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Greetings - I have joined the ranks of TW owners. I live in Idaho, and just purchased a 2013 TW that has 315 miles on it - but I think they are tough miles - the engine case has a JB-Weld patch, but doesn't appear to leak any oil. I took it for a test drive, and it felt great (its my first time on a TW200). I hauled the bike home, and left it in my shop where it got down to roughly 5 below zero. I was happily surprised when I went out the next day and it started right up with a little choke. I drove it around for 5 or 10 minutes getting the feel for the bike - and parked it. Went back out the next day - bike turns over but won't start.. Put a charger on it, went out today - same thing - cannot get it to start. I know there are lots of threads about hard starting TW's so I guess I will start wading thru the threads to see if I can't find the sweet spot for starting the bike. I can already tell I am going to need a kick start kit on the bike - because I know it will see a lot of cold weather riding.

I did discover something strange - and hopefully somebody can help me out. On the left side of the handle bar (clutch side) - I found a black cable with two wires that have been tied together with electricians tape. It looks like these wires originally attached to the clutch lever - but have been taken off and shorted together. What is this cable?

I have gone full circle with motorbikes - I had some Honda CT110's that I loved, but sold those and went to a serious off road bike - CRX250, but realized I was soon going to kill myself on one of those bikes, I dropped back to a KLX250 which was alot more tame, sold that to a friend - and now that I am older - I have admired these little TW200's and thought I would really enjoy one. Oh - and to let you know how old I am, I used to race 3 wheelers. The last year I raced was in 1985, on a Honda 250R - that bike was a blast... But nowadays - I am happy just puttering around on cow trails.... if I can get the bike started...
 

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Welcome, from another recent additon to this forum.
The clutch lever wires are part of the start enable circuitry.
Blue/yellow from start relay to switch and then black / blue to CDI unit.
Also part of the start enable are the side stand switch (will kill motor if stand is down and dropped into gear)
If not in neutral, starter will nor crank unless clutch pulled in.

Since yours turns over/cranks, then the kill switch is on and the start system is enabled, but may not be getting spark.

Are you getting flow form the petcock?
Does the bowl drain screw (if you can get it open) put a puddle on the ground?
 

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Welcome from another 2013 owner on Vancouver Island! Good luck with your starting problem. Carb clean maybe? Your bike is low mileage and may have sat for extended periods with fuel in the system. Perhaps some gunk got dislodged on your first ride.
 

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Welcome to the forum! Once you get your kinks ironed out, I'm sure you'll love your new TW. Wish I could help but I'm not super handy like most of these guys are.
 
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Discussion Starter #5
Thanks for the reply SportserDoc - makes sense on the clutch wires - so it will be fine having those shorted together. I haven't done much to trouble shoot the starting issue - I did loosen the bowl drain screw and fuel did run out the hose - so it is surely getting fuel. I have not yet put fresh fuel in the bike since it came with a nearly full tank - that (allegedly) had fuel stabilizer added. I haven't pulled my plug to see if its wet either. The battery doesn't seem real strong. I will let it come back to a full charge and go try again.
 

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The battery doesn't seem real strong. I will let it come back to a full charge and go try again.
Voltage readings may be helpful.
I am more familiar with ignition module type systems and getting re-acquainted with CDI.
For ignition module type systems, too low a voltage will not develop spark.

Below was developed for a H-D forum, but should be applicable:

State of Charge (AGM battery)
12.8+ 100%
12.6 75%
12.3 50%
12.0 25%
11.8 Zero

Voltage Readings
1. KEY OFF battery voltage, at the battery: Normal is 12.8.
If just taken off a charger, voltage may be 13 point something. The battery needs to sit for a while (or turn on the key for ~3 seconds, then turn off) before a reading is useful.
In the case of a bad cell, the other cells overcharge and give an almost normal reading, until load is applied.
• If lower, then battery is discharged and needs charging or
• Battery has a bad cell

