sure the outer cover is still in the knurled adjuster. Very possible that during transport, loading, or unloading, the bike fell or nearly fell and was lifted or caught by the clutch cable, pulling the cable outer from its place in the adjuster. Such a forcefull pull could easily damage something inside the cases. With the right side cover off, pull the lever and watch the pressure plate to see if it moves when you squeeze the lever. If not, I expect the push lever assembly or something in the push rod mechanisms is broken inside the crankcase halves. Splitting cases to effect repair is very labor intensive and can be a very expensive fix.



Castrol GTX is not JASO MA certified and is probably not appropriate for use with wet clutches. Fact is, GTX killed Tdub's original clutch.



Also, Castrol is owned by BP, which supports terroism (advocated for the release of the Lockerbie bomber) for it's bottom line gain, if things like that matter to you.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Thanks for the advice. Flip, I'm going to be so bleak if that's actually what happened. I'm never having it transported again! Is there anything I must watch for when removing the right side cover?
 

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Easy on the bolts, they're easy to strip. I'd try letting it get good and warm once then try shifting into gear a few times before I tore it down.

Mine does that at times, but think its the clutch adjusting nut in the middle of the clutch basket, under that cover that needs adjusted. I'm waiting for a gasket to tear into mine.

I'd think a lighter oil would slip better, but I'm no expert.
 

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Easy on the bolts, they're easy to strip. I'd try letting it get good and warm once then try shifting into gear a few times before I tore it down.

Mine does that at times, but think its the clutch adjusting nut in the middle of the clutch basket, under that cover that needs adjusted. I'm waiting for a gasket to tear into mine.

I'd think a lighter oil would slip better, but I'm no expert.
Before you do anything else either warm up the bike really good or change that oil to a lighter weight. My bike did a similar thing with with 20 -50 until it was warmed up.
 

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Yes inspect all cable stuff but sounds like you have



Half a can of seafoam in the crankcase



Warm it up then work the clutch full range like 20 times



Change oil to some real oil 10 something 10-40



Wallyworld sell both seafoam and real MC oil here in CT



If case is off still then you should see movement when clutch lever is moved



Did you notice the mileage on the Odometer before and after the move?
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Unfortunately I didn't check the mileage, I had the key though. I took the right cover off (3 hours later due to a stripped bolt, gfl wasn't kidding). Everything looks good, gears are prime, clutch plates are moving when I pull in the clutch lever, nothing suspect. I'm so confused now. If I push the bike forward in 1st, whether on or off, lever in or out, it's still like pushing it into a wall. I might have to take it into the dealer on Monday. Goodbye savings:( I REALLY wish I could fix it myself' but I'm scared I just cause more damge, cause I really can't see anything wrong. I'm really confused by this:/
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Unfortunately I didn't check the mileage, I had the key though. I took the right cover off (3 hours later due to a stripped bolt, gfl wasn't kidding). Everything looks good, gears are prime, clutch plates are moving when I pull in the clutch lever, nothing suspect. I'm so confused now. If I push the bike forward in 1st, whether on or off, lever in or out, it's still like pushing it into a wall. I might have to take it into the dealer on Monday. Goodbye savings:( I REALLY wish I could fix it myself' but I'm scared I just cause more damge, cause I really can't see anything wrong. I'm really confused by this:/
 

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You did say you pulled the clutch and did see the plates moving but didn't specify if the plates could be seen moving seperately or just the clutch pack moving. Did you verify that the clutch freeplay adjustments were within spec. If all adjustments are good it sounds like the clutch plates are refusing to let go. If you still have the right cover off and feel comfortable doing the work, remove the clutch discs and plates. There is a link to the manual on this site if you don"t have one. The point you are at a clutch removal is quite easy. If at that point the engine is free from the transmission you know for sure the clutch pack is needing replacement. Inspect the clutch basket and ensure there is not significant wear on it which would suggest replacement as well. Use proper motorcycle oil which is compatable with wet clutches when you are done. Good luck.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
When I pull in the clutch, sometimes just the cover moves (the silver top plate), sometimes 2, 3 or more move. Randomly. The clutch adjustments are right. I don't think they would affect it SO drastically though anyways. If I remove the plates, do I not need a Torque Wrench to put them back? Is it bad to run the engine without oil in? Cause I heard you can't really diagnose a clutch with the engine off, but I'm scared to run it without oil since it's a wet clutch. Ps, if I do run the engine, the clutch still doesn't work.
 

