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Decided to do first oil change today and certainly glad I didn't wait untill 600 miles. Went with yamalube and oem filter. Took 1 quart and 5 oz. To bring me to just slightly under full mark.

Think I'm gonna do another at 300 and another at 500

 

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Wow. Where do I source a magnetic drain plug? I was going to put one in anyway, and after seeing that the sooner the better. I had been hoping to get a few miles on the 2011 before leaving for Big Bend and then change the oil. It only has 64 miles at the moment. I put only 1 mile on it. The roads here are solid ice out in the country and the 1 mile I did ride was about 5200 feet too far. I'm convinced now that I'm not waiting for 600 either. I don't remember having that kind of metal in the 98 when I got her, but that was a long time ago....

So, is that normal?
 

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Good, she's breaking-in!. What TW Brian said. Yes, change again at 300 then 500 or 600 miles. FYI, the new Oil filter's are pleated now.I also had one of the type your showing,but after several cleaning's,I went ahead and bought a new pleated one (more surface area).
I've beat this too death in the past,but, have you noticed your oil filter cover will leak a small bit after a filter cleaning / change ?.I need to get an inch pound torque wrench (DoH).
 

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Agree with TW-Brian that that metal is typical at first.

Recently did the first oil change on the 2014 TW at exactly 200 miles with what I would have to say we're identical results.

Plan to change again at 500 then 1,000.
 

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Same as my 2006. After break-in i switched to mobile T4 racing full synthetic. Engines quieter, less heat ping, better shiftiing, and the oil still looks like oil when I change it. In my experience, the heat of the TW turned standard oil into mud way too quickly.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
I went with a new oem oil filter. Yup! It's pleated...didnt notice any leaks from cover yet but I didn't ride it yet. dganey when did you switch to the mobil t4 racing oil? Should I wait till about 1,500 miles? I use the mobil 1 4t oil in ny seadoo jet boat. The boat loves it!
Thanks!
 

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That is what the filter is supposed to do and completely normal in a brand new bike. It might take a few changes to flush all the milling shavings out and doing changes early and often never hurts. Synthetic is great oil but I think given the cost I would do a couple more changes before switching over. Running just a hundred or two hundred miles and dumping clean synthetic seems a waste to me.

Remember heat is the enemy with a new TW so while breaking it in I would be more concerned with not getting it too hot or putting it under a super heavy load for the first 500 miles or so.

GaryL
 

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I went with a new oem oil filter. Yup! It's pleated...didnt notice any leaks from cover yet but I didn't ride it yet. dganey when did you switch to the mobil t4 racing oil? Should I wait till about 1,500 miles? I use the mobil 1 4t oil in ny seadoo jet boat. The boat loves it!
Thanks!
If I remember correctly it was around 600 miles or so. Used yamalube for break-in. The folks who are more studied than I usually recommend traditional oil for break-in and synthetic after that. Has worked well for me. i think I did several oil changes during the 1st 600 miles due to shavings, discoloration and paranoia.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Gary how hot is too hot? Lately just been showing it off...ride to someones house about 20 minutes. Let it sit for an hour
Ride somewhere else let it sit again
Longest ride was maybe 30 minutes
 

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Wow. Where do I source a magnetic drain plug? I was going to put one in anyway, and after seeing that the sooner the better. I had been hoping to get a few miles on the 2011 before leaving for Big Bend and then change the oil. It only has 64 miles at the moment. I put only 1 mile on it. The roads here are solid ice out in the country and the 1 mile I did ride was about 5200 feet too far. I'm convinced now that I'm not waiting for 600 either. I don't remember having that kind of metal in the 98 when I got her, but that was a long time ago....

So, is that normal?
Shavings are normal on a new bike. I use Havoline motorcycle-specific dino oil for Tdub's new top end and Tdub2's complete build, changed at 25, 100, 300, 600, and 1200 miles. At 2000 miles I switched to Mobil 4T. When it warms up I'll go to the Mobil 20w-50.

Gary how hot is too hot? Lately just been showing it off...ride to someones house about 20 minutes. Let it sit for an hour
Ride somewhere else let it sit again
Longest ride was maybe 30 minutes

Excellent. Key is to keep rpm and throttle position changing constantly.

