[meatshieldChris]

Because I can't leave well enough alone, I want to level my bike out. With my swingarm extension and bigger tire in the rear, the front end wants to be 1.5 or 2" higher. The chopper world has replacement fork tube caps that have long sections above the thread that matceh the tube diameter so the clamps can still clamp onto them. I think I might make a set. Wonder if anyone's heard of this in the dirt world? I'm looking for precident for hard hits pulling the threads out at an angle or anything. I'm going to use aluminum so that it pulls the aluminum threads out instead of the fork tube threads just in case. Yes, I know, YZ80 fork tubes, but I have the aluminum in stock and it's a 2 hour lathe job.

It sounds like a bad idea to me on a big chopper with very long fork tubes, but on a tw? I dunno.

 

[Workingman]

I myself would much prefer just using longer fork tubes .....
Expensive yes ..... Safe yes....a quality upgrade yes....,,..
Your T-dub deserves only the best....., It's not like it's a cheap old ktm or something...
forks by frank has always been my go to......
I have not done any business with them since frank passed on..( great guy )
If they are still in business that's where I'm going when it's time to do my front end ....
I will probably go three inches over....
That way I will just be able to slide them wherever I need them for the rest of my life...

Great fork tubes with a good long lasting finish ...
A thicker tube wall . A few ounces heavier , much stiffer and more stable ...
Just my two cents but they are worth a nickel 😉
mike from NC

 

[NC Rick]

Nice work on the lathe!

 

[meatshieldChris]

I decided to go another route and just move the swingarm mounting hole for the shock. Hopefully I have enough tire clearance! If not I'll go after the fork end again. It only needs to move 0.39" to move the rear wheel 1.5" which means the new hole overlaps the old hole so I had to weld up the old hole a little bit. Doesn't feel like I'm sliding down hill forwards anymore so I'll test tire clearance with some ratchet straps and a board. 6.49" wheel travel now, so it could be a problem.

 

[Ski Pro 3]

Dang! I was hoping to test your fork extensions. Please reconsider. Much easier than removing the swingarm again.

 

[flat4]

Because I can't leave well enough alone, I want to level my bike out. With my swingarm extension and bigger tire in the rear, the front end wants to be 1.5 or 2" higher. The chopper world has replacement fork tube caps that have long sections above the thread that matceh the tube diameter so the clamps can still clamp onto them. I think I might make a set. Wonder if anyone's heard of this in the dirt world? I'm looking for precident for hard hits pulling the threads out at an angle or anything. I'm going to use aluminum so that it pulls the aluminum threads out instead of the fork tube threads just in case. Yes, I know, YZ80 fork tubes, but I have the aluminum in stock and it's a 2 hour lathe job.

It sounds like a bad idea to me on a big chopper with very long fork tubes, but on a tw? I dunno.

View attachment 226251

We discussed these not long ago. They will work! We used them on the Honda Xr's. You could change fork height and fork angle for terrain or different tire heights. I have a friend that still uses them to this day.

Should you make some of these i am willing to buy a set from you.

 

[meatshieldChris]

I may still if I didn't make a huge mistake and will smash the tire on the subframe when it bottoms out! I'll check that tonight.

 

[flat4]

I may still if I didn't make a huge mistake and will smash the tire on the subframe when it bottoms out! I'll check that tonight.

Definitely could be a concern if you run one of the ATV tires. Keep us posted.

 

[meatshieldChris]

Definitely could be a concern if you run one of the ATV tires. Keep us posted.

it's fine, clears by 1/2" at full bump stop compression with a Bighorn 2.0 tire and a 2" swingarm extension. Also rides very nice, looks like I slightly changed the shock geometry and made my shock preload perfect accidentally!

 

[Fred]

Installing longer forks from an XT225 is another option. Boring the 33mm fork clamp openings to 35mm sounds easier than milling 33mm fork extensions.
With XT forks the TW brake and speedo will bolt right up with just need for longer cable and brake hose. Everything remains Yamaha yet you get the stance improvement desired plus a few more inches of fork travel.

 

[meatshieldChris]

Installing longer forks from an XT225 is another option. Boring the 33mm fork clamp openings to 35mm sounds easier than milling 33mm fork extensions.
With XT forks the TW brake and speedo will bolt right up with just need for longer cable and brake hose. Everything remains Yamaha yet you get the stance improvement desired plus a few more inches of fork travel.

I somewhat disagree. The extension caps are a simple beginner lathe job, any lathe is capable of it. You'd need a boring head for the mill to bore the triple clamps and there's more risk if you blow the dimension and scrap the part. Not a big deal either way though.

Next on my list: footpeg lowering brackets!

