TW200 Forum banner

1 - 15 of 15 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
592 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
I stripped out the carb drain screw on my 2013 Tdub
Ordered a new one but noticed in the bag their is a steel washer,rubber o-ring and spring along with the drain screw

Will I need all this when replacing the drain screw?



Thanks
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
174 Posts
as per ron ayers it looks like it, but its called air screw.

27 4JP-14104-00-00 AIR SCREW SET

haven't been in the tw's carbs yet but all other drain screws i've done are sans any spring, that looks more like a pilot screw assembly.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
229 Posts
Yep AIR Screw

drain screw 4jp-14323-00-00
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,149 Posts
Thats the correct part I just had mine out this morning and the spring and o-ring stayed inside the bowl when I removed it. funny they call it an "air screw" but then again I guess it does does let air into the float bowl
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
229 Posts
Well I guess it would let gas out of the bottom of the float bowl BUT the fuel drain screw is in the side of the float bowel . hope you did not tighten it down too hard . Just might find your bike runs better is you back it out a turn or two

HOLDNON72 use www.partzilla.com might have to use a year or two earlier but there pretty much the same


Thats the correct part I just had mine out this morning and the spring and o-ring stayed inside the bowl when I removed it. funny they call it an "air screw" but then again I guess it does does let air into the float bowl
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
592 Posts
Discussion Starter #6
This is the one I stripped
I stripped the head not the internal carb threads
I was using a Phillips instead of a Jis screwdriver,but now I know and have the Jis screwdriver set.
Greenbomb why would a drain screw make the bike run differant?
As far as I know,you just lighly snug the drain screw

 

·
Registered
Joined
·
229 Posts
Greenbomb why would a drain screw make the bike run differant?

The drain screw would NOT . BUT the AIR screw would as it changes the idle mixture

And of course I did not get the full jest of Placerlode remarks . My Bad
Good to be informed thanks for the Pics and such .


"The only real mistake is the one from which we learn nothing."
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
19 Posts
I'm having the same exact question the OP originally asked in 2014. I now understand from reading the post that the screw itself is correct, but am I supposed to use the spring, washer, and o-ring or just discard those and use the screw since I'm using it as a drain screw. I don't recall these other parts coming out of the opening when I removed the one I threw away. (I did the same thing as the OP - stripped it out using a Phillips instead of a JIS).

So, do I use all of the parts or just the screw?

Thanks!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
19 Posts
Thanks for the quick reply, and thanks for the "Welcome". I'll do some profile improvements. I'm in Manatee County, FL and would love to ride with a group of TW folks!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,865 Posts
So this is kinda interesting. The pilot mixture screw and the bowl drain screw look a lot a like. Except the pilot mixture screw is brass and the drain screw is steel. All the carb parts pictures don't show any spring, washer and o ring for the drain screw. The pilot air mixture screw does have a spring, washer and o ring. That part is definitely a drain screw.

Either someone is smoking crack at the Yamaha carb parts factory and confused the two parts or they decided to add these parts to the drain screw. The second option makes more sense in light of the fact that they gave a replacement part number for it. Why would they add these? On the pilot Air screw the spring provides tension so that it can be left in an opened position with out it backing out and changing the mixture. Maybe that is the thought on the drain screw you wouldn't need to tighten it as much and the spring and washer keep it from backing out. The o ring helps it seal at less torque.

It looks like you have two options put the new drain screw in without the other stuff as it was before or try it with the added parts.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,149 Posts
the bowl drain screw has no o-ring or spring and I think Yamaha parts packers are mistaking that for the air mixture screw and adding those parts by mistake. Also that bowl drain doesn't need to be tightened or torqued just seated is fine. The taper seat in soft aluminum and the fine threads are enough to keep it in place with almost no pressure
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,865 Posts
Placerlode that's what I thought too but I think the key is the replacement parts number it's different. Both my bowl drain screws were really tight from the factory. Maybe because these are so tight and people are not using a jis screwdriver on them and stripping them out frequently they decided to add these part to improve and fix the problem. It doesn't fix the jis problem but if you only have to lightly turn them in to seal and not worry about it coming loose and leaking it is an improvement. And I agree with you once you loosen them they don't need to be cranked down to not leak with out that stuff. I don't think mine have a spring, washer and o ring in them but I never checked.
 
1 - 15 of 15 Posts
Top