2. KEY ON battery voltage (headlight on): Normal is not under about 12.5 initially, but will decline the longer the headlight is on, without the motor running. Under no load, 12.5 volts indicates severe discharge, but under headlight load, it is just voltage drop.
• If lower, then battery is discharged and needs charging or
• Battery has a bad cell or
• Battery cable(s) have high resistance

3. KEY ON battery voltage while cranking: Normal is not under 10.5 volts
• If lower, then battery is discharged and needs charging or
• Battery has a bad cell or
• Battery cable(s) have high resistance or
• Starter is drawing too much current
• Solenoid contacts have high resistance

4. If the bike is running, battery voltage at about 2,500 RPMs should be 13.8 to 14.8
• If not, then check stator resistance and regulator ground
• If the stator is not shorted to ground and resistance is within spec, the regulator or regulator ground is suspect
 

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Among other things indicated above, the very first thing I would do is to remove the gas tank, thoroughly flush it with the petcock removed, clean the petcock filters with a toothbrush and gas, drain the carburetor via the drain screw and put in new gas, preferably Non Ethanol. Regardless of whether old gas is causing the problem, a 6 year old bike with only 315 miles on it means there is an extremely high probability that it has sat for months if not years, and a full fuel system clean-out is recommended.
 

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I'm not the mechanicinist guy on here, but I'll bet it's something very simple electrical since you started it the other day and rode it around a bit. I would start with spark.
 
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Greetings - I have joined the ranks of TW owners. I live in Idaho, and just purchased a 2013 TW that has 315 miles on it - but I think they are tough miles - the engine case has a JB-Weld patch, but doesn't appear to leak any oil. I took it for a test drive, and it felt great (its my first time on a TW200). I hauled the bike home, and left it in my shop where it got down to roughly 5 below zero. I was happily surprised when I went out the next day and it started right up with a little choke. I drove it around for 5 or 10 minutes getting the feel for the bike - and parked it. Went back out the next day - bike turns over but won't start.. Put a charger on it, went out today - same thing - cannot get it to start. I know there are lots of threads about hard starting TW's so I guess I will start wading thru the threads to see if I can't find the sweet spot for starting the bike. I can already tell I am going to need a kick start kit on the bike - because I know it will see a lot of cold weather riding.

I did discover something strange - and hopefully somebody can help me out. On the left side of the handle bar (clutch side) - I found a black cable with two wires that have been tied together with electricians tape. It looks like these wires originally attached to the clutch lever - but have been taken off and shorted together. What is this cable?

I have gone full circle with motorbikes - I had some Honda CT110's that I loved, but sold those and went to a serious off road bike - CRX250, but realized I was soon going to kill myself on one of those bikes, I dropped back to a KLX250 which was alot more tame, sold that to a friend - and now that I am older - I have admired these little TW200's and thought I would really enjoy one. Oh - and to let you know how old I am, I used to race 3 wheelers. The last year I raced was in 1985, on a Honda 250R - that bike was a blast... But nowadays - I am happy just puttering around on cow trails.... if I can get the bike started...
Welcome. Mars eh? :D

Thought you might be from the Boise side of the state when I read about the JB Weld patch on the engine case. Turns out I saw one very close in description on the Boise C-List. Right now a 2008, 2,700 miles and a JB Weld on the case is for sale for 1,800. Who'd-a-thunk.

Anyway, I admittildly have a weakish battery and have to jump start my 2015 when it's been this cold. It won't even start with my kicker. Jump starting and fire up the old woodstove is what I do like Old w/too many guns said.
 

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I don't live where it gets below freezing but it's been low 40s in the garage. And the TW e-start isn't that great, or powerful, in general so I can see that it will be harder to start when even colder.
I'd change the gas. You already checked the fuel flow. And it ran just before so I'd check spark next.
The bike has sat, a lot, so the previous advice to check and clean the carb is spot on.
I'd charge it up, or jump it, and use some starter fluid, if you find it has spark. And see if it will pop, backfire, or better run for a moment
I always become more motivated once I hear an engine try to run.
 

