[canadainshiver]

I'm using the socket and hammer method as outlined in the stickies. I can't get my fork oil seals to drive down into place. Any help? If I hammer any harder it will wreck the seals. I used oil to lube. Am I just not being patient enough?

 

[B-dub]

I don't remember the seals as being that hard to drive in. Not being there, let me just throw out some ideas of things to check - remote troubleshooting, or eliminating possibilities.

Compare the outside diameter of your new seals to the old seals you pulled out. It's not likely, but possible they gave you the wrong seals, and easy to check. I used OEM parts, the Alls Balls might be slightly different.

Double check that the socket is smaller in OD than the fork ID.

Did you note the shoulder that limits the downward travel of the seals? When I did my forks the seals went right in, and I could easily tell when they bottomed on the shoulder. When we did my brother's forks it was less definite when the seals had bottomed. I kept tapping on them waiting for the sound and feel that they had bottomed on the shoulder, when in fact they were already there. They're down all the way when you can put the dust seal on top and the groove for the snap ring is fully exposed.

Another idea - sometimes if the seal is not square in the bore, in other words if one side of the seal is lower than the other, it takes some extra pressure and persistence to get it leveled out. By the way, one of the reasons for using a socket just slightly smaller in OD than the seal is so most of the force will be applied to the vertical shoulder of the seal, and therefore less likely to deform the seal.

You were right to stop. There has to be something holding them. Let us know what you find, or don't find.

 

[canadainshiver]

Good news and bad news.

Good news: a sink drain extension makes a very good seal driver. Examples below.

Bad news: I can't get my seals to drive in far enough. This is as far as they will go:

I don't have a caliper to check the ID of fork and OD of seal as good as I'd like but I'm going to check that next. It's close enough that it SHOULD fit. But isn't. Anyone have experience with All Balls seals? Any thoughts?

 

[B-dub]

That's some creative thinking for your seal driver! Nice.

It looks to me like they are very close to being seated. In fact if they were going in and just stopped, I would be willing to bet they are seated.

I can see the groove for the snap ring, and what appears to be about 1/8" below the groove. I would think to get the seal in that far the OD would have to be pretty close to correct. Compare the thickness of your new seal (if you haven't installed the second one yet) with your old seal. If the new seal is thicker, or taller, even by a little bit that's going to be a problem unless the dust seal is a corresponding amount shorter.

Are you doing this with the forks assembled? If not, you could stick a finger through the inside of the seal and try to feel the shoulder inside to see how much it lacks. Or try putting a dust seal on top of your seal, get a mark at the top of the shoulder of the dust seal, and see how much it lacks to be seated.

It's hard to tell in the picture, is the open side of the seal up or down?

 

[canadainshiver]

Forks are not assembled. Just stuck the upper half of fork in to help align seal as I tried to drive it in.

If I put dust cap in, I'm still a fair distance away from being able to put snap ring on.

 

[canadainshiver]

 

[Rainman]

My All Balls seals were a pain to drive in. I mashed them up but they do hold oil. Next time I'll throw them into the freezer for a little longer.

 

[canadainshiver]

Thanks! I thought that might be the case (a little bigger = hard to install but work good once they are in). I'm just crossing my fingers I don't damage them too much.

 

[canadainshiver]

Oil up surfaces.

Buy a sink drain extension

Insert other half of shock (temporarily)

 

[canadainshiver]

Slide on drain pipe

Move up and down with force to seat seal in half way.

Then remove upper portion of shock.

 

[canadainshiver]

Flip lower shock assbly upside down while holding drain pipe (seal driver) in place.

Raise and 'drop' / drive seal in. Check OFTEN.

I ended up using a hammer to pound on pipe drain end also. Repeat until you have enough room for dust seal and snap ring.

 

[B-dub]

Congratulations! Nice procedure you developed for getting those stubborn seals in place.

 

[MTLHead]

Awesome job seating those stubborn seals!!! Just wondering though, if the spring side of your oil seal sould be installed facing downward, into the fork leg- towards the fluid??

 

[canadainshiver]

The All Balls seals have springs on both sides (top and bottom) - although there is still a true 'top' and 'bottom'. There is a double seal on the side that faces down. Good eye though!

 

[craig0ry]

Thank you so much for posting those photos. I don't have the All-Balls kit, but I'm about to do this same procedure today. Very helpful - thanks again.

 

[canadainshiver]

I based all my knowledge off B-Dubs sticky. My hats off to him.

And Rainman for telling me that it was ok when I was pounding the heck outta those seals.

I assume anything other than the All Balls seals would go in much better.

 

[scotcher3]

I was able to hammer in the All Balls seals with a large socket. No real issue. Here is my video of the project:

 

[Errtu]

I was able to hammer in the All Balls seals with a large socket. No real issue. Here is my video of the project:

I was able to hammer in the All Balls seals with a large socket. No real issue. Here is my video of the project:

Do I need to take apart my forks like this to install new springs and oil and dust seals?

 

[scotcher3]

Yes

 

[1953onlytwo]

Im rebuilding a 96 TW, ordered parts, snap ring. dust seal, oil seal and metal slide.
When I put the metal slide in it sits on the bottom lip them there isn't enough room to get the other stuff to fit.
Question: does a 96 have a metal slide?
Sure could use some help. Thanks ahead of time