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Discussion Starter #1
What is in black was a personal conversation between me and Operose. Red is what I did tonight while I had someone to hold flashlight.





I can tell you this much. My battery is dead. I haven't charged it though.

I've added led turnsignals and brake lights. Turn signal switch broke a few days ago.
<=- Clipped Wires this evening since they aren't working. Ends are covered.

I've also added a moose racing head light with separate high and low beams.

The problem has happened on and off since I bought the bike. I know I have a loose connection somewhere in the harness as I was able to jiggle the wires sometimes when it wouldn't start with the button. (wires behind headlight) <=-- Dead battery = No CLICKY when button pushed. While idling, I can push button and starter spins... (I know, bad and shouldn't do it)



I haven't rode enough in darkness to have noticed it until recently. But after the starter button/dead battery issue I would notice it. I've refilled the battery and plan on charging it soon to see if this fixes it. I have been working in the backyard. Recently noticed after I had the rear tire replaced when I parked it that the headlight was dim.



I can kickstart no problems. 2 or 3 kicks. Idle it's bright any throttle dims. Choke out it dims. Choke in after warm it flickers from what is what I think it should be brightness wise to dim.

Going to cut and take off turn signals to isolate those as the problem. There is a blue wire under seat that was spliced by previous owner. I'm going to cut out the butt connector and solder that. Fixed ..


Then I'm going to trace the big red wire in vicinity of headlight as the previous owner said it was cause of starter not working at times. Big red 3 wire connector... Cleaned the prongs of what was visible - Wiggled while idling and no difference.

Also going to hopefully find out test locations for the rectifier or whatever(don't know names of those parts or what output should be). No clue here.... Can kinda read schematics, but pictures of what I should be doing would be nice.






Anyone have any ideas ?? I'm at my wits end on this and don't know what else I can do besides ignore it as I don't ride it as often as Shadow nor do I ride much at night.





 

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Discussion Starter #2
What is in black was a personal conversation between me and Operose. Red is what I did tonight while I had someone to hold flashlight.



I can tell you this much. My battery is dead. I haven't charged it though.

I've added led turnsignals and brake lights. Turn signal switch broke a few days ago. <=- Clipped Wires this evening since they aren't working. Ends are covered.

I've also added a moose racing head light with separate high and low beams.

The problem has happened on and off since I bought the bike. I know I have a loose connection somewhere in the harness as I was able to jiggle the wires sometimes when it wouldn't start with the button. (wires behind headlight) <=-- Dead battery = No CLICKY when button pushed. While idling, I can push button and starter spins... (I know, bad and shouldn't do it)



I haven't rode enough in darkness to have noticed it until recently. But after the starter button/dead battery issue I would notice it. I've refilled the battery and plan on charging it soon to see if this fixes it. I have been working in the backyard. Recently noticed after I had the rear tire replaced when I parked it that the headlight was dim.



I can kickstart no problems. 2 or 3 kicks. Idle it's bright any throttle dims. Choke out it dims. Choke in after warm it flickers from what is what I think it should be brightness wise to dim.

Going to cut and take off turn signals to isolate those as the problem. There is a blue wire under seat that was spliced by previous owner. I'm going to cut out the butt connector and solder that. Fixed ..

Then I'm going to trace the big red wire in vicinity of headlight as the previous owner said it was cause of starter not working at times. Big red 3 wire connector... Cleaned the prongs of what was visible - Wiggled while idling and no difference.

Also going to hopefully find out test locations for the rectifier or whatever(don't know names of those parts or what output should be). No clue here.... Can kinda read schematics, but pictures of what I should be doing would be nice.



Anyone have any ideas ?? I'm at my wits end on this and don't know what else I can do besides ignore it as I don't ride it as often as Shadow nor do I ride much at night.




Update..... I have This Headlight and just realized it is using a 55w Bulb low and High. Only one lights when selected. Could this be the issue ?? ?!!!! ????
 

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Your battery is has a shorted cell and the headlight bulb wattage is too high.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Well, tomorrow when the sun comes up, I will pull the bulbs and see if I can find lower wattage ones. Working on either replacing/recharging the battery. Going to try to charge first (obviously), I've topped the water off this evening (had my little helper out there for a few minutes holding flashlight again. If not, I don't mind kicking since it's 2 most of the time to get it started.



