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Discussion Starter #1
Is this a problem for anyone else? The past couple of mornings has been very difficult to start. The low's were around 25-30F. After holding the starter in for much longer than I would really like, it started up. Is this a result of the oil being 10w30? Would getting something like 5w30 or even 0w30 help out with cold starting?



Yes there was gas in it, choke open, electrical stuff all works perfect. In normal temperatures it starts up right away, no problem at all.
 

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I give it a little gas with no choke and it starts up fine. Is there something wrong with doing it that way?
 

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cold mornings for me too in ct. when my tw is cold i start it with half choke.two quick turns of the throttle before i push the start button. sometimes i give it some gas while cranking but its fires right with ease so far. ive heard some tw's dont like cold but not everyone says that about theres.
 

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We have 2 2007 TW's.

Mrs. Trip's fires up right away...never even need the choke.

Mine, have to use the choke to warm it up.

Go figure!
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Thanks guys for the responses. Do you guys all use 0w, 10w or 20w oil? Last winter I had similar hard starting with my truck when I was using 15w30 and it was below freezing. As soon as I changed oil to 0w30 it had no issues starting. This was my first inclination, but then again I've never owned a motorcycle before and wasn't sure if it was normal to have a little difficulty to start when it's cold.



Jdub- I just feel like I have to crank it to the point where the battery starts to lose power.



I'll try the half choke tomorrow morning.
 

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Try slightly twisting the throttle for about three seconds while pushing the starter. If it still wont start, then try it with the choke. Have you adjusted the pilot screw? I had similar issues and an occasional pop on decel before adjusting it.
 

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Properly jet the carb. Factory settings are way too lean for cold. Tdub can be coaxed to start down to mid-20s with no enricher. Starts right up but won't take throttle at ~40.



At ~40, I hold Tdub vertical, use half enricher, fires right up, pull on gloves, ride 100 yards in 2nd, push enricher in, ride off normally.



At ~ 25, I hold Tdub vertical, use full enricher, fires right up, push enricher half way in, pull on gloves, ride 100 yards in 2nd, push enricher in, ride off normally.



At ~10, I hold Tdub vertical, use full enricher, firees right up, pull on helmet and gloves, ride 100 yards in 2nd gear, push enricher half way in, ride another 100 yards, push enricher all the way in, ride off normally.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Thanks for all the ideas. It was only 38 this morning and I did the half choke. Two twists on the throttle prior to starting and it fired up after a 8-10 seconds holding the starter. I plan to take the carb off and do a clean and now re-jet this winter.
 

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i got the same temps you are having as well. right now i run a #130 main jet, #35 pilot jet and im 2.5 turns on the pilot screw. aftermarket exhaust. my tw loves this colder air temp and really runs good. 45 degree this evening and the tdub just sucked up the cold air!!!!!! and a good carb clean is good idea.
 

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I installed an E3 spark plug the other day, and although I haven't noticed any improvement in horsepower <snicker>...the one thing I have noticed is easier cold starts! I pull the choke out fully, give her one or two cranks and she's off!

The problem with the E3's is that it takes a different size socket, so you need to add this to your tool kit!
 

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10Wxx oil is good down to 10*F. xx can be 20, 30, 40, or 50. Doesn't matter.



I've ridden down to 7*F with 10W40 with no problems, but Tdub is kept in a garage.



5W and 0W are way to thin for a TW's 1960s manufacturing tolerances and will too quickly bleed out under load, allowing metal-to-metal contact resulting in really bad things happening.
 

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0w30's are all PAO (expensive) type synthetics. The German Castrol type is actually a thicker than average 30w under heat.



The problem is none of them are motorcycle oils (not much of a cold weather motorcycle market) so the old energy conserving/cat compatibility problems.
 

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Good point, PJ, but I wouldn't worry about the hot viscosity (30) as much as the cold (0). I would worry about the lack of extreme pressure additives and the inclusion of friction modifiers that would damage the clutch.