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When I pull in the clutch, sometimes just the cover moves (the silver top plate), sometimes 2, 3 or more move. Randomly. The clutch adjustments are right. I don't think they would affect it SO drastically though anyways. If I remove the plates, do I not need a Torque Wrench to put them back? Is it bad to run the engine without oil in? Cause I heard you can't really diagnose a clutch with the engine off, but I'm scared to run it without oil since it's a wet clutch. Ps, if I do run the engine, the clutch still doesn't work.
It sounds like everything up to the clutch is working. If you remove the pressure plate by removing the four screws(1/4 turn at a time for each) untill pressure from the springs is gone, you can then remove the pressure plate, springs, discs and plates along with the actuating rod and the small round beating on the end of the rod. With all this off you should be able to turn the motor over with the kick starter while the trans is in gear. Do not run the engine with no oil. You do not need a torque wrench to reinstall but don't overtighten the screws. Unless the clutch basket is seized together the engine should turn over with the trans in gear. Remove the spak plug to make it easier to turn the engine over by hand. Take pictures as you go to aid in reassembly. If I'm missing a step or am way out to lunch on this anyone feel free to chime in. It's been a while since I had that side of the bike apart and I'm doing this from memory, which sometimes seems to need a tune up of it's own. Good Luck This is the only picture I have of what the clutch basket looks like with the plates removed. The outside cogs(connected to the engine) should turn separately from the inside cogs( connected to the Transmission) .

 

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Discussion Starter #15
Hey everyone, thanks for the help so far. This is how far I've gotten: I seperated each clutch plate to make sure they weren't sticking, double checked that the plates were moving out enough, checked all adjustments again, and still no go. What I can say is that if I put it in 5th and pull the clutch, I can roll it foward. Now, if I keep the clucth in, and work back to 1st gear, it can still roll forward, but get's LOTS of resistance. If I'm back in first, let the clutch out and back in again, then it won't budge again (as if I haven't pulled the clutch in). I've also noticed I can't kickstart it now. It locks in, but when I kick down, there no sound of the engine trying to start. Flip, this is really bringing me the blues:( I didn't pull out the plates, cause it all looks in really great condition, so I wasn't sure why I would need to. I'm so stuck!:/
 

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Hey everyone, thanks for the help so far. This is how far I've gotten: I seperated each clutch plate to make sure they weren't sticking, double checked that the plates were moving out enough, checked all adjustments again, and still no go. What I can say is that if I put it in 5th and pull the clutch, I can roll it foward. Now, if I keep the clucth in, and work back to 1st gear, it can still roll forward, but get's LOTS of resistance. If I'm back in first, let the clutch out and back in again, then it won't budge again (as if I haven't pulled the clutch in). I've also noticed I can't kickstart it now. It locks in, but when I kick down, there no sound of the engine trying to start. Flip, this is really bringing me the blues:( I didn't pull out the plates, cause it all looks in really great condition, so I wasn't sure why I would need to. I'm so stuck!:/
Did you change that oil or let the bike warm up my bike does exactly the same thing with 20 50 in it. I can't see where you say you changed it.I cant say this strongly enuff change that oil!!!
 

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You are probably thinking that the 20 50 worked fine before. I am going to take a wild guess and say that you came from a warmer climate and that is why you were using 20 50. Have you moved to some place cooler? It only takes 10 or so degrees for this problem to show up with that heavey an oil.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
You are probably thinking that the 20 50 worked fine before. I am going to take a wild guess and say that you came from a warmer climate and that is why you were using 20 50. Have you moved to some place cooler? It only takes 10 or so degrees for this problem to show up with that heavey an oil.
I wish I had seen this post before spending a ton of cash on a mechanic last night ha ha, sigh.... Least I know for next time, all a learning curve. My bike wasn't starting as well cause I had accidently pinched the wires when I put back the left case. Yes, I'm an idiot ha ha, but a learning one. It's really great to be back on my bike again. Have to put in new brake fluid now since the courier guys drained it. Thanks so much for all the help, this has definitely become one of my favourite forums:)
 

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I wish I had seen this post before spending a ton of cash on a mechanic last night ha ha, sigh.... Least I know for next time, all a learning curve. My bike wasn't starting as well cause I had accidently pinched the wires when I put back the left case. Yes, I'm an idiot ha ha, but a learning one. It's really great to be back on my bike again. Have to put in new brake fluid now since the courier guys drained it. Thanks so much for all the help, this has definitely become one of my favourite forums:)
What was the problem ? According to the mechanic.
 

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What was the problem ? According to the mechanic.
Based on his reply to my post I am pretty sure he is going to say the problem was the 20 50 oil he was using. At around 45 50 degrees it becomes like molassas on the plates and won't let them seperate. My bike does it when I use it. The trick is to let it warm up. Or change to a lighter oil. To bad he went through all that trouble. I feel kinda bad that I wasn't more forceful in telling him earlier.
 
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