TW200 Forum banner

1 - 17 of 17 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
63 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Yesterday morning I went out to hop on the bike for a run down the street. I disconnected the battery tender pushed it out of the garage and turned the key. The neutral light came on but there was a little click in the switch and it went dark. No lights, horn, starter etc. I checked the fuse, it was good but replaced it anyway. Checked the battery, fully charged. All connections seem tight and clean. So of course I came in an searched the forum. Today I went out and disconnected the lead from the ignition switch and after about 20 kicks (it was cold this morning) the bike started up and ran fine. It runs with the kick stand up or down, clutch in or out.

With the key in the on position and the bike running I plugged the ignition switch back in and the lights work and neutral light lights up. Signals work but no horn. If I turn it off and back on the lights don't come back on and no starter etc. I can kick it over easy and seems to run fine.

To me this is saying the ignition switch needs rebuilt/replaced. Is my thinking correct? Any suggestions if not?

Has anyone tried to rebuild an ignition switch?

Thanks
Matthew
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
343 Posts
Not sure what years will run without a battery (I bought a new batter for my 2015 and it died in less than a month, went to start in the middle of a ride and it wouldn't even light up a bulb).
Anyway...the symptoms you're describing really sound like a poor connection on a hi-current cable. Back to mine, with a battery in it that would not even light up a bulb, I could push start it and it seemed to work fairly normally (with the exception of the signals flashing a bit 'off'. So, by kick starting, you're doing essentially the same thing.
You didn't actually SAY that you could kick it over and it would start with the ignition switch plugged in, but that's what your 2nd paragraph said to me.....

I guess it depends on what works and what doesn't, but it sounds like a poor hi-current connection. They'll be okay for a low amount of current (think of only 1 strand out of 20 in a wire making contact..)..enough current to light the lights will pass through a poor connection, but as soon as it tries to haul the amps needed to crank, it 'overloads' that single wire and burns it and the connection is now open. Same with a battery terminal that's a bit corroded and only making contact in one small spot.
I'd go over the battery connections and follow the cables (ground and hot) and open up, clean, and secure each connection one at a time.

If I didn't get what I thought out of your description, well, clean the connections anyway. :) It's the Step 1 of electrical troubleshooting that everybody skips because 'they look fine'...somewhere around step 8, you end up back at Step 1 and realize you could have fixed it hours ago.
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
5,315 Posts
What he said ^^

As far as I know, on all years of the TW production, the ignition (CDI) takes its power directly from the magneto - all the key switch does is engage the lights horn and indicators, and the various cut-outs

This means that even if your battery is FUBAR, you can still start the engine - provided the rest of the bikes wiring is intact post ignition switch .......
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
618 Posts
If that doesn't work...
My experience with some batteries that are about to die: You can get a 12v reading, but there's just not enough amps to do the job. You may want to try another battery, or try some jumper cables from another battery/vehicle.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
63 Posts
Discussion Starter #8
Starting with the battery I worked my way down checking and cleaning the connections. The positive connection was a little suspect so I pulled it apart, cleaned, re crimped and re soldered it. Continued down the line. When I was done I turned the key and you guessed it...Nothing! After a few minutes to regain my composure I grabbed another battery and some little motorcycle jumpers I had made and hooked it up. Turned the key and everything glowed as it should. How can it be the dang battery!?!

I went through my file and found the paperwork for the BikeMaster Platinum II sealed battery. I installed it 3/16/16. It reads fully charged on the meter and when I put the charger on it it steps right up to fully charged and shuts off in about 20 minutes. I had this problem with my Vstrom awhile ago also. Battery is relatively new, seems to charge and stay charged but won't even click when you hit the starter. I'm not buying the most expensive batteries but I'm not buying the cheapies either. Very frustrating.

