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Discussion Starter #1
Last week I replaced the battery on the TW, all great afterwards. Then a few days later, when push the starter button, there would be nothing, a clock then no lights or anything.

I took of the start solenoid and tested and thought it was bad, so I replaced it. After replacing and hooking up the battery, the starter ran whenever the battery was connected. Would not start until the key turned on, but the starter would run.

Put the old solenoid back in and all is working fine. Something must be amiss. Was going to clean the main ground.

Any other input?
 

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You probably already made sure it wasn’t any of the satety switches (neutral, kickstand, kill)? Cheers
 

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Everyone needs to learn to use a Volt meter!

Lots of Youtube videos on how to use one.

Amazes me that folks start removing parts etc without checking voltages...

Jim
 

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The odd thing for me is the starter running continuously after installing a new solenoid? I would say the new part was either defective or somehow connected wrong causing a short and energizing the solenoid. As for the first problem possibly a loose connection at the battery which was fixed when you disconnected it to do the solenoid swap.
 

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Last week I replaced the battery on the TW, all great afterwards. Then a few days later, when push the starter button, there would be nothing, a clock then no lights or anything.
This is an indication of low voltage or high resistance connection.
A new battery does not necessarily mean it is good or fully charged.
 

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I took of the start solenoid and tested and thought it was bad, so I replaced it. After replacing and hooking up the battery, the starter ran whenever the battery was connected. Would not start until the key turned on, but the starter would run.
To test the solenoid, the coil should activate when 12 vdc applied.
When contacts closed, there should be almost no resistance across the high amp contacts.

There are two primary issues with non-Bendix (TW has overrunning clutch engagement) type solenoids:

1. Coil does not operate, due to bad coil (which is rare) or no voltage/inadequate voltage from starter push button and/or starter relay

2. High amp contacts are burnt, causing high resistance/voltage drop to starter.
 

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Put the old solenoid back in and all is working fine. Something must be amiss. Was going to clean the main ground.
Perhaps starter button hung up, after new solenoid installed?

Would need to see how it was wired to comment further

Very good idea to check BOTH ends of BOTH battery cables.

Was battery connection to solenoid corroded when solenoid first removed?

Now that it seems to be OK, good for you to measure voltage:

A. Key off, should be 12.6 for lead-acid or 12.8 for AGM

B. Key on, probably drop to 12.5 (within a few seconds), mainly due to headlight load

C. While operating starter, should be not less than 10.5

For more details, see post one of this thread": Voltage readings - why we need them - The Sportster and Buell Motorcycle Forum - The XLFORUM®
 
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Perhaps starter button hung up, after new solenoid installed?
This is the most likely source for the problem - if the starter engages with the battery , you have a short .....
 

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What kind of battery did you put in? If it was an AGM and wasn't fully charged first, this is what happens to it, it dies very quickly with only one or two starts of the bike. There may have been nothing wrong with your solenoid other than low battery voltage.
And are you sure you wired up the new solenoid correctly? Maybe you corrected it when you put the original one back in.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Lithium battery tender battery. I took it all apart, cleaned all the terminal ends and used the older solenoid and all works as it should. Strange but working. Maybe a bad ground? Faulty new solenoid?
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Still having the same issue. Have been kick starting, but wanting to resolve what is wrong.

Battery test at 13 V (also connected a jump box and ensure there was no voltage issues)

Tested the selinoid by removing the big wires, then pressing the start switch, the selinoid clicks as it should. Test the resistance across the selinoid when is click and good resistance.

What I find interesting, is after I have pressed the starter button, then the bike has no lights. After two or three kick starts, the lights come back on?

If I disconnect the relay, nothing happens, but I do not lose the lights?

Should I replace the relay?

Other ideas
Should I think about replacing the relay?
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Pulled the starter off. Pushed the start button and all fine. Went to connect the starter to the jump box and big spark. The wire connections on the starter have conductivity.....new starter?
 

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so does the starter still run after the bike has fired up?

if so its either the start button, relay or starter, are sticking.

what year is the bike? disc or drum brake model?
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Drum brakes - 1992

Starter gear does not spin when off the bike. It seems i should be able to freely spin the gear end of the starter, since it doesn't spin, I assume it is overloading the relay
 

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Sorry i'm a bit confused, in the beginning of your post you said that the starter would continue going after the bike was running....which would suggest its either the starter, solenoid or start button are sticking, but in the last reply you said the end of the starter doesn't spin which would suggest its jammed inside some how?
not sure how mechanically minded you are but here are a few things to try anyway..

if you have the starter motor off the bike then you can do a crude test on a battery. Touch the + cable terminal on to the + on the battery and then the body to -, scratch it around a bit to get a connection, it might spark but it should spin.
you can also bypass the start button - solenoid by crossing the 2 big cable attachments with a screwdriver, again it may spark a bit but if the starter spins then its ok (with starter motor fitted)

You say the spline does spin freely so would suggest something inside is broken. either the brushes have worn out and become wedged or as i've had, part of the magnet has broken off, if its the latter then its a new starter, brushes can be replaced, but mark the 3 parts of the starter case before you open it so it goes back together in the same way. if its part of the magnet then you unless you can source that part you need a new starter motor.

sometimes a starter or solenoid can stick, rocking the bike back and forth in gear can free this the same as tapping the solenoid with a hammer etc can free that.
 
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