Okay, it sounds like you're pretty with it. Hopefully you've grabbed the service manual and the 2001+ addition as downloads. I would start with the valve adjustment. It's a pretty quick and easy job, and if they are out they can be a source of poor performance as well as noise. The cam adjuster will be the new automatic model that has no manual adjustment. It can be noisy also, but it doesn't mean it's bad. If you wanted to by a gasket for it, all you have to do is remove it, and check that it does not push in. It automatically moves out as slack develops in the cam chain, then locks into that position. If it can be pushed back in...it's bad and needs to be replaced. If it's bad it can allow slack in the chain causing timing issues, noise, etc.
2006 non-cali will have the newer CV carb from Teikei. I would clean it first. Take it apart, learn it, see what number is stamped on your main jet. Order a float bowl gasket, a needle valve kit, and the pilot screw kit. I, too, am in the "if it's running fantastic, then don't dick with it!" camp, but if you're pretty competent, you don't rely on the bike as your primary transportation, and you want the experience...then go ahead and play. Make note of how it is set up stock though, what main jet it has, and exactly how much the pilot screw is out from a lightly seated position. You can farkle things up really fast and wished you'd left it alone, but if you know how to get back, you can have confidence to try to dial it in better.
The stock main jet is probably a 125 or 126. If you are really into tuning your carb, just order a 128, 130, and 132. The 128 is probably going to be your CO jet, the 130 is a good sea-level jet, and the 132 can be a good choice for sea-level at your +100 degree temps. Since they are about $6/ea, you may even want to order a 125. If you have a 126 stock, then you will have the whole range to try out. Plus, if you are running too rich now, or if you run really high in CO, you'll have the leaner jet to try. When you go to raise your needle you'll need some shims or washers, as they'll be referred to on the forum. Alot of users have run the stainless McMaster 1/8" shims with a .010" thickness to to dial it in with since raising the needle between .020"-.050" seems to be the sweet spot. Those cost about $10-15 for a pack of 25. The cheaper route is going to the hardware or hobby store for 2.5mm flat washers. They are usually around .020"-.025" in thickness, and are around $0.10/ea. I can't recommend strongly enough to take it on with patience and follow Qwerty's directions in the carb tuning thread to be successful.
I'll also quote Qwerty from
this thread for good info, "At normal altitudes, say sea level to 4000 feet, a #130 main, 2 flat washers pounded a bit thin, and 2.5 turns on the pilot is sweet, unless the air temp is really hot, in which case a #132, one flat washer under the needle, and 2.5 turns on the pilot screw will be a bit rich and will serve to lower engine temps a bit. If you want best fuel efficiency go with a #128, 2 flat washers under the needle, and 2.25 turns on the pilot screw. Higher than 4000 feet or so go with a #128, 1 flat washers under the needle, and 2 turns on the pilot screw. Above 7000 feet, #126 main, 1 washer, 1.75 turns on the pilot screw. That all works on Tdub, most of the time. YMMV."
