About a month ago, I bought this 1989 TW 200 with only 5000 miles on the clock. At 22 years old, she still looks new. Paint and plastic in perfect condition as well as the original tires. Obviously she has been garaged her entire life. I have only put 500 miles on her since I brought her home, but she has quit on me on several occasions. I have to let the engine come to a complete stop before she will restart, but she always does leaving me thinking that I bumped the kill switch, kickstand, or whatever. So far, that doesn't look to be the case. My first instincts are that it is probably a coil opening or maybe the cdi. If it wasn't so random, it would be easy to find. It also seems to choose really inconvient times like when I am in the middle of an intersection waiting to make a left turn, or traveling down the fast lane of loop 303. If any of you have had a bike that gave you these symptoms and you were able to solve it, I would really appreciate knowing what you found. TIA, Lanny
Engine randomly dies
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Check as follows:
check gas cap vent for vapor type lock
check battery connections (I've had a bolt bail on me and had same type of symptoms)
run 2 oz of seafoam through full tank of gas (gas may not be getting through jets)
replace spark plug, check wires, coil etc.
check cdi unit (older bikes had weak electrics
Let us know what you find.
good luck
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You'll want to narrow it down to gas or spark first.
I use an inductive timing light connected to a battery tender plug to check for mystery intermittent issues. Connect it, then ride it with the light activated by a rubber band on the trigger. When the bike fails watch the light to see if it fires as the bike rolls to a stop in gear. No light=spark issue, light=fuel issue. Quickest way I've found to narrow it down.
Barring that you'll have to do it the hard way. Check flow from the petcock. Shine a light in the tank and see if the standoff filters are varnished or clogged. With the fuel cap in place, drain the tank and see if it "glugs" as it empties, indicating a clogged fuel cap vent. You can also loosen the cap if the bike quits on a straightaway and see if it restarts as it's rolling in gear. Check your float height and make sure your needle isn't sticking.
Then it's on to inspecting the electricals, starting with all the connectors. Disconnect, clean and reconnect every flippin one of them with dielectric grease, then run resistence checks on all the components per the manual. Check for broken wires where they enter the left side cover before condemning any of the CDI parts based on resistence or opens.
This stuff is no fun, but sometimes you find the problem early in the process. Good luck.
I use an inductive timing light connected to a battery tender plug to check for mystery intermittent issues. Connect it, then ride it with the light activated by a rubber band on the trigger. When the bike fails watch the light to see if it fires as the bike rolls to a stop in gear. No light=spark issue, light=fuel issue. Quickest way I've found to narrow it down.
Barring that you'll have to do it the hard way. Check flow from the petcock. Shine a light in the tank and see if the standoff filters are varnished or clogged. With the fuel cap in place, drain the tank and see if it "glugs" as it empties, indicating a clogged fuel cap vent. You can also loosen the cap if the bike quits on a straightaway and see if it restarts as it's rolling in gear. Check your float height and make sure your needle isn't sticking.
Then it's on to inspecting the electricals, starting with all the connectors. Disconnect, clean and reconnect every flippin one of them with dielectric grease, then run resistence checks on all the components per the manual. Check for broken wires where they enter the left side cover before condemning any of the CDI parts based on resistence or opens.
This stuff is no fun, but sometimes you find the problem early in the process. Good luck.
The clutch safety switch circuit could be the culprit here also.
I know that doesn't sound right but it has to do with the relay in that circuit. actually that relay handles all the safety switches i believe.
In one position it gets 0-volts and allows the starter to be activated as well as the ignition circuit. In the opposite position it gets lets say 12 volts and allows the ignition circuit only or vise versa i'm not sure exactly. but if it is getting oh say 6 volts then the thing allows neither. This problem shows up mostly when going over bumpy roads and the clutch handle is vibrating against that switch but could happen if you had a weak connection some where in that circuit or if the relay is bad. I think there is a previous post about that relay.
If the problem persists next time the engine dies activate the clutch while you are coasting if the engine springs back to life that might be an indication that the switch is the culprit.
Im not sure you can test the relay except by replacing it so check the connections to it and all the safety switches first. Then look for that post about that relay.
I know that doesn't sound right but it has to do with the relay in that circuit. actually that relay handles all the safety switches i believe.
In one position it gets 0-volts and allows the starter to be activated as well as the ignition circuit. In the opposite position it gets lets say 12 volts and allows the ignition circuit only or vise versa i'm not sure exactly. but if it is getting oh say 6 volts then the thing allows neither. This problem shows up mostly when going over bumpy roads and the clutch handle is vibrating against that switch but could happen if you had a weak connection some where in that circuit or if the relay is bad. I think there is a previous post about that relay.
If the problem persists next time the engine dies activate the clutch while you are coasting if the engine springs back to life that might be an indication that the switch is the culprit.
Im not sure you can test the relay except by replacing it so check the connections to it and all the safety switches first. Then look for that post about that relay.
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Members above have given you lots of good advice.
Next time the engine dies-make sure you can pull the spark plug and check to see if you have spark. If you do have spark most likely you have some sort of a fuel problem. My first suspicions would lean toward a fuel/air issue(s).