Thanks Lizrd
 

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You mentioned the rectifier and I suppose you are like me, got to fix it and need a forum. Don't want to replace stuff until you are reasonably sure its toast. Look at the "How to diagnose a rectifier" that I was guided thru on the next page back, and then, in the end (2nd page) the very simple

test that I thought I was asking, day one. The Yamaha Shop Manual says "Replace" too easy for me, you are in better hands here.

Greybeard
 

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Discussion Starter #6
You mentioned the rectifier and I suppose you are like me, got to fix it and need a forum. Don't want to replace stuff until you are reasonably sure its toast. Look at the "How to diagnose a rectifier" that I was guided thru on the next page back, and then, in the end (2nd page) the very simple

test that I thought I was asking, day one. The Yamaha Shop Manual says "Replace" too easy for me, you are in better hands here.

Greybeard




All of that post was GREEK to me... Other than, replaced rectifier and it works now.
 

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Remember that the '88-'01 system not only has less output than the later system, it produces most of it in the upper rpm range. If you run loads at the ragged edge of output, odds are that the only time your battery gets topped off is during top speed runs, if at all. This is very hard on regulators and batteries.



The later system is 3 phase and not only has more total output, it also has more output across the rpm range. It's far less subject to the above, but if you push the limits the same stuff will occur.



If you haven't fried your regulator yet, lose the 55, get the battery checked out and get all the loads minimized with LED's and such BEFORE increasing the wattage.



Greybeard has a thread on checking the regulator.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Going to pull headlights shortly and see if i can find new lower wattage ones..



Battery is toast. put on my smart charger and shows as bad cell(s).. Any ideas on a new, low cost one maybe from walmart of autozone type place.
 

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You'll have a heckuva time finding a 35 at an auto parts store.



Is the existing halogen a 3 blade, hi-lo bulb with one of the terminals unused, or a dedicated hi-only element with 2 blades?
 

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OK. Yer skrewt.




I got nuttin'. Maybe you should try the incandescant builb instead.
 

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Mike,

I'll be glad to try again, for everybody in that thread that helped out. Try this:

1)Find the Rectifier/Regulator. It is close to the negative post on the battery, since the fat black wire goes directly to it and through it and into the frame. From it come the 3 whites and 1 red, all in one connector.

2)Take off this connector. Drop the wire.

3) On the rectifier end, with key off, connect your tester on the lowest Ohms setting, to the outside of the case, or the big black wire.

4) To each of the four contacts inside the rectifier, you must not have any reading. It means electricity from your stator is running into the

negative side of your battery. Trash it.

5) Lightly coat a dab of dielectic grease to your connectors before reinstalling. I like it better than soldering in most of my connections.



I did not find a TW size battery at Wal-Mart. I think it was Battery World, or Battery-Mart; some such closer to denser populations then I like.

They replaced it even though I couldn't produce a receipt when a cell went bad. I think it was upper 30's. Keep your receipt in case its a habit!

-GB
 

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Discussion Starter #14
My solution to 35Watt dilemna....




Results = Same dimming at application of throttle. It's a 35W general utility light I had put on my mower..
 

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Dirty stator? It's a '91 so it could be rusty or dirty. When you grab the throttle the spark requires more energy and the stator can't generate enough for everything and you get dim lights. ***the stator is part of an assembly that generates electricity (re: alternator, to keep it simple).
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Did as suggested regarding rectifier..



http://i750.photobuc...eG/2f96839f.jpg



Tried both the negative battery terminal and the 4 plugs and the connection point at the rectifier and the 4 plugs at 200ohms (lowest setting). I also check for continuity from the 4 plugs to Negative terminal.



reading of 0 all tests



Oh, battery reading 2.89v.



Saw this on Walmart.com Battery
 

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Oh, before you go digging into the stator, just get a new battery. When I had a low battery and hit the blinker, the headlight would pulse the same as the blinker...charging system couldn't keep up with all the demand at that low of rpm (waiting for the green light).
 

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Glad to hear your wrecktifier isn't recked. And you did check the stator, I assume, for the Three Whites Test?

Like the headlight mod. Will it keep things dry?
 
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