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Does anyone have an idea on how to remove the "hump" on the back of a cyclerack without welding?



I need to mount a large pelican case and seem to be stuck on the best way to remove that hump so the case can hang off the back.



I'm thinking about just cutting it off and then putting some flat iron across the back with some clamps. But there has to be a better way.



Or maybe some sort of shelf that raises the case up 3 inches. I'm looking for ideas.



Thanks.
 

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I would go directly to the source on that! Give the guys at cycle rack a call and ask their opinion. Judging by my interaction with them, they would be more than willing to help!
 

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Does anyone have an idea on how to remove the "hump" on the back of a cyclerack without welding?



I need to mount a large pelican case and seem to be stuck on the best way to remove that hump so the case can hang off the back.



I'm thinking about just cutting it off and then putting some flat iron across the back with some clamps. But there has to be a better way.



Or maybe some sort of shelf that raises the case up 3 inches. I'm looking for ideas.



Thanks.


I like the shelf idea. Or some kind of spacer. That way if you do something different later on, your rack won't be all butchered up.
 

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How about a nice diamond-plate aluminum auxilary fuel tank about 3 inches high and tubes to pass mounting bolts through to prevent oilcanning?
 

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Not sure why the "no welding" rule.



But if welding became an option I'd just cut through the tubing on short straight section to the left and right of the hoopty thingy, pivot the whole thing 90 degrees to the rear til it layed flat, then tack and weld it.



A nice flat rack that's 3 inches longer in the bargain.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Not sure why the "no welding" rule.



But if welding became an option I'd just cut through the tubing on short straight section to the left and right of the hoopty thingy, pivot the whole thing 90 degrees to the rear til it layed flat, then tack and weld it.



A nice flat rack that's 3 inches longer in the bargain.


Just because I don't have a welder is all. I guess I should consider a decent wire welder someday.



I think I'm going to do a similar mod as your suggestion. I'm going to cut off the back loop so that the rack has two ends pointing directly backwards. Then I will plug the holes with some end caps. After that I can clamp a piece of aluminum angle across the back and use that as a mounting plate. I just need to figure out the attachment from rack to angle piece. It should be semi easy. I'll stand in the homer hardware isle until I come up with an idea.



I contacted Don at Cycle Racks and he explained they don't make a humpless one because of the jig to bend them. He also suggested a cut and weld with the tongue out the back. I'll keep the piece I cut off just in case.



I like the gas tank idea the best. But after looking at the pelican case I want to mount 4 inches higher it looks silly. I need a large case for all my things.



Thanks for the feedback all.
 

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Larry, I was about to make a suggestion I saw a friend make on his rack, but I see you mentioned a similar one, so I'll just "second" what you mentioned. My friend wanted to place a storage case on the back and the "hump" was in the way, just like your situation. He cut the "hump" tube section just past the last cross tube and called it good. He kept the piece he cut off so he could weld, or get it welded back on if need be. He felt he didn't need the hump section as the case was secured onto the rest of the rack.



Good luck with your project.
 

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[quote name='lizrdbrth' date='11 May 2011 - 01:23 AM' timestamp='1305094994' post='18180']

Not sure why the "no welding" rule.



But if welding became an option I'd just cut through the tubing on short straight section to the left and right of the hoopty thingy, pivot the whole thing 90 degrees to the rear til it layed flat, then tack and weld it.



A nice flat rack that's 3 inches longer in the bargain.

[/quote



That's what I did to mine, I have a Givi and to remove it it must slide back, just cut it on the 2 flat areas between the bends, put in on the floor and hit it with a large hammer, then it will fill the cut space better. turn it 90 degrees and take it to a local welder. It should take about 1/2 hr for him to weld it. Or buy a cheap 110 volt Lincoln welder from Home Depot, and teach yourself to weld, it's easy.
 

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I'm going to cut off the back loop so that the rack has two ends pointing directly backwards. Then I will plug the holes with some end caps. After that I can clamp a piece of aluminum angle across the back and use that as a mounting plate. I just need to figure out the attachment from rack to angle piece. It should be semi easy. I'll stand in the homer hardware isle until I come up with an idea.


Instead of plastic plugs, find some inserts. The kind that is used to mount things to the end of handlebars. You can then bolt a bar or angle across the back end directly to the rack.



Take the piece you cut off to the hardware store to check for fit.

 
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