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Discussion Starter #1
.... I took a spill in the snow and bent the shifter.. I decided to ride back down the mountain to repair with proper tools.. the bike was stuck in 1st so I figured id ride down with the bike off and the clutch disengaged... Ill admit im new to bikes, but what did I do wrong? I thought if the clutch was disengaged it wouldn't 'burn up'... was the motor supposed to be running? Anyway, heres a vid of me bending the shifter.. and the 1st one is me coming down the mountain and eventually destroying the clutch....
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Yes the motor is supposed to be running...! You should have running the motor with the clutch disengaged.

Our bikes are wet clutch bikes..! Meaning the clutch eventhough disengaged needs a constant flow of oil to function. Oil will not low if engine is not running.
Sad story..! :(
 

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looks like you were doing pretty well in slippery, tricky trail before that low speed dismount.

i've done that before and leaned into the bike from the opposite side to bend the shifter back with my foot, i've also used a branch to bend it clear. i wouldn't have known to keep the motor running to lubricate it either.

hope you're up and running again soon.
 

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Too bad as you were doing so well conquering late season snow drifts. Handguards might be a good idea for your adventurous rides.
 

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Huh? I've coasted downhill many times with the engine off, albeit in neutral and not in gear.
 

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I coasted 8 miles in neutral down a mountain on Saturday without any problems. I'd like to know more about this coasting clutch phenomenon. Is it only a concern if the bike is in gear and the clutch lever is being held in?
 

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I coasted 8 miles in neutral down a mountain on Saturday without any problems. I'd like to know more about this coasting clutch phenomenon. Is it only a concern if the bike is in gear and the clutch lever is being held in?

I'm pretty sure that's the only way it will damage it.

Either way, you shouldn't ever excessively coast with the engine off because of the lack of lubrication within the gearbox and the countershaft that will be turning from the sprockets. I'd say if you want to coast for an extended period of time you should pop the chain off to be on the safe side.

I'm sure a few miles won't hurt the bike, but you should always be careful in making sure the engine is being lubricated properly at all times.
 

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I coasted 8 miles in neutral down a mountain on Saturday without any problems. I'd like to know more about this coasting clutch phenomenon. Is it only a concern if the bike is in gear and the clutch lever is being held in?
If you drove in gear i think the result will be much different..!
In neutral clutch is anyway not working..! The drive gears are not engaged and clutch is not the mechanism holding the flywheel from spinning..!
Actually even-though we call it NEUTRAL GEAR it is not a gear..!
We call Transmission is in NEUTRAL when drive gears are separated from the transmission itself..! (Not by the Clutch mechanism) Actually they are half way between gears..!

See the below diagram..! (click to enlarge)

tramission system.jpg


1. When transmission is in neutral drive gears are disengaged from the Transmission box(1) itself..! So the clutch won't have anything to do..!
2. But when the bike is in gear Clutch plates(2) are the mechanism used to keep the wheels from not spinning...!

So when we keep the bike in gear and turn of the engine, then tow the bike, clutch is working to keep the engine from not spinning...! And the engine is off and oil is not flowing, hence the heat generated by clutch plates are not dispersed properly..! So the clutch fails..! :(

But if we keep it in NEUTRAL, that means Transmission itself is keeping drive gears disengaged..! No Problem..! :)
But if we coast for excessive duration Transmission itself will fail without lubrication..!
So it is always said to disengage Chain(take off the chain) or what ever the final drive mechanism if we are to use coating or towing for excessive periods..! :)
 

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I may be wrong but how would it hurt the clutch with the bike in gear? Unless your letting it out to slow down then pulling it back in to roll. How do the clutch plates slip if the clutch handle is pulled in and held there? When the clutch lever is pulled arent the plates separated?
 

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I may be wrong but how would it hurt the clutch with the bike in gear? Unless your letting it out to slow down then pulling it back in to roll. How do the clutch plates slip if the clutch handle is pulled in and held there? When the clutch lever is pulled arent the plates separated?
All the clutch lever does is release spring pressure on the pressure plate, the plates are still in some contact with one another (but not under pressure) and thus still producing heat when spun rapidly.

If it is impossible to get the bike out of gear, and the motor absolutely will not start, and you are fortunate enough to have a downhill pathway to home or help. It is still possible to do what he was doing. You just have to STOP and let the clutch cool, often, very often....Or you could just remove the chain if you have the tools.
Boy scouts motto: Be prepared.

Shifters are like $15, they are light and small and easily packed. Stock ones can be bent back with a little ingenuity.
 

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think about this guys
If he was in first gear and had the clutch disengaged . How fast can we go in first gear ? 15 mph at say 9000 rpm? We got the clutch in and we hit 30 mph ! so we now have five 18 thousand RPM friction clutch plates spinning inside of a ZERO Zero , stopped clutch basket with stopped steel plates samwishing the spinning friction plates with only a few thousands of an inch of clearance between them . And we all know they are free floating and drag against each other to some degree.
The steel plates are doing engine RPM when we do our 9000 rpm drag race start. IN THIS CASE the clutch basket and steel plates are turning the 9000 engine rpm and spinning in a bath of oil with the friction plates stationary until we dropped the clutch and are brought up to engine speed as we smoke the rear tire . Normally there is only a few thousand rpm diff between the friction and steel plates when shifting gears and only for a split second during the shift. NOW How about we get a little crazy and hit 45 mph ! A 30 thousand RPM set of five clutch discs . WOW Wow wow . Can someone say FIRE!! . If he had been it neutral I THINK and let me say I am not 100 percent on this but I THINK the tranny would be spinning and lube the gears correctly cause its in its normal operating range

BTW I saw as high as 35 mph on the video with 25 being average . Any one have a tw that can go 35 or even 25 in first gear?

Norm in Arkansas
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Sad part is.. I bought some hand guards that day ... but they were the wrong size.. Theres some manzanita I pushed through earlier which tore my hands up pretty bad.. the vids probably still loading but I started a you tube page under the name Trailbiking-Oregon.. https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCIizvGWJ7FtAG17SAN-1jVg..
I'll admit right now I don't really know how to work all the video stuff.. but if you guys want to check out some of my dangerous solo rides.. check it out.. I ride a ct90 as well in some vids, attempting hill climbs and other stuff I shouldn't be doing.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Thanks a million for this.. I figured it had something to do with being stuck in 1st, ( even though I had the clutch lever pulled)..
Im about to replace the bent up shifter and take it to the dealer... and see if I can play dumb enough to get it replaced.. Thanks again, lesson learned.
 

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Discussion Starter #18 (Edited)
.. It looks like being in gear was the problem... I was about to grab a rock and beat the shifter back into shape, but I was still close to the tool van, and didn't want to strip my shifter mount (as this wasn't the 1st time I bent it back into form....) so.. lesson learned the hard way.. Carry proper tools, and Get bike in neutral/remove chain before extended downhill/towing!
 

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Some nice videos there bro! Thanks for sharing!
 
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