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Does anyone know how easy and how cleanly the decals and graphics can be removed from the plastic body? Thanks


The best way to do it is with a heat gun and goo gone. If your bike is older, and you take the stickers off you may notice the fading in the plastic. When I did it to mine it was pretty easy and looked alot better.
 

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  • This versatile adhesive remover contains no acetone and is safe for use on virtually any surface including, vinyl, leather, fabric, metal, and plastic. VOC compliant, its pleasant citrus scent is safe for indoor use.
Stock tank decals are more difficult then the ones on plastic
 

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I guess I lucked out when I did my 94,they came off real easy when I pulled real slow. There was some fading, but with some plastic polish and a buffer they came out great.I have read that the tank decal on that year is going to be a pain,cause it was clearcoated on top of the decal.Hopefully a media blaster can take care of that.
 

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I guess I lucked out when I did my 94,they came off real easy when I pulled real slow. There was some fading, but with some plastic polish and a buffer they came out great.I have read that the tank decal on that year is going to be a pain,cause it was clearcoated on top of the decal.Hopefully a media blaster can take care of that.


Even on the tank it shouldn't be a huge issue if you get it hot and maybe use a tiny blade or something to get started under it. After that, just buff the general area to smooth things back out.
 

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I use a hair dryer. They came right off my 2005.


+1 on the hair dryer, quick, easy, and no chemicals needed.



I guess I lucked out when I did my 94,they came off real easy when I pulled real slow. There was some fading, but with some plastic polish and a buffer they came out great.I have read that the tank decal on that year is going to be a pain,cause it was clearcoated on top of the decal.Hopefully a media blaster can take care of that.


Someone else tried blasting, and it left a "ghost" embossing of the old decal on the tank. makes sense, while the media is working through the decal to bare metal, it's taking even more metal off of the area around the decal.





Even on the tank it shouldn't be a huge issue if you get it hot and maybe use a tiny blade or something to get started under it. After that, just buff the general area to smooth things back out.


The tank decals are on top of the paint but under the factory clear coat. They're impossible to just peel off.
 

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The tank decals are on top of the paint but under the factory clear coat. They're impossible to just peel off.


Which is why I said to get it hot enough. In essence, you're getting the clear coat soft enough to goo a bit (goo gone or similar works well to loosen it up at this point, then just pulling the decal off, taking some clear with it, then buffing it out to smooth it over again. You can also use fine grit to do this, but media blasting isn't necessary.
 

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Which is why I said to get it hot enough. In essence, you're getting the clear coat soft enough to goo a bit (goo gone or similar works well to loosen it up at this point, then just pulling the decal off, taking some clear with it, then buffing it out to smooth it over again. You can also use fine grit to do this, but media blasting isn't necessary.


Have you had luck getting tank decals off a TW with this method?



I was under the impression that the only way to do it was to chemically strip the whole tank down to bare metal and re-paint from scratch.
 

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Have you had luck getting tank decals off a TW with this method?



I was under the impression that the only way to do it was to chemically strip the whole tank down to bare metal and re-paint from scratch.


It works, I won't say it's the quickest or easiest, but it's one way to do it and save the paint (although the clear will certainly suffer a bit). There's a lot of bicycle folks who have to deal with removing decals that have been coated over, so those guys usually have a variety of methods. Another part of this is just the age of the tank. It worked well for me because I was doing an '89 model that certainly didn't have all its clear coat glory of 1989 anymore, but with the buffing afterwards, it was nicer than before I got at it.
 

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It works, I won't say it's the quickest or easiest, but it's one way to do it and save the paint (although the clear will certainly suffer a bit). There's a lot of bicycle folks who have to deal with removing decals that have been coated over, so those guys usually have a variety of methods. Another part of this is just the age of the tank. It worked well for me because I was doing an '89 model that certainly didn't have all its clear coat glory of 1989 anymore, but with the buffing afterwards, it was nicer than before I got at it.


Thanks for this info. I didn't bother with all of that effort since I replaced my tank with a plain white Clarke anyway, but it's good to know that it's possible.
 
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