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Rode about 25 miles to my deer hunting spot to scout around today. Turned the bike around on a tight trail that deadends at the creek, and parked it, then went on about a 45 minute walk. When I got back to the bike the key was still on and it was dead, I must have killed it turning it around instead of shutting it off with the key. I managed to push the bike out to a better trail, and get it push started. Had to push start it a couple of more times today, until I took the seat off and figure out a bolt had vibrated out of the negative battery terminal, reinstalled it and battery is charging again. May have to invest in the kickstart kit.
 

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Prices I saw mentioned on here earlier in the year for the bay area yamaha kick start kit were around $200.
 

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Bummer:(



But did you get your Deer?
 

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What gear do you bump start in? I tried it in 4th, 3rd, 2nd and couldn't get it going.

I have a 92 with kickstart but it hasn't helped me at all. You need to have really powerful legs and after 10 or so kicks without starting I'm just dead, but BF has been able to do it when I can't. It's harder to kickstart when cold.
 

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What gear do you bump start in? I tried it in 4th, 3rd, 2nd and couldn't get it going.

I have a 92 with kickstart but it hasn't helped me at all. You need to have really powerful legs and after 10 or so kicks without starting I'm just dead, but BF has been able to do it when I can't. It's harder to kickstart when cold.
3rd gear works best. Kinda wondering why so hard to kick start? Usually TW's start with 1 or 2 kicks. How does it start with the electric starter and choke? Has the carb ever been adjusted or is it still adjusted lean from Yamaha?
 

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I just bought this bike and have not yet done a mechanical overhaul, that's the next project. Electric start pooping out and hard to start, it won't hold a charge so I'm ordering a Shorai battery to see if that solves the starting problem.
 

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Yeah, a new battery should fix the electric starting. You might also adjust or check the air/fuel mixture screw while you are working through the bike. It makes a big difference in starting.
 

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A tube of loctite for the battery terminal clamp will be cheaper than the kicker kit, but not nearly as prestigious on the web or on the trail. Seriously a kicker is a useful thing for those who park or ride the bike in remote areas (especially at the bottom of the hill).
Roll starts should work in 2nd too, but you have have a bit of speed.
Any bike that is having trouble starting with the electric starter is either in gear (clutch does not totally release and drags the starter down below critical speed) or has fuel or ignition problems. Seek and you shall find the problem and the solution. Good luck. Tom
 

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Having way more practice than I'd ever want, push starting the TW the last few weekends... in the deep insect infested woods and 95+ heat, I can say I like 2nd gear :rolleyes:... or a steep hill if one is near by. Believe it or not, I find it easier to push it up and then ride it down and pop the clutch, as opposed to pushing it and running along side it.

Mine wouldn't hold a charge, but had a new battery per the pervious owner in early June. Turned out that my rectifier/regulator was shot. They are about $20 on ebay for the cheap replacement ones. If you have a bad one they will eat batteries too... so worth checking on it.

Ordered the kicker from bikebandit and the lever came last night but the rest of the kit is on back order :( !

Also I have a battery tender plug on the bike, so I bought a Stanley LiIon+ (model SSLI I think) jump start for about $30. It keeps a charge for a year at a time they say and takes about 15 - 30 minutes to charge a dead car battery. Being LiIon it is very small and light too... so that will always now be in my bike gear!

Things to consider... hope it helps.
 

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Thanks chaz, some more things I will check. Had bike on charger yesterday, battery stayed charged but it will not start. Rolls over but won't fire up, so a fuel or electric issue is at hand. Tried kickstart, nothing.
 

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Sunshine, Are you sure you are in neutral when trying to start the bike? Just holding in the clutch lever is not enough to let the starter turn the engine fast enough. My bike almost never starts if its in gear with clutch depressed, and always (nearly) starts if in neutral. Many folks overlook this subtle difference so I suggest this as a potential fix. Good luck. Tom
 

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I have a 92 with kickstart but it hasn't helped me at all. You need to have really powerful legs and after 10 or so kicks without starting I'm just dead, but BF has been able to do it when I can't. It's harder to kickstart when cold.
DON'T "twist and kick!" If you do it will be next to impossible to start! It is a lesson I learned the hard way.

If cold or if it doesn't start on the second kick use the choke but the key is leave the throttle closed!
 

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I finally got around to ordering a Shorai battery, as recommended here on the forum. It was $100 but man is it light and has a suggested life span of 5+ years. I put it in the bike (no charging required) and it fired right up! It also seems to be 100 times easier to kick start and fires up on my first or second kick now (as compared to 20 tiring kicks before). I'm using the kick almost exclusively.
 

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I can't imagine my TW without a kickstarter. It has bailed me out many times when my battery was too weak to start it. I've recently installed a Shorai battery and just dismantled and cleaned the carb, so hopefully my kickstarting days are behind me. It's good to know I have the option just in case.
 
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