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I joined this forum in April of 2015. I never found a TW200 that was affordable when I lived in Michigan. Anyhow, I have kept Craigslist searches going for a few years with the hopes of finding a T-dub for $1000 or less. Today one came up and I jumped on it (even though I had to drive about 2 1/2 hours each way).

I picked up a 2001 with 2004 miles on it. It needs a little TLC (but not a lot) as it sat outside in Wickenburg, AZ most of it's life. I picked it up from the original owners' son who inherited it. Fortunately, AZ is pretty dry but it does have some sun fading on some of it and just a little surface rust but no paint bubbling at all. He had the seat redone with new foam and a new cover. It has a clean title He did throw the old carb away a couple of years ago and put on one he bought online (I'm guessing China carb). Anyhow, it's all there and runs...all for $1000. No negotiating needed. I asked him to promise not to sell it out from under me and he kept his word. I'll try to post more detailed photos when I unload it out of my van tomorrow.

Here's a screenshot of the Craigslist email:
Screenshot_Outlook_20181115-223354[1].png

Jaydub
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Your lucky cause I offered the guy 1250 and he wouldn't sell it. :D Nice score.
That's funny. When I got ready to leave home I asked him to promise me he wouldn't sell it before I got there. He promised and he held his word but at one point when I was driving I called to ask him a question and he reiterated $1000 FIRM...with emphasis on FIRM.

Here's a couple of quick photos I took today. I didn't get a chance to do any work on it as I started changing the timing belt on our minivan tonight and should finish it up tomorrow. The T-dub needs the valves adjusted as well as the carb is a bit rich (partly due to altitude). The thing fires up the first time the piston comes up on TDC. That surprised me but it is rich.

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JayDub
 

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I can't get a good view of the carb but it does appear to be a stock carb as best as I can tell. A better close up of both sides is in order. Some guys have had good results with the after market "China" carbs while others Not So Much. New OEM carbs are still available for both the new and the older TWs.

Nice deal and the bike looks pretty decent considering being left out to bake.

GaryL
 

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i think the 2001 is one of the better looking years, but plastics and tank are easy swaps. 2004 miles is barely broken in, some handguards, a new front tire, and you've got years of great adventure ahead of you.
congrats.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
I can't get a good view of the carb but it does appear to be a stock carb as best as I can tell. A better close up of both sides is in order. Some guys have had good results with the after market "China" carbs while others Not So Much.
The PO did say he threw the old carb away and got a carb off ebay for under $40. It is a CV carb and looks like all the ones on ebay.

Now, 2 questions on the carbs (same question for my CRF230F carb too). How in the world do you get to the fuel screw on these carbs to tune for best idle when warmed up without 3rd degree burns? And, what kind of shorty screwdriver do you use? My CRF230F is worse for burning and access but this thing aint no piece of cake either. Was the stock carb any easier?

JayDub
 

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The PO did say he threw the old carb away and got a carb off ebay for under $40. It is a CV carb and looks like all the ones on ebay.

Now, 2 questions on the carbs (same question for my CRF230F carb too). How in the world do you get to the fuel screw on these carbs to tune for best idle when warmed up without 3rd degree burns? And, what kind of shorty screwdriver do you use? My CRF230F is worse for burning and access but this thing aint no piece of cake either. Was the stock carb any easier?

JayDub
https://www.tw200forum.com/forum/tw200-classifieds/8458-pilot-screw-extension-$30.html
 

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Discussion Starter #12
I like it. I can easily do that for both bikes. Thank you.

JayDub
 

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For the mix screw, I use a tiny little craftsman screwdriver I've had forever. It's maybe 2" long and is perfect for carbs, with a slim handle, not the chunky "stubby" style. I've also used eyeglass screwdrivers cut down to good effect although those the stems are awfully skinny.

I have one of the motion pro right angle screwdriver tools (bought it got my Valkyrie, with six difficult to access pilot screws), but it's actually pretty finicky to use. You can't "feel" the screw with it like you would a regular screwdriver, which makes it difficult when you can't visually see the screw. I just put a mechanix glove on and use the tiny screwdriver.

Turn the idle up slightly fast, engine fully warm, and find twiddle the screw until the idle is fastest. Then very slowly turn the screw in juuuust until the idle starts to drop, then stop.

If it pops or snaps on decel turn the screw 1/8 turn out, but I've found the above procedure to work pretty well, both with stock and aftermarket exhausts and jetting.
 
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