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Discussion Starter #1
Who is the framing guru out there??? Got a few questions and need some tips..

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Not a framer but one of my tips would be to use a hammer. I'm modernizing now so an air hammer is fine as well.:D


...unless your using steel framing. If that's the case I'm not sure about the hammer thing.
 

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Not a framer but one of my tips would be to use a hammer. I'm modernizing now so an air hammer is fine as well.:D


...unless your using steel framing. If that's the case I'm not sure about the hammer thing.
I might need to run over and trade you out of one of your specialized, experienced hammers, Us Buckaroo types haven't evolved from rocks and sticks yet..

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The American Wood Council offers a nice Wood Framing Manual that addresses most situations.
 

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I am not a framer but did a bunch of finish trim and cabinetmaking around new construction. Maybe ask the questions and see what we can do to answer them. Just so you know I always had a running feud with the framers. Between them not getting walls and corners plum and square I had to come in and "Finish" to get things as close to plum and square as possible. The last job I did was installing crown molding in a new construction high end home and it turned into a complete disaster for me. Holding a straight edge along a wall or ceiling after the sheet rockers got done and it looked like a bunch of drunks did the framing and used some real junk stud in the process. Alex Plus was my only friend and I had to buy it by the case.

GaryL
 

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I am not a framer but did a bunch of finish trim and cabinetmaking around new construction. Maybe ask the questions and see what we can do to answer them. Just so you know I always had a running feud with the framers. Between them not getting walls and corners plum and square I had to come in and "Finish" to get things as close to plum and square as possible. The last job I did was installing crown molding in a new construction high end home and it turned into a complete disaster for me. Holding a straight edge along a wall or ceiling after the sheet rockers got done and it looked like a bunch of drunks did the framing and used some real junk stud in the process. Alex Plus was my only friend and I had to buy it by the case.

GaryL
Will grab some pics...Want to put up a wall in the center of a 30X70 cinder block shop...10 ft to rafters joists... Want to frame off concrete floor section to make it easier to heat...will OSB sheet wall, and sheetrock lid to hold insulation...want a center door in wall to enable me to drag a tractor in if I have to work on a dead one...

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Will grab some pics...Want to put up a wall in the center of a 30X70 cinder block shop...10 ft to rafters joists... Want to frame off concrete floor section to make it easier to heat...will OSB sheet wall, and sheetrock lid to hold insulation...want a center door in wall to enable me to drag a tractor in if I have to work on a dead one...

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The size of the door, width, height and weight will determine the needed header and frame size. If you have an 84 Lumber supply near you they have about the best computer program I have used to work out those details. Unlike the big box stores, 84 has guys that actually do know building and around here they also know the code enforcement regulations for the local towns. OSB (Oriented Strand Board) is an excellent product but basically meant to be covered over in most applications. It does not take well to being painted as a cover over it. We call it Flake Board here and it is very strong however very flaky if left exposed either inside and certainly never outside in the weather. I would suggest using CDX ply if you plan to leave it uncovered inside.

GaryL
 

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... and as Gary well knows start with good materials. I try to always cull the lumber and build with straight, unwarped pieces. Helping a friend today replace a fence and quality of pressure treated timbers he got is dissappointing.
The shop floor and wall plan sounds straight forward. Frame flat on floor then tip up wall sections?
 

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Oh I can frame and finish... But I am pretty slow now. hahahaaa

A few years ago there was a consensus that I needed a bigger shop. My old one was just a garage... and it was full of stuff!

The decision came down to order a metal building... 30x30. We ordered it online. 1 16x12 roll up door, 1 8x7 roll up. 2 walk in doors, insulated... $23K....
It took 53 yards of concrete to do the pad and ramp drive into the big roll up. Son and I did all the electrical.

If I were to have built this thing out of wood I would have still been working on it. The fellas that delivered and built the shop took 2 days... Amazing! I did upgrade the structure to high load/wind although we do not have snow nor really bad wind.

It is glorious! I have rebuilt 2 engines, rebuilt and changed gearing in a transfer case, replaced 2 transmissions, worked on my Tw and scooter and the list goes on.

