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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Before anyone starts it..yes i have read the ATV Tire threads..but with some of pictures having missing links, i thought id try and start something again.




From what I've read..people tend to go with the duro because its an inch narrower than a bighorn. If i do go with a bighorn, what problems will i run into?



Besides re-gearing to a 55 sprocket and getting the dam tire on the rim, is there anything else i need to know? Any usefull tips from people who have done this?



I'm not looking forward to getting a flat tire out on the trail either. Are there any options as far as not using a tube, or something of that nature to seal up the spokes? Tube-Liss doesn't come in a 14 inch rim.
What about ride-on?



Looks like the duro is around 80 bucks from RMATV. Ill check with discount tire and see what they can do for me. I might even have them try and mount it.
 

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There are two Bighorns. The Bighorn2 in 26x9X14 slaps right on and clears everything.



And no, you won't be changing one on the trail. I've had mine on and off a few times, but it calls for a hi-lift jack under a heavy pickup to bust the bead.



I've never managed to flatten one, even at nearly zero psi in the rocks, but it's definitely a real concern.



On the plus side, you'll never spin one on the rim
 

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I have the Bighorn and was worried about flats on the trail too. Considering the tightness of the bead on the rim and the bulkiness of the tire, I wonder how the tire would run flat. You wont get it off the rim on the trail, that's for sure. I run the tire very low 6-8psi on offroad. You will need to modifify the chain guard and the small wire tab on the swingarm (I just press mine flat and trimmed the plastic chain guard). The clearance is tight, but nothing rubs and I have tested it well offroad. If I was doing it again, I would look hard at the Duro as its a bit smaller - don't know how difficult it is to deal with on the rim. Good Luck.
 

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I run the Druo and love it...I can go through pretty deep mud and not spin out and i feel more secure with some lugs bitting in. But like the other guys have indicated you will not change it on the trail or even at a trail head. i had to put 80+ lbs in it to get it to seat on the bead... i would not attempt that on the road.. I just picked up a spare rim and put my original tire back on.. I'll be taking it with me to use as a spare. easier and faster just to change the whole rim and tire then to mess with tubes and tires. I also plan on riding it some on the road this summer with gas prices going up... I'll put the original back on for that...



Kevin
 

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The devil is in the details here. I think it would be helpful if we all provided info on EXACTLY which tire and tire size we're referring to when handing out advice. A simple thing like mistakenly buying a 9.00 version of a tire instead of an 8.50 could lead to expensive mistakes, no joy, axe murders and stuff.



All of these tires have different treadfaces and different profiles and some are available in as many as six different 14" sizes. The Maxxis Bighorn and the Bighorn2 are two different tires with two different cross sections, for example. The original Bighorn is wider for the same size designation and hits stuff that the Bighorn2 doesn't. A Maxxis CEROS is an entirely different critter altogether and will have its own rules when fitting it on a TW. Almost all of them cost in excess of $100.



So if you have something that works save the ATV tire virgins some heartache and be specific.
 

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So a regular ( not 2.0) bighorn will fit?


I can only speak for the 2.0 in 26x9x14. It fits with no chain rub or swingarm interference. I did break off the chainguard tab and trim the guard, but it wasn't absolutely neccessary, just too close for my liking. It seats at 60-70 psi, but that may just have been a happy accident.



Mounted on a TW rim it's about 8 1/4" in cross section, but it's tall at 27" inflated to 18 psi.



This just happens to be my choice in tire. I have nothing to compare it to, but it fits, which has to be the first concern. I'm guessing I have 1,500-2,000 miles on it, including at least one 500 mile pavement ride. At this point it's squared off and probably about toast for road use, but would probably work for another thousand miles offroad. I run it anywhere from 18 psi down to 3-5 psi.



Is it the "best" tire? I dunno. Got no dog in that fight. If I hear from a reliable source that some other tire works better, fits as well and goes on without excessive seating pressure I'll try it. But I'm not touching anything that's seen 100+ psi or needs a body grinder taken to its tread or bead to get it to fit. Personal preference. Other people ain't messed up about that stuff and theirs work fine, too.



Hold off. The Cali gang alone has examples of dangnear all of these tires mounted on theirs. They and others can chime in on what was involved with installing theirs so you can make an informed choice.
 

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why dont ou just put a paddle tire on it. It will perform just as well for the terrian you ride////// like chit



Traction is aall about contact patch, and it is directly proportional, more contact = more traction

bighorns & duros are good for slush, mud, sand, silt, because they are self cleaning and they can push you thru the soft stuff because they have bite and if you ride that stuff great.



you do roads, hardpack, trails, rocks...
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
why dont ou just put a paddle tire on it. It will perform just as well for the terrian you ride////// like chit



Traction is aall about contact patch, and it is directly proportional, more contact = more traction

bighorns & duros are good for slush, mud, sand, silt, because they are self cleaning and they can push you thru the soft stuff because they have bite and if you ride that stuff great.



you do roads, hardpack, trails, rocks...
Your pretty cranky for a bed ridden stuborn old man..go get some rest so you can ride your little scooter in the dirt next weekend.
 
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