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‘04 TW200, Jets+Shims, DGV2, S-moto fender, Acerbis Guards, ProTaper KX, JNS DOT LED BLK, Moose Rack
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Discussion Starter #21

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I should mention that this was a used wheel already stripped of sprocket and brake hub, which made positioning and clearance easier. I sealed it and mounted an atv tire. Two years later and I haven't needed to add any air.
 

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I'm really confused about this topic. I've NEVER had an issue breaking the bead (on a tubed tire) on any bike I've ever owned, with anything more than simple tire irons.

If I've installed the tire, I've been able to remove it easily, which leads me to think that there must be something in the way the tire is initially installed, that might be the issue.
So....those of you who have problems breaking the bead....what did you use as a lubricant to install the tire in the first place?
I ask because a lot of people say they use dish-soap....but I use dish-soap as an adhesive for grips...see where I'm going?
 

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I used C-clamps to break my beads loose until I bought a bead breaker tool. You could just let the air out except maybe a pound or two and catutiously do a couple of rear brake only power slides on the dirt. I bet that would break it loose.
 

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I'm really confused about this topic. I've NEVER had an issue breaking the bead (on a tubed tire) on any bike I've ever owned, with anything more than simple tire irons.

If I've installed the tire, I've been able to remove it easily, which leads me to think that there must be something in the way the tire is initially installed, that might be the issue.
So....those of you who have problems breaking the bead....what did you use as a lubricant to install the tire in the first place?
I ask because a lot of people say they use dish-soap....but I use dish-soap as an adhesive for grips...see where I'm going?
All of my other tires I have successfully broken beads without going to the extreme listed above, but that particular tw tire was of unknown age and after getting the tire off I found it had partially rusted on to the wheel. The tire was old enough that it was the old TW stock tread pattern, whenever they made those?
 

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👍🏻 I also read some folks say put the sprocket side down, when messing with this stuff, not the rotor, since it can take more of a beating - a bent rotor would suck.

Fortunately, I’ll be changing the rear, so no rotor to worry about.
And, also to save one's knuckles/hand in event of slippage at the wrong time.
 
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I'm really confused about this topic. I've NEVER had an issue breaking the bead (on a tubed tire) on any bike I've ever owned, with anything more than simple tire irons.

If I've installed the tire, I've been able to remove it easily, which leads me to think that there must be something in the way the tire is initially installed, that might be the issue.
So....those of you who have problems breaking the bead....what did you use as a lubricant to install the tire in the first place?
I ask because a lot of people say they use dish-soap....but I use dish-soap as an adhesive for grips...see where I'm going?
All I usually use is powder. Once in awhile I will use some Windex at the last if I have a stubborn one trying to get popped back up on the bead. The jack and trailer hitch trick has usually been reserved for the stubborn tubeless street tires on a sport touring bike or a cruiser.

Just tire irons for breaking the bead usually does it with some patience. However, it is always fun and entertaining to try new techniques.

Marty
 

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‘04 TW200, Jets+Shims, DGV2, S-moto fender, Acerbis Guards, ProTaper KX, JNS DOT LED BLK, Moose Rack
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Discussion Starter #32
Buy the BeadPro. First trailside repair, you'll thank yourself.
Oh, I don’t doubt it. Looks like a nice tool & Motion Pro seems to know it. I want it all, but I’m 90% street & champagne tastes crash into a beer budget...
 

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Oh, I don’t doubt it. Looks like a nice tool & Motion Pro seems to know it. I want it all, but I’m 90% street & champagne tastes crash into a beer budget...
Hey all...I have a brand spanking new Bridgestone TW204 ready to replace the OE 2004! rear tire. Yes, I violated every rule of keeping a tire waaay past it's prime. Guilty as charged.

I don't yet have tire tools & for my projected use, not sure if I can justify purchase of the "full kit" of tools I'd like to have, or would be ideal to have, for this task. (Been farkeling hard, lately).

I 'want' the Motion Pro BeadPro lever kit, but @ $55+, and only 'part' of the kit needed to do this job, I'm trying to avoid that hit, for a tool I may only use once.

Because the old tire's bead has been in place for 17 years, I'm not sure how hard I should expect it to be to unseat, but like a monkey trying to f a football, I came up with an "idea:"

Hold my beer...

What if... I use my mechanic's 3-ton floor jack along with the 2" receiver hitch on my SUV to position the deflated rear wheel's bead, horizontally, between the bottom of the hitch receiver under the back of the truck on (top side of tire bead), and the seat of the floor-jack (bottom side of tire bead)...

If I carefully positioned the wheel, so as not to damage it, do you think I would have success (with a helper), breaking the bead free by slowly pumping up on the floor jack? (squeezing the beads between the bottom of the hitch receiver box lip & the jack seat/saddle?

My logic: if I can break the bead free, alternatively - all I'd need then, is a set of tire spoons, maybe a couple MP Trail type BeadBuddy's, and a set of rim protectors to dismount & get the new tire mounted. This would save me the $55 for the MP BeadPro levers I may only use 1 time.

It will cost me nothing to try this, so I probably will give it a go, but curious if anyone's ever tried it before. TIA for any input!

Flame on... lol.

Happy Easter, too.
If you are keeping the old tire -use a sturdy c-clamp. If the tire is toast-use a sawzall.
 
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