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I don't live where it gets below freezing but it's been low 40s in the garage. And the TW e-start isn't that great, or powerful, in general so I can see that it will be harder to start when even colder.
....
I've never had the slightest problem starting my 2010 in temps as low as 15 degrees.....full choke for 30 seconds, half choke and drive off for about 1-2 minutes.
However, I keep my battery fully charged on a twice monthly basis when I'm not riding it once a week or so....and, most important, I use ONLY non ethanol gas whenever I can get it.
 

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Greetings - I have joined the ranks of TW owners. I live in Idaho,

If you're in the western Treasure Valley and want non-ethanol:
Franklin Junction Store - Hwy 20/26 and Franklin (Nampa's "Franklin" - not Caldwell's or Boise's)
Sinclair - About a block east of the College of Idaho on right (just past Dutch Goose)
Chevron - but not chevron product (Premium only - left pumps on big rig side) W. Simplot Blvd. about a block to the left exiting Caldwell's main drag in a N/W direction.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Admiral - I am down near Pocatello - Saw the same bike on CL you are referring to. Saw a couple of 1998's with low mileage in Boise - both bikes for 4k. Each bike had a round 1000 miles, and looked perfect. I don't think they lasted very long before they were snatched up.
 

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Welcome from Spokane, WA!! :D
 
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old w/2 many guns.... I totally agree with you, and that was the big reason I dumped the KLX250...Damn thing just would not start in cold weather... Drove me crazy... And if you got it started it would need to idle for 10 minutes before you could actually go anywhere... My old CT110's would start anywhere, anytime. I really contemplated getting a bike that had fuel injection - but the fat tire pulled me in... I think Honda really had something with the CT110'S with the Hi-Lo tranny. But like boats and RV's - there is never the one that is 'perfect' for everything.
 

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Below was developed for a H-D forum, but should be applicable:

State of Charge (AGM battery)
12.8+ 100%
12.6 75%
12.3 50%
12.0 25%
11.8 Zero
Harley says that, but Harleys will start with 12.0 volts. [also tdub no has agm battery].

Yamaha says while driving your TW200 you should stay in fifth gear until you get down to 12 mph and then downshift all the way to first.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
It started right up...

So after being on the charger for a few hours (Battery Tender), I went out last night and pulled out the choke - and after 2 or 3 attempts it fired right up. It did smell pretty lean at first - so I am sure it was flooded. After it started it idled and then ran perfect. I took it thru the gears, froze my, butt off, and rolled it back into the shop.. It was around 25 degrees last night in the shop when it fired up, so it was warmer than it was this morning, but still pretty cold. So I am still in the 'bonding' stage with the bike, trying to engage in a relationship where I have confidence that it will get me out and get me back...
I appreciate everyones input, I am going to get a new battery just for peace of mind - I know that these little batteries just don't last long - especially in cold weather. I run ethanol free gas in all my toys -and I need to drain this fuel out and get some real gas in there. I ordered my Cycleworks rear rack - that should be here by the end of the week. We have another winter warning, which is going to dump another round of snow in our valley - and postpone any ideas of going for a real ride anytime soon....
 

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I had you a lot closer to Arco/Craters of the Moon area. :D

Glad you got it running. If I wasn't lazy and went out to the shop every couple of days and started our TW's it would avoid my hard starting issues. I was surprised mine would not start with the kick starter when it was very cold and hadn't been started for a while. I kicked it a lot and it wouldn't even pop. 15 minutes on the battery charger and it would fire right up. Then the kicker would work of course!:p Still have a couple feet of snow on the ground around here so not doing much riding at all.

Almost forgot. I used JB Weld Steelstick to stop a leak on the engine case near the starter because of a chipped face on the engine side of the left cover. The Steelstick worked great and when I had to take the cover off to replace the front sprocket I just chipped it off with some lite taps with a small hammer and reapplied the steelstick when I re-installed the cover. Never had any problems and I hope you have the same luck. I guess in time you could replace the side case for piece of mind.

Again, welcome to the forum.
 
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