I trailered both my Dubs to the mountains, rode 1 around the tree farm (low rpm, moderate throttle) 30 minutes, then the other, for the first day.

2nd day began with about 75 miles on each, and alternated them down the mountain (high rpm low throttle) about 11 miles, then back up (moderate rpm moderate of throttle) about 11 miles, lots of curves meant constantly on and off the throttle and constantly varying rpm. Just avoid any sustained speed--keep varying throttle position and rpm.

3rd day started with about 220 miles on the odos, so rode down the interstate at 55-70mph (high rpm, low throttle), then back up the old road at a fairly brisk pace (moderate rpm, lots of throttle).

4th day started with about 450 miles on the odos, so I loaded them on the trailer and alternated laps on Tail of the Dragon (high rpm, WFO) in the cool morning, did some suspension tweeks during mid-day, then more laps after a thunderstorm chased all the cops off that afternoon. Loaded them up with about 680 miles on each and brought them home.

Ever since then I've flogged them. It takes about 2500 miles for my Tdubs to fully break in--performance slowly but steadily improves during break-in. Switching to synthetic flat stopped the constant improvement, so I figure the better oil has stopped wear. Tdub2 has an oil temp gauge, and just for kicks I did a 2-way top-end run with the last of the dino, then changed to synthetic and did the same run. Engine oil temp dropped 40-45*F and gained about 1.75mph with an oil change. Food for thought, anyway.
 

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Gary how hot is too hot? Lately just been showing it off...ride to someones house about 20 minutes. Let it sit for an hour
Ride somewhere else let it sit again
Longest ride was maybe 30 minutes
I can't improve one word that qwerty said above! Constantly varying RPMs, load and always keeping some air moving through the fins is the key to gradual break in. I would take a very new TW on a slow and very challenging mountain trail ride on a 100 degree day.

Look upon break in as you would if you started doing sit ups to get in shape. First day do 15 or 20 and increase as your muscles get used to the new demands. Do 100 the first day and it could take three days to recover.

Always allow the new engine to fully warm up before taking off but don't be afraid to run it up through the gears for short bursts but not red lining the RPMs. If you are in the desert and ride in very hot conditions then consider an oil cooler to extend your engines life. I agree with qwerty regarding switching to synthetic only after break in. When you see almost no shavings at an oil change then it is probably time to do the switch.

What we all have to understand is during the machining process of the case, gears and cylinder Yamaha does not polish every piece before assembly. As things wear in and marry inside there will be flakes and shavings falling off and getting caught in the filter.

GaryL
 

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filter , filter , filter - doing just exactly what is supposed to do

One thing to remember is the function of the break in period is exactly that - to break in the engine and as that means metal wearing away you are going to see metal in the filter.

this is definitely not the time to reuse your filter - change it change it and change it again.

5 or 10 years from now your engine will still be purring and the 10 or 15 bucks you spent on those new filters will be so insignificant in your bank records.
 

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Shavings are normal on a new bike. I use Havoline motorcycle-specific dino oil for Tdub's new top end and Tdub2's complete build, changed at 25, 100, 300, 600, and 1200 miles. At 2000 miles I switched to Mobil 4T. When it warms up I'll go to the Mobil 20w-50.
I have a question. Or two. :D So when I take my new TW to the dealer for the first oil change, will they use Yama lube? Or can I request something else? Do I have to use them for the first year for warranty purposes?
 

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Dirtgirl - talk to your sales person - ask those questions - they will be able to answer. There is NOTHING special about Yamalube - it is just one of a number of good lubricants for our favorite motorcycles. I for example because of my background hobbies try to use Aeroshell exclusively for all my bikes. It works in our airplane engines - they are also air cooled so why not
 

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Giving all you guys a big thumbs up....even this old dog can learn a new trick or two, as I prepare for my first riding season with a T~Dub....I am reading much technical stuff and getting some ideas. No Mechanic am I{not even close}, but with my dealer over 100 miles away I plan of doing much of the grunt and small work/changes etc myself...:eek: I know, scares me too....and not much can nearing 65 years on this planet.
 
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