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Hard to tell. When's the last time you changed the oil, adjusted the valves, carb, etc?
 

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did you recently change the oil filter? if so loosen the bleeder screw behind the cylinder and check for oil pressure up top

the skid plate reflects a lot of engine noise as well in case thats a new addition
 

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valve adjust would be the first thing....u know the last time i adjusted vavles i could seen the striker part of the stem was started to mushroom , think the next time i buy new adjusters... les than 10,000 miles
 

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"It was the rocker arm!" ... "quieted up when it was brought back to spec."
May we assume
hereby is referring to valve lash, or clearance, on either the intake or exhaust valves that was reset to factory specifications thus "curing" the unwanted engine noises reported in post #1?
 

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I’m really interested in hearing more about this. If it is a rocker arm, how much do you need to disassemble to check for damage? Or is this normally no big deal when corrected quickly? I’ve obviously never taken an engine apart. Still need to check my valves. Cheers
 
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Not sure what the root cause, but the everything quieted up when it was brought back to spec.

Best I can tell is it got louder after I hit a flooded out section of trail one day... But I am not sure. Runs good still.
This makes no sense to me....

The adjusting nut was tight but the valve was extremely LOOSE?

That water is not going to adjust that valve....

More to this story!

Jim
 

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I’m really interested in hearing more about this. If it is a rocker arm, how much do you need to disassemble to check for damage? Or is this normally no big deal when corrected quickly? I’ve obviously never taken an engine apart. Still need to check my valves. Cheers
Here's a couple quick pic's for you to see when things aren't right. I will post my album link at the bottom so you can see all the stuff, good and bad.

Tip of valve concave and pitted. You will never get your valves adjusted properly with the valve like this.


The end of the adjuster screw can look like this picture. You will hear bad things when this happens similar to what the OP posted in the video. The noise in the video can sound the same with a variety of causes, even when the valves are way out of adjustment. Hopefully, you would catch this early on so the damage like this doesn't happen.


Broken valve guide


https://photos.google.com/album/AF1QipPwlLuOTvd5Z9AORfR9qF_5GJxf_611txEv60-n
 

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One of the tips of my valve lash adjusting screws started chipping and disintegrating creating a similar too loose valve condition. So it is not just the valve stem that can mushroom, become concave or pitted and be the source of mysterious symptoms. I urge everyone to pay attention to all the elements in the valve train before drawing conclusions based on any assumptions if you find your valve lash inexplicably loose or valves noisy.
 

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One of the tips of my valve lash adjusting screws started chipping and disintegrating creating a similar too loose valve condition. So it is not just the valve stem that can mushroom, become concave or pitted and be the source of mysterious symptoms. I urge everyone to pay attention to all the elements in the valve train before drawing conclusions based on any assumptions if you find your valve lash inexplicably loose or valves noisy.

Exactly why I mentioned the adjuster screw. I just don't have a picture of a bad one since mine survived the carnage I inflicted in the pictures you do see. :D
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Ah, sorry I missed the continuing discussion gentleman!

Well, I can't say water caused it - just my closest guess is it started sounding a little different after I had to ride through a minor flash flood.

I just finished rebuilding the carb, and the bike is back running now. I am thinking of checking the clearance on the other side...

Seems like I may need to take things apart further to inspect the valve even though it quieted up?

I am a bit concerned that I can't diagnose the why of how it became loose, riding season is coming up and I don't want to get stranded far from home but we have already stretched my abilities as a mechanic.

I'll take another video so you all can hear how it is sounding post adjustment.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Well, resurrecting my zombie thread, but my busy life had kept me from digging into this problem - and I was frustrated at the start of the summer when the bike wouldn't hold idle again.

I had thought that my carb had gummed back up, but it turns out that my December valve adjustment was no longer in spec after we got to summer temperatures. Imagine that.

Enough digging on this excellent site eventually led me back to the exhaust valve as a potential issue. I retweaked that and things were good on idle.

Then I set the intake valve, learned about top dead center compression, re-reset the intake valve in the right position and now the bike is starting easy, idling well, and is SO SO SO much quieter.

I am not really sure about the initial cause as I hadn't ridden this bike very regularly. Maybe things were set out of season by the previous owner cause the bike was seeing winter and summer use.

I have around 50 miles around town on it and it's holding the adjustment steady at this point, so I don't think the valves got worn out - I just had to go through a learning curve to get the bike happy.

Little Pig is all packed up with some camping gear for this labor day weekend riding forest service roads in the Manistee National Forest. Looking forward to it.
 
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