 

[NC Rick]

The advantage to the XT forks is that they use inner and outer bushings which is a much better setup to me.

it would take a good sized lathe but the triple clamp could be mounted to a faceplate…

 

[Fred]

Sorry for the proven suggestion, was just an idea that achieves your desired stance while also addressing what I feel is the TW's greatest shortcoming: inadequate suspension travel and dampening. But if you are happy with the feel that OEM 6" travel forks yield then forget what I have mentioned.
I'm going to go ride my long travel front and rear TW to cut some more deadfall trees now to reaffirm my opinion for myself. The difference is amazing between my stock suspension TW and the MrGizmo TW. Until one tries an alternative one is unaware of just how potential safety, speed, and comfort our stock TWs give up.

 

[flat4]

it's fine, clears by 1/2" at full bump stop compression with a Bighorn 2.0 tire and a 2" swingarm extension. Also rides very nice, looks like I slightly changed the shock geometry and made my shock preload perfect accidentally!

That is a win for you all around!

I get the XT225 fork idea but the compromise for me would be the over hang at the bottom and the rocks i ride.

That being said i am still interested in the extensions if you do decide to make them up.

 

[meatshieldChris]

That is a win for you all around!

I get the XT225 fork idea but the compromise for me would be the over hang at the bottom and the rocks i ride.

That being said i am still interested in the extensions if you do decide to make them up.

My mod just put the bike back to stock ride height. I didn't go any lower than that. I'll have to see over the winter, that's the time where I have free time to make things.

 

[Ski Pro 3]

Installing longer forks from an XT225 is another option. Boring the 33mm fork clamp openings to 35mm sounds easier than milling 33mm fork extensions.
With XT forks the TW brake and speedo will bolt right up with just need for longer cable and brake hose. Everything remains Yamaha yet you get the stance improvement desired plus a few more inches of fork travel.

I suspect the TTR225 forks will work too. I'm gonna hunt for a TW200 t-clamp and hone it to spec. If a cylinder can be honed, surly a 33mm hole can be honed out to 35mm. That's only 1mm material removed and enlarged. I presume all years are the same?

 

[meatshieldChris]

I suspect the TTR225 forks will work too. I'm gonna hunt for a TW200 t-clamp and hone it to spec. If a cylinder can be honed, surly a 33mm hole can be honed out to 35mm. That's only 1mm material removed and enlarged. I presume all years are the same?

yup, just make sure you're using an expanding mandrel type hone and not one of those spring hones on the 3 arms, need to get it nice and parallel

YZ80 fork tubes work and fit, you just need to transfer your lowers over

 

[Ski Pro 3]

yup, just make sure you're using an expanding mandrel type hone and not one of those spring hones on the 3 arms, need to get it nice and parallel

YZ80 fork tubes work and fit, you just need to transfer your lowers over

The problem is finding an older set. Newer sets are upside down forks. Older sets are all pitted and need a total rebuild. The TTR225 forks I have only need fresh springs, if even that. They don't even need new seals as these don't leak. The YZ forks are minimum $100 and that's for crappy set. I found a complete T-clamp assembly for $30 shipped. Worth a shot anyways. I'm not a fan of the underhanging outer fork tubes though. I had those on a KDX200 and they were always getting snagged in ruts. The TW200 will be worse. The solution for the KDX was a 2000 t-clamp and fork set from a KX250. Upside down and all I needed was to knurl the lower T so it would press onto the OEM stem. Worked great! Oh, I also needed a spacer for the front disc caliper. Because of that I went to a larger rotor and got a Gaffer SS braided brake line.
With the TTR225 forks, I already have brake rotor, caliper, brake line and master cylinder for the extra reach.

 

[NC Rick]

I suspect the TTR225 forks will work too. I'm gonna hunt for a TW200 t-clamp and hone it to spec. If a cylinder can be honed, surly a 33mm hole can be honed out to 35mm. That's only 1mm material removed and enlarged. I presume all years are the same?

honing aluminum is not so great because it wants to load up the stones. Lots and lots of wd40? (Oops, I forgot! TW triple clamp is steel). Almost impossible to keep the hole going straight with such a short aspect ratio. I suppose it will work. I would bore it on a milling machine.

maybe fit the XT triples to the TW?

 

[Ski Pro 3]

maybe fit the XT triples to the TW?

The spread won't allow for the wider TW200 front wheel I would suspect.
The triple tree is steel? Didn't know that. When I honed out my case for the kick starter, I used a sanding drum. worked great. I imagine it wasn't perfect, but since the forks are clamped on the inner tube, not the outer, no worries about inner/outer stiction from a slight warp or non-compliance fit. As long as they clamp the forks up that high with nothing but a spring inside, it should be fine. I may fill gaps with some sort of filler. Perhaps Liquid Steel with a Saran Wrap around the fork tube while it sets. Then remove the fork, Saran Wrap and reassemble. I could index the upper to the lower that way when I set the epoxy with the fork tube as well.

I would prefer the fork extensions if meatshield gets around to milling any. I don't have a problem with the stock forks, just that I'm running an ATV tire and have a 2" extended swingarm I'll be swapping in once my TTR225 motor is ready to transplant.