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Discussion Starter #1
On the side cover for the valves I have a stripped out screw head ... Have a slight clack on the 50 dollar wonder and the forward screw head is stripped out ...
 

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A )Do you mean you cannot remove intact valve cover screw?
B) Or this screw is broken off in engine's cylinder head ?
C) Or this screw's allen head recessed socket is damaged so as to be unable to turn?
D) Or is female threads in cylinder head damaged, i.e. stripped?
E) or something else?

A photo or better description might help us point you in right direction. Each possible problem has a solution. Certainly a quality EZ-out works if one does the prep work by drilling proper pilot hole which may be very difficult with cylinder on bike. We can help depending on the problem.
 

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If it is just the bolt head stripped out and not the threads, try some Vice Grips then replace it with a new Allen head bolt.

Good call asking for clarification Fred.
 

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I bought a very small pair of vice grips. They can lock on to a pretty small screw head. They have saved me several times.
 

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Those small vice grips I have would grab that screw head. I would go strait in, not try to get in from the side. Lock them as tight as possible and turn them with the pliers.
 

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OK, picture really helps, thanks.
Valve lash adjustments are actually made elsewhere than under this cover, never been in there,sorry. However if you must get in there, or wish to replace bad screw this might help; Your screw looks like common #2 Phillips head, not JIS ( JapaneseIndustrial Standard) like some other cross-bit screws on bike. Try fitting your best #2 phillips screwdriver,( or whatever fits damaged screw head best) then combine a twisting motion with light to medium tapping with a hammer on end of screwdriver. Often this hammering allows a better bite with tool while impact force helps loosen screw. Or use a impact screwdriver if you have one. Stock fastener in this location on my bike is a hex headed bolt. Good luck.
If adjusting your noisy valves is your real goal you can forget about this screwed up screw and follow valve adjusting threads found on this forum; use search engine or someone else may post an easy link for you to use.
I really like your fixing up the $50 wonder, what a good find.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
I have tried all of the above ... Hundred for the valve adjustment thread no joy... Internet doesn't get here till tomorrow so I have to deal with the dang phone
 

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manual impact got those right off for me, probably woudl still work if it isn't too buggered. if not i'd cut a large slit in it with a dremel and hope a regular flat screwdriver woudl get it, or even better a flat head manual impact.
 

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If you go the No. 2 Phillips route, grind off a little from the point and it fit's almost as well as a JIS.
 

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Thanks,that is a great tip Tommy for modifying US driver to fit Jap screws, i'll have to remember that clever trick. In this case I had
assumed the $50 wonder's previous owner had replaced factory fasteners with common US sourced #2 phillips screws . This assumption was based on my bike having hex headed bolts requiring ~8mm socket.
Littletommy, you seem to know TWs inside and out,what hides behind Flathats cover....cam and valve gallery? Any diagnostic and/or maintainance tasks to be performed there?
 

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^^ yep, cam sprocket and chain ^^ like he said.
 

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manual impact got those right off for me, probably woudl still work if it isn't too buggered. if not i'd cut a large slit in it with a dremel and hope a regular flat screwdriver woudl get it, or even better a flat head manual impact.

I assumed you already tried an impact screw driver. They work pretty well. You could cut a deep slot in the head using a fine tooth hack saw blade cut off on the end. Then maybe a regular screw driver would do the job. I think the mini vice grips would do it if you can find some.
 

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Squirt some WD40 or some kind of penetrating oil around it, tap on it with a hammer a few times, oil again, repeat. Then try the vice grips again or can you get a small chisel on the mangled head edge and tap it counterclockwise?
 

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Yes ,saturate this screw with either Kroil , PB blaster or similiar ,let it soak in for awhile , as stated above timing chain / sprocket .The exhaust valve cover in your photo is approximately at the 11-1130 o'clock position a bit above the exhaust pipe ,you'll see it better if you remove the gas tank....the intake valve cover is about 180 degrees to the rear of the head . There is a sticky on valve adjustment.
 

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This (not video) is kinda funny. A friend of mine swears by the square tip method. I have a set of long T handle phillips that let me push real hard. I used them a lot a long time ago

 

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Lots of good tips. Another to consider: I use the next size bigger than a number 2 phillips bit. It seems to fit the JIS fasteners quite well.

Also, a tip that I learned a long time ago is to use some valve grinding compound on the bit. If the screw head isn't wallered out too big it will help the bit grip it better.

An impact driver is the best, but if you don't have one of those put the bit in your screwdriver and fit a 1/4" wrench to the bit also. Push hard to keep the bit in the slots and use the wrench to apply the necessary torque.

As a last resort just drill the head of the screw off. Use a drill bit 1/16" to 1/8" bigger in diameter than the shank of the screw. Timing is important. You want to drill until the head of the screw pops off and no more. In other words stop and check it often, you don't want to drill through the head of the screw and into the cover. Once the cover is off you can just grab the screw with a pair of pliers or vise grips and twist it out. I've done this successfully quite a lot over the years.

Valve adjustment sticky is in the Technical Write-Ups part of the Technical Help forum, at the very top. Here's a link to it. Specs for the TW are slightly different than shown in the sticky, they are .002 to .004 of an inch for the intake, and .004 to .006 of an inch for exhaust. The adjustment should be done with the engine cold.

If the fasteners are cooperative removing the cam sprocket cover and lining up the mark on the cam sprocket with the pointer at the top of the opening is the easiest and fastest way to determine TDC. When those two marks are lined up it will always be TDC, assuming the cam timing is correct, of course.

Oh, here's a link to the manuals, if you don't have them already.
 
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