I stopped using Castrol products. Castrol is owned by BP, which supported releasing convicted terrorists to gain favor with Libyan oil sources. Not to mention, Castrol GTX wiped out Tdub's clutch.
 

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My 2005 will not start when it is cold. It is 45 now and she will not start.

Some days if it does start, it is with the choke off (in) and no throttle. If I even crack the throttle a little it dies.



If I can get it to start and let it lub lub lub a little after it starts I can sometime go half Choke and it will rev up and be fine.



If I wait until the Outside temp warms up, it starts and runs fine.



So I know everyone says to properly tune the carb. I need some starting guidance because I'm not exactly sure what that means or how to do it. In my case how do I know if it is lean or rich. Which way do I turn which screw. Do I need to shim the needle? Rejet? I have read the sticky and now I am even more confused. I have done carb work before on crotch rockets (jets, sync etc...) but it was 15 -20 years ago and I honestly cant remember shit. It all seems so familiar but... for some reason I feel lost. Should I just take it to a dealer? Could it also be the valves need adjusting?



Here is a picture of the plug.







Any help would be greatly appreciated.



Thanks

Sean



I think it is just too late maybe I will re read the guide tomorrow and I'm sure I can figure it out.



Update: after thinking about it, this is what I came up with. I took off the seat charged the battery and then got the hair dryer out. I set it to low and shoot warm air into the airbox opening under the seat and of course she starts up and I pull out the choke she revs up and I ride off a few minutes later. SO that works but it is no Fix. But it will get me to work this morning...yikes its after midnight.



If someone can help me out an tell me if I'm off track here.

When an engine is set up and tuned to run at sea level and then you go up in altitude the air becomes less dense and your bike would be running too rich. Therefore you need to lean it if you intended to stay at that altitude/air density.



The same can be said about temperature. When it is warm out and the bike is tuned and running fine as the air gets colder the air becomes more dense and now you would be running too rich. Which I think is my problem. I think my bike it too rich at these temps at 400' MSL. My plug looks like it has been running too rich to me, can anyone confirm that? Also it dies when I give it more throttle hence Im thinking it is too rich. There also seems to be some oil residue in the bottom of my air box and I can see that the lowest part of the air filter has oil on it. The confusing part to me is doesn't pulling the choke/en-richer out make it more rich? If I can get mine to start with no throttle then pull out the knob to the first detent all is goes well. Hell I just went back over the sticky guide and now Im thinking that plug looks to lean, and it dies when throttle opened is under too lean. So confused!



I am also confused about the needle going up or down. Up would make it more rich? down lean? Also confused about the jet size numbering. As the jet size(number) gets bigger the hole in the jet has a larger diameter, would run richer. So I would need a smaller jet? Then I'm also confused about the screw that everyone seems to say turn it out 2 1/2 turns. What does this screw do? Does turning it in make it leaner or richer? Sorry if this is rambling on but its late and this has been driving me crazy lately and I want to get my head wrapped around it.



Thanks
 

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Bigger jet number is richer.



Too rich off idle, open throttle, engine bogs then revs. Too lean off idle, open throttle, engine dies. Stock jet is too lean under 7000ft altitude.



First, do a complete engine tune and service to eliminate any other potential problems. Then worry about the carb.
 

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First, do a complete engine tune and service to eliminate any other potential problems. Then worry about the carb.




Why do you think there are other problems? What constitutes a complete engine tune? My bike is an 2005 mostly kept in the garage and regularly serviced. I have 3500 miles on it. Recently I have changed the oil, filter and adjusted the valves, replaced the plug and correctly gaped it. Tires have the correct air pressure. Chain is properly adjusted and lubed. All lights and cables work as they should. I run 87 octane non ethanol fuel only. Bike runs fine all the time, it is just hard to start when it is cold. Is there some other area of engine maintenance I am missing?



