[admiral]

So, doesn't the TW without the front forks on look like a duck without a bill...maybe...just a little? And to think, some think I belong in Ward 8! lol. Maybe I've spent to much time in the shop.......alone!

Began Truelights fork boot and seal project a couple of days ago. Had to put it on hold halfway through, due to the Jeep's oil light coming on, and my son deciding to remove our house's electrical transformer (replaced that day by Idaho Power Co.) with the side of my Ford F250. But that's another story. (Why do we loan stuff to our kids?)

Anyway, for the benefit of others, I'll share a couple of photo's of the progress I've made so far. And by the way, I did follow the manual, so don't judge my work by the photo's or in the order they appear!



Remember, always use the correct tools for the job.

Ok, let the damage...err I mean repair begin. Need to remove front tire, fender, brake cable etc...

Next, remove the upper triple tree clamp bolts.

Then I have to remove a couple bolts left and right from the lower triple tree clamp.

Then after some light and gentle tugging, pulling, and cussing...shazam!....forks removed successfully.

To be continue...tomorrow (or the next day) I will begin to disassemble the tubes, inspect components, and remove/replace the seals, boots, fork oil...as long as my other son's don't want to barrow a my Jeep or F250!

 

[Rainman]

Thanks for the pics. I'm looking forward to the rest.

 

[uktw125]

Thats some very skillful use of the "Birmingham screwdriver" Admiral.

 

[mrlmd]

Hey - clean up that rusty tool!

 

[wrhux]

Hey - clean up that rusty tool!

My wife told me the same thing!!!



Any photo montage using the ball peen pointer is okay by me.



I recently purchased three non-running Tdubs that I hope will result in one runner. Early in the dis-assembly adventure,I tried something that helped. After struggling to remove the first fork tube from death grip of the loosened triple tree clamps, I gently tapped a large screwdriver tip into each clamp slot. Thus sprung, the fork tubes slid easily out of their confinement.



My wife says I'm smarter than I look......

-Reverend Bill

 

[Gerry]

Hey Kris, that is the tool that I use the most (

), We are just Lucky I guess. Gerry

 

[qwerty]

What a bunch of crap. A TW without forks is like a unicycle. Sheesh, everyone knows that.

 

[bikerjosh]

Quack!

 

[phelonius]

Do you use that Harley Davidson valve adjuster for everything?



Phelonius

 

[admiral]

I gently tapped a large screwdriver tip into each clamp slot. Thus sprung, the fork tubes slid easily out of their confinement.



-Reverend Bill

Exactly what I did on one side...and I used that hammer too. he he.



Other side slide out nicely without using the above mentioned technique. Well...I did start it by tapping down on the top of the fork...with that hammer!



Back to work on it today in a few minutes. Fired up the wood stove to get the chill out of the shop. And good news too...it's raining all day so I won't feel like I'm missing out on any riding!

 

[Polarpilot]

CAUTION = do not force anything

Use a bigger hammer

 

[admiral]

Got Truelights fork seals and boot replaced. Now the "bill-less" TW looks like a TW again. I can say that after a 200-300 mile test run on his bike, the forks work well with no leaks! giggle, I didn't really go that far...but I wanted too since mine is still down for paint.



Here's some photo's of the mission. Note: this is not a step-by-step inclusive photo instruction, but will identify the parts better than the manual does, and one can use the photo's to help them along...or decide to have someone else do it for them. LOL.

 

[admiral]

Now I can start working on mine.

 

[Rohnsman]

Hey...! I recognize that bike!!

I feel a bit guilty with Admiral doing all of this work on my bike while his lies in a million pieces. But then it wasn't me who told him to strip his to the bare bones!

I was a bit shocked when I saw it.



Seriously... If he has his running again in time for the fast approaching riding season I will consider him a "Master Mechanic!!"



Thanks for your great work my friend!

 

[Rainman]

What wonderful pictures and text! Thank you very much!

 

[Rainman]

Thanks Admiral for the tutorial and all your help.



My damper rod holder consisted of a 15 inch metal rod with a nut for a 12 MM bolt (12 MM I.D./ 19 MM O.D. just your standard 12MM nut), welded on both ends. Worked great.



I used my tire spoon to remove the oil seal. Removing the seal was the hardest part!