Good Luck
Mike
Next time the engine dies-make sure you can pull the spark plug and check to see if you have spark. If you do have spark most likely you have some sort of a fuel problem. My first suspicions would lean toward a fuel/air issue(s).
Good Luck
Mike
Whatever it turns out to be, please let us know. There are several posts in this forum relating to the engine not starting, stopping, etc that are odd.
Me thinks the engineers have designed the ignition circuit in a way that, at least I, am not accustomed to. My suspicion is that it has to do with all those safety switches and what is the neccessary circuitry to make them function.
I would like to enlighten myself about this in case i,m in the back country when something odd happens.
Me thinks the engineers have designed the ignition circuit in a way that, at least I, am not accustomed to. My suspicion is that it has to do with all those safety switches and what is the neccessary circuitry to make them function.
I would like to enlighten myself about this in case i,m in the back country when something odd happens.
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I don't think you have a fuel problem since the problem occurs under a plethora of conditions. Seafoam in the fuel certain;y won't hurt.
1) Clean (with Seafoam Deep Creep) and tighten all electrical connections.
2) Disconnect (normal open) or bypass (normal closed) one switch at a time until the problem disappears. Repair or replace that switch.
1) Clean (with Seafoam Deep Creep) and tighten all electrical connections.
2) Disconnect (normal open) or bypass (normal closed) one switch at a time until the problem disappears. Repair or replace that switch.
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Very true. A systematic plan of action that eliminates possibilities one at a time is the way to go.
Thanks for all of the tips. I will definitely let you know when I find the actual cause of the issue. I took a little ride today about three hours worth in some very rough terrain. It did stop once, and then as usual, it restarted just fine. I never rule anything out when I am looking for the cause of a problem, but I really believe that this is an electrical problem. I was testing my new mounting method for my top box today, so I wasn't set up to really record anything regarding the engine randomly dieing issue.
I had this type of problem, I ended up replacing a new battery after pushing it about seven miles back home. Do a load test on the battery always a good place to start. By the way this is pure genius.
"I use an inductive timing light connected to a battery tender plug to check for mystery intermittent issues. Connect it, then ride it with the light activated by a rubber band on the trigger. When the bike fails watch the light to see if it fires as the bike rolls to a stop in gear. No light=spark issue, light=fuel issue. Quickest way I've found to narrow it down."
Never thought of this before, I actually hooked up my Fluke with a similar method but it would have been alot cheaper to brake a timing light then my meter.
"I use an inductive timing light connected to a battery tender plug to check for mystery intermittent issues. Connect it, then ride it with the light activated by a rubber band on the trigger. When the bike fails watch the light to see if it fires as the bike rolls to a stop in gear. No light=spark issue, light=fuel issue. Quickest way I've found to narrow it down."
Never thought of this before, I actually hooked up my Fluke with a similar method but it would have been alot cheaper to brake a timing light then my meter.
Your engine died and you solved the problem by replacing your battery? This is the mystery here because the engine should and does run with out a battery.....whats going on?
Also if you study the manual and follow the trouble shooting guide you will never arrive at a diagnosis of the clutch safety switch causing the engine to die it is not even mentioned as being in the ignition circuit. It is only mentioned as part of the engine start circuit. Yet I and others here can tell you for certain that it will cause your engine to die if the handle vibrates against it causing a low voltage signal through that circuit.
I believe There is something odd going on here pertaining to low voltage in the battery that causes the engine to die. but why? since it should run with out the battery.
I'm an ex electronics technician and every now and then an electronics mystery occurs that I just have to find the answer to. If only it weren't to cold to ride I wouldn't be doin this
Your engine died and you solved the problem by replacing your battery? This is the mystery here because the engine should and does run with out a battery.....whats going on?
Also if you study the manual and follow the trouble shooting guide you will never arrive at a diagnosis of the clutch safety switch causing the engine to die it is not even mentioned as being in the ignition circuit. It is only mentioned as part of the engine start circuit. Yet I and others here can tell you for certain that it will cause your engine to die if the handle vibrates against it causing a low voltage signal through that circuit.
I believe There is something odd going on here pertaining to low voltage in the battery that causes the engine to die. but why? since it should run with out the battery.
I'm an ex electronics technician and every now and then an electronics mystery occurs that I just have to find the answer to. If only it weren't to cold to ride I wouldn't be doin this![]()
Well I was getiing a good reading on the charging system thats why I pulled the battery, it was totally shot and from 05. My pop is an electrician and I have picked up a few tips from Macguyver over the years. Plus I have a friend that owns a shop that did the load test for me, he gives me all my parts for cost so I know he wasn't just trying to make a buck. Battery shot charging system good no problems since other then the weather we are having here in Il. Not a very good bike to take out in the snow. Also the charging system is not enough to keep the bike running on its own, also a good way to burn one out.
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The charging system and battery is not needed to run rhe motor.
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I have used a timing light to diagnose a problem with intermitant spark. Hook the light up and tape it up so you can see it and then run the bike until it dies. You will see no flash at the timing light if it is a spark problem. I have had coils heat up and fail after a few minutes of running. Usually they are cracked from heat and age.
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