I think my problem is in the carb. It does what you say under lean, open the throttle and it dies. Only when it is cold out though. Right now it is in the 60's and starts and runs fine. In the AM's it has been in the 30-40's and I can't get it going. Can you tell from the plug picture if that is indicative of running too lean? I am well below 7,000 and have never changed the jets so I can only assume that it is in fact too lean.



I'm not so much worried about the carb, as I am getting to work on time in the morning. If I can't start the bike everyday to go to work when I need to, IT is useless. Any help is very much appreciated.



Thanks

Sean
 

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Why do you think there are other problems? What constitutes a complete engine tune? My bike is an 2005 mostly kept in the garage and regularly serviced. I have 3500 miles on it. Recently I have changed the oil, filter and adjusted the valves, replaced the plug and correctly gaped it. Tires have the correct air pressure. Chain is properly adjusted and lubed. All lights and cables work as they should. I run 87 octane non ethanol fuel only. Bike runs fine all the time, it is just hard to start when it is cold. Is there some other area of engine maintenance I am missing?



I think my problem is in the carb. It does what you say under lean, open the throttle and it dies. Only when it is cold out though. Right now it is in the 60's and starts and runs fine. In the AM's it has been in the 30-40's and I can't get it going. Can you tell from the plug picture if that is indicative of running too lean? I am well below 7,000 and have never changed the jets so I can only assume that it is in fact too lean.



I'm not so much worried about the carb, as I am getting to work on time in the morning. If I can't start the bike everyday to go to work when I need to, IT is useless. Any help is very much appreciated.



Thanks

Sean
I'm going to guess that the cold air is dense therefor more of it, causing the bike to become leaner. The picture of the plug would indicate a lean burn, from what I can see of it, suggesting a fairly lean carb setting. I'd also have a look at the air filter that you say is dripping oil into the airbox, may be too much oil in the filter. A good going over as you say you've done, before adjusting the carb, is certainly worthwhile. Good luck.
 

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I'm going to guess that the cold air is dense therefor more of it, causing the bike to become leaner. The picture of the plug would indicate a lean burn, from what I can see of it, suggesting a fairly lean carb setting. I'd also have a look at the air filter that you say is dripping oil into the airbox, may be too much oil in the filter. A good going over as you say you've done, before adjusting the carb, is certainly worthwhile. Good luck.


Ahhh OK so the colder air is more dense so now I don't have enough fuel so it is too lean, leaner than what it already was...which was too lean to begin with. This makes total sense now, for some reason I was thinking it was getting richer.



I wouldn't say the oil was dripping from the air filter. It seems that the inside bottom of the air box has a sheen of oil and it accumulates in the corner and the air filter wicked some of it up in the bottom left corner as you are looking at it installed.



I'm going to order some jets and shims and follow the guide. I think I have a good grasp on it now.
 

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Ahhh OK so the colder air is more dense so now I don't have enough fuel so it is too lean, leaner than what it already was...which was too lean to begin with. This makes total sense now, for some reason I was thinking it was getting richer.



I wouldn't say the oil was dripping from the air filter. It seems that the inside bottom of the air box has a sheen of oil and it accumulates in the corner and the air filter wicked some of it up in the bottom left corner as you are looking at it installed.



I'm going to order some jets and shims and follow the guide. I think I have a good grasp on it now.
Because the bike runs normally in warmer weather and is only hard to start when the mercury drops I would probably focus on the idle mixture screw first and then move on to the pilot jet. I believe the guide says to start with the high speed jet, which should have little if any effect on the start up and idle. When the bike will start satisfactorly in the colder weather then go to the guide and follow it for the rejetting procedures at the temperatures and allitude the bike is normally operated . My bike also suffered from harder start up in the colder weather and resetting the idle mixture screw helped a lot. I rejetted and shimmed afterwards and got rid of the annoying surge at steady mid throttle use, as well as more pull at WOT. Let us know what you find.
 
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