Thanks everyone for your advice and help.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,608 Posts
Starting with the battery I worked my way down checking and cleaning the connections. The positive connection was a little suspect so I pulled it apart, cleaned, re crimped and re soldered it. Continued down the line. When I was done I turned the key and you guessed it...Nothing! After a few minutes to regain my composure I grabbed another battery and some little motorcycle jumpers I had made and hooked it up. Turned the key and everything glowed as it should. How can it be the dang battery!?!

I went through my file and found the paperwork for the BikeMaster Platinum II sealed battery. I installed it 3/16/16. It reads fully charged on the meter and when I put the charger on it it steps right up to fully charged and shuts off in about 20 minutes. I had this problem with my Vstrom awhile ago also. Battery is relatively new, seems to charge and stay charged but won't even click when you hit the starter. I'm not buying the most expensive batteries but I'm not buying the cheapies either. Very frustrating.

Thanks everyone for your advice and help.
Wouldn’t mind seeing a few pics of your red bike when you get some time. Glad it’s fixed, albeit puzzling. Cheers
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,084 Posts
What is battery voltage?
a. Key off?
b. Key on?
c. While trying to crank?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
63 Posts
Discussion Starter #11
I'll get the numbers and some pics for you all tomorrow. If it stays the same there won't be enough voltage to spin the starter.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
343 Posts
How ironic would it be if I told you that the battery I mentioned in post #2, that I bought as peace of mind, that failed in the middle of a ride when it was less than a month old was.....
BikeMaster AGM Platinum II Battery - MS12-7C-A
I actually just turned my head and looked at it sitting on a shelf. Same as you...my Schumaker (sp?) maintainer checks it, THINKS it's cool, and takes a few hours to do its thing and the light turns green. Check with a voltmeter, 12.6v. Put in in the bike, turn the ignition on, and the voltage flops to a flat ZERO...then slowly recovers to around 10v.
The store I bought it from (online) didn't even question my request for a refund...just asked that I take a picture of the serial number and email it to them..refunded my money in record time, didn't even want the old (new) battery back. At the time it seemed way too easy, and thought maybe they had a run on those batteries crapping out soon after being put into service.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,084 Posts
I'll get the numbers and some pics for you all tomorrow. If it stays the same there won't be enough voltage to spin the starter.
Hope to be out riding, most the day, tomorrow, despite a wind warning (gusts up to 55 at Mt Charleston).
Should only be 20, gusting to 30, if I stay out of the mountains.

I searched and thought that I posted evaluation of battery reads, excerpted from the Sportster forum, but did not find it, so here is a link to that forum:

Voltage readings - why we need them - The Sportster and Buell Motorcycle Forum - The XLFORUM®
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
63 Posts
Discussion Starter #14
Walked out of work to 61 degrees today, came home and disconnected the float charger on the bike and proceeded to unload the truck. The wife even helped with the grain for her horses. Found out the at the feed store the tailgate won't unlatch but that's another forum I guess.

Anyway after about 20 min I put the voltmeter on the battery with the key off and it read 13.21, turned the key on and it immediately started dropping and bottomed out at .28, no headlight or neutral light came on. Guess I'll be shopping for a new battery in the spring.

SportsterDoc I read the article from the link and printed out a copy for my files, it's a good and easy to understand explanation. Thanks.

And here's a couple of pics from happier times.
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,608 Posts
That’s a nice two tone paint job. Like the shot at Great Smokies. Do you have info on that seat that was on in the field picture? Sorry about your battery. Do you think you can get a refund? Thanks and cheers
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
63 Posts
Discussion Starter #16
The seat was redone by a local guy here in Cincinnati. I asked for the side to side tucks or tuffs in an attempt to help me from sliding forward going down steeper hills. He did a nice job and turned it around in a day. I got the bike from a guy in Columbus, OH. It was all decked out with OSU colors and decals. I peeled them off but was too lazy to do anything about the paint.
I doubt I could get a refund at this point, besides I bought it in TN. Maybe I'll contact BikeMaster and see what they say.
 
1 - 17 of 17 Posts
Top