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Hey everyone,

I bought a brand new TW a few months ago and it has been awesome! The only issue I'm having with the bike is that it likes to stall out right after shifting it into first gear. I didn't have this issue when I first got it but now it happens every time after the first start up. I allow the bike to warm up for about 10 minutes before hopping on and nothing sounds out of the ordinary with the idling. The funny thing is that it only happens the first time I try to put it into gear. After that it shifts into first gear no problem without stalling whatsoever. Just wondering if anyone else out there has encountered this issue. This is my first two-wheeler and I look forward to working on it in the near future. Thanks for reading!

-Freddy
 

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Hold the clutch in for 10 seconds before you put it in gear after the bike has been sitting
 

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Also make sure the kickstand is always up. The safety switch will kill it when in gear with the kickstand down.
 

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Maybe check the clutch return spring on the case is installed correctly, there has been issues with this for some...
 

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There is never any need to let the TW "warm up". The reason your bike is stalling is that the original oil is much stickier than full synthetic, which most of us go to after 1,000 miles for break-in. This sticks the clutch plates to each other and either stalls the engine or produces a big jerk. (don't have it pointed at anything when this happens! :eek:)

The procedure I use is, before starting, shift into 2nd, pull the clutch in and push the bike a couple of feet. It helps if you have a slight incline. I start with full choke, after the RPM's rise, half choke. Then put in first and let the clutch out very slow, just to the point of hearing the RPMs drop, before trying to get it moving. These bikes are set extremely lean to comply with the EPA. The first mod you should do is to pop out the plug at the pilot jet screw opening and turn the screw in to (gently) bottom out then set it to about 2 1/2 turns out. This will fix 90% of the idle/stall problems. See the 4th photo here: http://tw200forum.com/forum/technical-write-ups/881-tk-carb-photos-parts-identification.html


Once you get it broken in, around 1,000 miles, switch to full synthetic (we all like Mobil 1 4T Racing 10w40), and this problem will disappear, as well as some clutch sensitivity and gear action.
 

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Hey everyone,

I bought a brand new TW a few months ago and it has been awesome! The only issue I'm having with the bike is that it likes to stall out right after shifting it into first gear. I didn't have this issue when I first got it but now it happens every time after the first start up. I allow the bike to warm up for about 10 minutes before hopping on and nothing sounds out of the ordinary with the idling. The funny thing is that it only happens the first time I try to put it into gear. After that it shifts into first gear no problem without stalling whatsoever. Just wondering if anyone else out there has encountered this issue. This is my first two-wheeler and I look forward to working on it in the near future. Thanks for reading!

-Freddy
My new tw with 300 miles just did that for the first time today actually. It lunged forward and stalled when I pulled in the clutch and shifted to first after warming up. I was like what the hell? It has been a week since I started it so maybe that had something to do with. I am running full synthetic Amsoil oil, and this was the very first time it happened to me.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

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I have no idea if this has anything to do with your issue but 10 minutes is an awful long time to let that little air cooled motor warm-up on an angle (kick-stand).
Start, put on your helmet and gloves and go.
 

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...The reason your bike is stalling is that the original oil is much stickier... This sticks the clutch plates to each other and either stalls the engine or produces a big jerk...
This appears to be the crux of the issue.

I had the same experience on fully cold starts (bike sat in garage for a couple days), with garage temps in the sixties (F).

Yes, the kickstand switch is dropping, closing the circuit to the two relays and CDI. Stalling was upon shifting to first, after side stand was raised.

There were two alternates to stalling:
1. Roll down the driveway, before shifting into first
2. Let it warm-up for 30 seconds or so

Today, I will try a cold launch, after changing the oil.
 

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I don't like to ride a motorcycle while the manual choke or fuel enrichment is on. So depending how cold it is I will "warm it up" for a couple minutes. But once the idle comes up, with the choke on full, I'll push it in to the half-way point and within a minute start riding. I think 10 minutes is a little too long in one place.

I haven't delved to deep into the internals of the TW engine and transmission but the clutch seems touchy for such a small/low hp engine. I'm not sure if it's the internal springs, friction plates or discs, but as a "starter" bike it's kind of frustrating to me to have to explain to first timers that "the clutch is a little touchy".

When the time comes to change the plates I'm going to try the Barnett kevlar set, I've had good luck with them, as well as get new metal plates and springs.
 

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...the clutch seems touchy for such a small/low hp engine.
It is. But, after riding larger bikes (883cc, 1200 cc, 865 cc) , it seems a very soft pull.
However, as low as first is geared, it does not seem to be an issue after warm-up.
With the mixture at 2 3/4 turns out, I am off the choke (enrichener on the TK MV28) completely in 1/4 mile.
 

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Clutch plates are sticking together. You can put it in 2nd or 3rd and rock it back and forth a bit before starting the bike or shut it off after warm up and put it in gear and rock it. You shouldn't have to do this forever though. It usually just happens after sitting for a long while. Also 10 minutes is way too long for warm up. It doesn't hurt to start out riding on choke or half choke if needed and push it in after a few blocks or when it starts running rough.
 

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Before you start the engine, put the bike in gear , pull the clutch and rock back and forth to unstick the clutch plates.
Put it back in neutral and start it up. Pull the clutch and engage first gear. You're good to go.
 

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No issue with cold starts after the first oil change
Today, it idled for maybe 10 seconds before engaging first gear.
Not even synthetic: Castrol 20/50 4T oil
 

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Another option that I have had to do on my TW and other bikes is to pull in clutch, pull hard on front brake, hold the throttle at a little higher rev, and then shift to first. This stops it from killing the engine and jerking forward, but there is still a noticable clunk. Not sure how great this is on clutch and tranny parts if done regularly though.
 

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My tw hasn't done it again since that one time. I'm convinced now it has to do with sitting for an extended period of time without the clutch being used. That week was the longest my tw has ever sat without being started.


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I have no idea if this has anything to do with your issue but 10 minutes is an awful long time to let that little air cooled motor warm-up on an angle (kick-stand).
Start, put on your helmet and gloves and go.
I usually let my tw warm up for about 3 minutes depending on the weather outside, same for my Ktm. If I can't get the full three minute warmup I usually ride easily for a couple minutes. I have friends who have started their bikes up and started ripping immediately and have had motor issues. But strangely enough it always seems to be 4 strokes that have those issues and not two strokes.
 

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pull in clutch start in first gear and off you go.
 
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