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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Did not get out to the desert today but did take a spin to check temps. 10289405_10202711752067012_197323983_o.jpg running temp 185 10310077_10202711847989410_1323717381_o.jpg 226 no air flow 10309880_10202711751026986_1093799190_o.jpg and Bike just looking good! by the time I get and install the oil cooler it will be around 110 degrees.:icon_thumleft: click to enlarge photos. you can see how hot it gets with no air flow. photo 1 185 temp. 2 got up to 226 temp F.
 

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Discussion Starter #3 (Edited)

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Something bad wrong with that bike. Hmmm? Yes, that's it! It is way too clean.
 

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What weight oil are you using? While I have no desire to start that argument again, running in warm temps switching to 20w-40 (like Yamaha says too pg 8-1) makes the bike run a lot cooler. It makes a huge difference in 90+ weather.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
That's a pretty good pan, but do you ride fast and hard where the big rocks could do damage? So far the roughest stuff I've found was some hard core 4x4 trails up near Florence Junction where the army trains. Box Canyon, Woodpecker/Ajax loop, Martinez Canyon and the Coke Ovens. Great places to explore I have only just begun to ride in. My brother rode all through those areas years before I moved out here from the people's republic of California 5 years ago, so he's my guide. I'd like to get those folding mirrors.
It only takes one well placed sharp rock ! this plate is thicker then the one from moose on my DR. The folding mirrors are the cheaper ones on procycle and you have to get the adapter for the right side the stock ones I was looking at my shoulders.Paul
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Something bad wrong with that bike. Hmmm? Yes, that's it! It is way too clean.
still new if Jimbo would get me a shield I could make it dirty.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
What weight oil are you using? While I have no desire to start that argument again, running in warm temps switching to 20w-40 (like Yamaha says too pg 8-1) makes the bike run a lot cooler. It makes a huge difference in 90+ weather.
my bike is new I have not change the oil yet but have the filters and oil ready when I hit 60 miles! I will be running 20-50 for the AZ desert now my temp reading on the stick on's are case temperatures.
 

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Not trying to start any controversy , but, wouldn't running 10w-40 be better on startup than 20w-40 or 20w-50 ? and still have the latter protection .
 

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Discussion Starter #11 (Edited)
Not trying to start any controversy , but, wouldn't running 10w-40 be better on startup than 20w-40 or 20w-50 ? and still have the latter protection .
in a month my garage will be over 100 degrees I do not have to use the choke the oil will be thin. and my 20-50 is a Synthetic blend.Paul
 

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Discussion Starter #12 (Edited)

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Just had a TW with 12,xxx miles brought into the shop this weekend with a knock at idle. Stethoscope indicated piston slap. Farm bike, sees lots of low speed, hot, humid riding. Owner was really proud of his long history of nothing but Rotella. Pulled the head and one finger atop the piston could make a rattling sound. Cam races worn out in head. Obvious wear on followers and cam lobes.

Owner walked over and noticed Tdub's miles, asked how many times she's been rebuilt. Thought I was BSing when I told him she still had the stock piston, and only changed the rings at 51K because I was in there anyway due to a leaking base gasket. Rings and clutch are the only non-original internals. Mobil 1, peeps.

20W-anything works fine over 45*F, any colder and the starter has trouble turning the engine over. AnythingW-40 should not be used over 110*F as it is too thin. Yes, Tdub as done many miles with temps over 110*F.

Remember that dino oils gain their wide viscosity ranges from additives that break down quickly between trans gears. This includes desulfered dinos like Rotella. Ester-based synthetics do not rely on additives as their engineered base oils provide viscosity range so their high temp viscosities remain long after dino 20W50s have turned to 5W-20s. If you actually test your oils for breakdown and contamination you'll find ester-based synthetics typically last 3 times as long as cheap dinos and twice as long as desulfered dinos, which tosses a wrench in the cheapskate argument.
 
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I always figured the inside of the engine was mainly lubricated with oil mist and vapors. Once the oil was at operating temps and things were spinning at high rpm the entire inside of the crankcase was covered with oil and the air is full of oil droplets, or a very fine mist.
 

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As usually QWERTY put it better than me but in stop and go traffic in high 90s and up the inside of my legs would start to get cooked and loose all hair with Dino 10w-30 when I moved the bike back down here. Swapped to full synthetic 20w-50 and I can touch my legs to the case in the same situations without needing a ride to the ER and the hair grew back. Me and the TDub where a lot happier from then on and I think it's the best thing I ever did to the bike.
 

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When we were in Arkansas Tushhog and I rode at the same time and the same places. His was about 55 degrees hotter than mine. We are about the same size but have different tires,sprockets and oil. He has an ATV tire on rear and golden boy on front and is geared higher than me. I use Mobil 1 and he used dino oil.
 

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When I was driving tow trucks one of my customers was a retired chemical engineer for Esso/Exxon/Exxon Mobil who spent 30 years analyzing competitors' lubricants to figure out exactly what was in them. He knows more about oil formulations than any other living human being. He set me up with the correct Mobil product for everything I own, from the 0.60cid model airplane 2-stroke to the twin turbocharged 600hp 1800lbs/ft Cat diesel in the Kenworth, and explained exactly why each formulation was best for each engine.

All my motorcycles get Valvoline 4T Motorcycle Oil for break-in, Mobil 1 Racing 4T or V-Twin exclusively. I bought cases of each at a substantial discount through friends in the wholesale lubricant business. Why would anyone pass up Mobil 1 at under $4 per quart? Tdub and I would be just has happy with other premium brands such as Royal Purple and Amsoil if we couldn't get such a good deal on the Mobil 1.

No, Mobile 1 motorcycle oils will not hurt your clutch. Mobil 1's superior lubricity comes from superior base oil molecules, not from additives that build up on the clutch and cause it to slip. Superior base oils that reduce and eliminate the needs for harmful additives to improve lubricity and widen viscosity range are what you are paying for when you buy premium products such as Mobil 1, Royal Purple, and Amsoil genuine synthetic oils instead of desulfered dino oils sold as synthetic. The premium oils have the same or better lubricity and viscosity range as the cheaper oils and do it without additives because the properties are inherent in the "designer" base oil molecules. Base oil molecules are not broken down while an oil is used, the additives are, so if no additives to break down, the premium oils retain their positive properties 2-3 times longer than any oil with additives. It is these superior base oils that allow premium synthetics to run 40-50*F cooler than dino oils, including the various Rotellas still suitable for our bikes, one of the best dino oils available.
 

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I check my TWs today. A 91 and 03. Both have Mobil 1 oil. Both have stock tires. The 91 worn out tires the 02 new tires.The 91 has 15-50 sprockets and the 03 has 14-44 sprockets. I weigh about 50 pounds more than my nephew. The 91 has an over size piston(0.50MM o/s). It was there when I bought it and the odometer just turned to 13,000. I do not know if this is the right number. The 03 has 18,xxx miles. Do not know if tire pressure were the same but run 23psi in the 91. I was ridding the 91.
At the sight glass the 91 was 20 degrees cooler. At the bolt where you check oil flow and on the head by the exhaust the 91 was 50 degrees cooler.
I am going to change the oil in both and make sure the tires have the same pressure and check again.
 
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