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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Changing my oil for the first time and found that 18mm was to small but 19mm was loose and when I try to loosen nut start to round off bolt. May just need to get another 19mm hopefully fit better.
 

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2004 Tdub.
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I had a similar situation with mine. 90% of the damage here is from the previous owner. Try some vice grips and see if that helps. I ended up getting a 3 or 4 foot breaker bar and using that. That somehow got it off. Using a 19 mm I think
 

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Use only a 6 sided 19mm socket and it should help Mine isn't that bad but as you said the 19mm seems sloppy, I think next oil change I am going to dremmel or grind it down to an 18mm after I take it off just to dress it up with a better grip, and I'm cheap.
 

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Bought a nifty blue cnc aluminum replacement plug on ebay on ski-pros recomendation. Right around 10 clams as I remember. Works perfecto.
First oil change started to round the oem plug off with a wrench as well. Had to get a six point socket and a breaker bar to get the @#$%^ thing loose.
Yamahas torque spec is ludicrous for the drain plug. All it does is keep the fricking oil from running out the hole.
 

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Bought a nifty blue cnc aluminum replacement plug on ebay on ski-pros recomendation. Right around 10 clams as I remember. Works perfecto.
First oil change started to round the oem plug off with a wrench as well. Had to get a six point socket and a breaker bar to get the @#$%^ thing loose.
Yamahas torque spec is ludicrous for the drain plug. All it does is keep the fricking oil from running out the hole.
Yeah, but that oil is critical. You might want to keep it in there.
 

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Had the same issue and was recommended to used the little tool that comes with your factory tool kit. Works like a charm!
 

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Bought a nifty blue cnc aluminum replacement plug on ebay on ski-pros recomendation. Right around 10 clams as I remember. Works perfecto.
First oil change started to round the oem plug off with a wrench as well. Had to get a six point socket and a breaker bar to get the @#$%^ thing loose.
Yamahas torque spec is ludicrous for the drain plug. All it does is keep the fricking oil from running out the hole.
More like 12 bucks. Here's the link:
CNC Aluminum Oil Drain Plug For Yamaha TW200 Trailway 1986-2000 TW200 2001-2021 | eBay

It's a great plug. I tighten it maybe 10 ft. lbs and holds just fine. I put a little aluminum anti-seize on the threads too. Just for good measure.
 
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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Thanks, I went and picked up a 6 point 19mm socket and a breaker bar, came off without to much fuss. Odd the drain hole is on the side had to take shift lever off. Also it's a pain in the butt for an old guy to check the oil level, have to get down on my bad knees, level the bike and check the oil level bent over almost to the ground. I'll never complain about my Chevy vans 5 foot dip stick again.
 

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If the plug is ruined and will be replaced anyways, try a large gooseneck pliers or vise grips. Note the following: Pliers are used to create blood-blisters. Vise Grips are generally used after pliers to completely round off bolt heads.
;)
 

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Thanks, I went and picked up a 6 point 19mm socket and a breaker bar, came off without to much fuss. Odd the drain hole is on the side had to take shift lever off. Also it's a pain in the butt for an old guy to check the oil level, have to get down on my bad knees, level the bike and check the oil level bent over almost to the ground. I'll never complain about my Chevy vans 5 foot dip stick again.
You don't need to take the shift lever off. Put you an extension on your socket and you can bump the shifter up just a tad to where the socket and extension are straight and loosen it up. The part about getting on your knees, I can't help you there except for recommending checking out the motorcycle lifts or tables used on the forum. I have a Honda with a dipstick, I prefer the sight window myself. At least you got it off.
 

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I’m liking the sight glass window for quick oil checks. Does anyone else despise reinstalling the drain plug strainer bits… tips needed;)
On my vtx 1300 I cut a grove in dip stick to indicate full while leaning on kick stand.
but my 6cyl 3.7 13 f150 dip stick is totally hateful… way too short to reach .
 

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Thanks, I went and picked up a 6 point 19mm socket and a breaker bar, came off without to much fuss. Odd the drain hole is on the side had to take shift lever off. Also it's a pain in the butt for an old guy to check the oil level, have to get down on my bad knees, level the bike and check the oil level bent over almost to the ground. I'll never complain about my Chevy vans 5 foot dip stick again.
217525

I like to cheat
 

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I like to cheat
I've been known to take a pic with my phone, or if the light is right, just use it as a mirror. Even with that, it's difficult to know when the bike is fully level when my head is somewhere between my knees. I can get the bike plumb L-R with my rear wheel lift, but that puts the bike nose down and it indicates more oil than with both wheels down. New oil is also light and clear enough to misinterpret unless you see the surface move past the sight glass.

While I check the level very carefully the first few rides after changing oil, I usually just make sure I see oil in the glass without laying it way over on the right side.

If I want difficult, I try to gauge the level on our late model Honda cars. I'm pretty sure the little plastic piece at the end of the dipstick was designed to take the smallest trace of oil from the tube and wick it all over the end regardless of the pan level. Not fun when these small 1.5L turbo engines need an especially watchful eye since they have been known to blow gasoline past the rings or valve guides into the oil.
 

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Seems a common problem. I also replaced my rounded off drain bolt. A six sided 19 socket works best for sure. Also, as others mentioned DO NOT torque that bolt to Yamaha’s spec or you will continue to need a breaker bar. Hand tight plus a little bit more is enough. I think Ski pro mentioned 10 ft/lb which seems right.
 
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