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Discussion Starter #1
Hey gang. So here's a little confusion in my world. So I normally commute back and forth to town to work, about 20 highway miles each way, no worries at 55 mph. Was on a moto camping trip with some buds, and the last 45-50 miles were highway. With around 10 -15 miles left, my speedometer needle started dancing. The next morning I went to investigate. During said investigation, I discovered when I pulled the clutch in,(motor not running) while in gear, it didn't disengage and would not roll freely. Neutral just fine. Now with the engine running it performs as is supposed to. Disengages when the clutch is pulled in, and reengages properly when released, However when the bike is off, It just doesn't work properly, neutral fine, but in gear with clutch pulled, doesn't roll freely, rolls a little, but with resistance. Adjusted clutch cable and still... Motor running, everything a-ok. Off, not so much. I'm no economer, but this just don't add up.
Is there something else more internal I should be checking out or am I dwelling too much on this? Speedometer doesn't dance anymore either, yet.
2900 miles on the bike.
Thanks, Mud n Guts y'all.
 

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The two issues are unlikely to be related

The “dancing speedo” is an indication of the cable about to give out – recommend you replace the entire cable, rather than just the “inner” – be careful to keep any kinks out of it, it’ll last a lot longer that way (the dealership may have messed up on the cable routing)

The clutch issue – “drag” with the engine off is usually indicative of “heavy oil”, either the wrong type, or the wrong viscosity. That the clutch functions without fault when the engine is running shows that the issue is relatively minor, so I would first go for the type of oil as the cause.

I have no idea of heat conditions in your area, but try 40w synthetic as a starting point, make sure it’s intended for wet multi-plate (motorcycle) clutches. Expect it to take a few miles before you see a difference …..
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I use Mobil 1 4T wet clutch full synthetic oil, huh?
I'll change the oil and see if that's the case, only takes 10 minutes and $7 so an easy fix if that's it. Thanks Purple. I normally don't take advice from the English, my good friend Steve lives in Oldham and he's parked a tractor trailer the hard way under an underpass so I tend not to follow his wisdom, but I'll go ahead and trust you.:p
 

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I’m as surprised as you that Mobile 1 4T should be the culprit, but it still makes sense to look at the oil first

As for “Steve” – Oldham has my sympathy’s ….

Again, no idea how long you’ve had this bike for, or exactly when you first noticed this “drag”. My own experience of TW clutches is that there is “some resistance” in pushing the bike in gear with the clutch in and the engine off, at least until you get it moving. When you think about the gap between the clutch biting or not, it’s not surprising. The viscosity of the oil is there and needs to be overcome, and the experience of pushing the bike around by hand is a lot harder than when the engine is running. Nature of the beast …..

As to your speedo jumping, the more I think about it, the more I think my initial assumption is correct. The inner cable meets resistance, twists, releases, and your speedo jumps. The problem with this is that the point of resistance wears down over time, and any worn off material clogs up the outer sleeve. My ’98 is going strong, so I can only infer that your 2018 cable is routed incorrectly ….
 

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...or cable just might benefit from lubrication if cable routing looks reasonable. I know Yamaha dealerships put their most experienced senior staff on assembling these twin packed crates of TWs so they couldn't possibly have made a mistake with NVCowboy's Rex T. Dubber, right?
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Thanks guys. I went to the dealership and picked up some Bel Ray 10 w 40 4 T, even though The Mobil 1 is the same I've always used. I also pulled the speedo cable, tapped it at the bottom to get rid of any "shavings" and lubed it with cable lithium. If that don't work I'll just replace it. And Fred, I agree, if you guys could see some of the Gomers we got at our dealership, whoa man!
 

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I have two TW's and both exhibit the same in-gear friction you described. I've always assumed it's oil related, as it goes away once the bike is warmed up. I'm running 10W40, which is appropriate for my operating conditions, and so long as the oil flows when starting, I just accept it for what it is. I guess a 5W40 could help, but I haven't found the drag annoying enough to seek a solution.
 

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Both of my 2018's exhibited the dancing speedo needle occasionally, the newer one hasn't done it in the last 1,000 miles. We used to call this "whiskers on the cable" Totally unrelated to the other issue.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
No worries kiddos, the LCpl is all cured now. No more dancing needle or drag. On to the next mission.
1. Mission Accomplishment
2. Troop Welfare
IN THAT ORDER.
 

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Clutch drag is a pretty common issue with SOME TWs. Unsure why or what causes it but the full synthetic oil usually cures it to some degree. I used to blame this on what I believed was a previous owner had used non MC wet clutch oil at some point in it's life. Apparently this is not the cause of your issue unless the dealership during initial set up by Gomer used some cheap crap oil. I am not sure about this but would suspect the bikes arrive at the dealership with oil in the sump from the factory and that should certainly be the correct type. I highly doubt any dealership should even have any non MC wet clutch oils in their shop but I sure have seen some lousy dealerships not to be trusted. Tell us this, after a ride and when the engine is still warm does the clutch still drag when not running the engine? That IMO would indicate your plates might have some glazing issues going on which could have been caused by too much slipping when starting off or while riding in rough areas where the clutch could have burned or overheated a bit. If your oil through the sight glass is very dark or very milky looking then it is past time for a change. Milky as in chocolate is an indication of moisture in the sump which is not good. Real dark could be just old oil that has been overheated and in need of change or your clutch plates burning and glazing over.

GaryL
 
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