0708161733a.jpg
0708161732.jpg

More pictures here of the finished and partly filled with my JUNK:

https://photos.google.com/share/AF1QipPoc9ZCFpQTgvPM53XwCoJIVGBK806qwEZXeIAZ2ZVdM_nMS12UMU6R6W88CpzvfQ?key=Z3FSbFI4NlctSmRrNk5OS01zWU9NM0oxSkdYZl9R

The build:

https://photos.google.com/share/AF1QipNKXilph-7aQP9-w4exPA5KQ2Oe31Rfk_uSjg0mlYagf_f0fahC9wpa7iiv-rj1lw?key=MWtmNjZ0aF9lQU9ScmJuV19IYXM1Z2MwVlhiZU5n

We just finished building a 8x14 shed kit from Costco. This took a couple of weeks:

1107181500.jpg

The build:

https://photos.google.com/share/AF1QipPasPfHUyF4NW-9B9QyTfYn9wMGozNVhCzDo1Hih-j2zQmuFWtxYmWKFyihlx6Ctg?key=X2oycmZ3d0pfYUExVm12enEzUGx2cWVrQXRvUE9R
 

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Very Nice JT! I went the same route but on a smaller scale 20X24 with a 9 foot high opening. Damn regulations and the taxes here caused all sorts of grief. First is if you pour a concrete pad it becomes a heavily taxable out building. Then if it is on the ground or a gravel pad it can only have 2 sides enclosed like a pole building with no front or back and only the sides enclosed. My township does not like permanent steel buildings so I had to work around the dumb regulations. Right after the inspector approved the building I immediately closed off the front and back with very heavy vinyl. Both ends are not considered permanent so they can't tax it. My wife does all the big road side billboards for her business and those are real heavy vinyl stretched over the wood billboard frames. The Vinyl printing company is always screwing up the art work on these large vinyls so my wife can bring home the new but screwed up ones they can't use. Plenty big enough and they last for years because they are very heavy. I have the one on the back permanently mounted and the front one is split in the middle and can roll up like your door. I hate the gravel base but it sure is a great storage unit for my tractor, kayaks, bikes and all the other stuff I have stuffed into it. If I went the way you went with what they would deem a permanent structure it would have raised my property and school taxes by close to $3,000 per year. The entire building including the gravel pad and completed installation cost me a total of $3,500 and they had it built in 6 hours from start to finish with a 4 man crew. BTW, I also went with the upgraded weight and wind load because we do get feet of snow here and plenty of high winds but the snow rarely ever piles up to high before it slides right off.

GaryL
 

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If it’s just a partition wall and not a bearing wall you won’t need much of a header for your door. Especially if you anchor the wall to the concrete floor and ceiling as you should. As for OSB, it can be finished and painted but it needs to be primered with oil based primer on the smooth side first. This keeps it from flaking. After that you can use whatever paint you like. I’ve used it for sheeting on garages and shops I’ve built.
 

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Depending on where the door is located in your wall you could consider a sliding type barn door. These doors are very easy to construct and all the hardware is available at Home Depot. They are a near zero clearance door and can be built as tall or long as you desire. You just need the wall area on the side the door rolls toward when it’s opened.
As for sheetrocking the lid, you can use OSB for that as well if you choose. This isn’t an occupancy so the only advantage Sheetrock gives you is fire resistivness.
A lot depends on how you want to finish the walls and ceiling. The last building I did the owner wanted all the OSB on the walls and ceiling installed with 1 5/8” Phillips deck screws. If he needs to remove a panel for access it’s very easy. Not something you can do with Sheetrock. He calls the OSB “texture board”.
I would prefer to use plywood, but when you look at the cost of a single sheet it’s hard to afford the difference. There are some places where you can’t scrimp though.

9D915861-CCC9-4B24-B7FA-7DDCE15BB50E.jpeg

B2931D38-0766-4F57-8B46-D577F12A507D.jpeg
 

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Hey Flathats. This is what I do for a living. I was a framing foreman for 15 years in Tucson before moving back home to Elko. Now I build homes and businesses from breaking ground to final inspection. In fact we just passed a final today and will turn the keys over Monday. I should be able to answer any questions you may have. PM me or just ask here and I'll check back periodically.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Thanks guys!!! Got busy today and didn't get any pics or anything...I will be in touch with a few of ya for sure...

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Oh I can frame and finish... But I am pretty slow now. hahahaaa

A few years ago there was a consensus that I needed a bigger shop. My old one was just a garage... and it was full of stuff!

The decision came down to order a metal building... 30x30. We ordered it online. 1 16x12 roll up door, 1 8x7 roll up. 2 walk in doors, insulated... $23K....
It took 53 yards of concrete to do the pad and ramp drive into the big roll up. Son and I did all the electrical.

If I were to have built this thing out of wood I would have still been working on it. The fellas that delivered and built the shop took 2 days... Amazing! I did upgrade the structure to high load/wind although we do not have snow nor really bad wind.

It is glorious! I have rebuilt 2 engines, rebuilt and changed gearing in a transfer case, replaced 2 transmissions, worked on my Tw and scooter and the list goes on.

Do you have more pictures of your garage including the VW's ?
 

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Do you have more pictures of your garage including the VW's ?
I will not post any pictures as to keep the thread on topic. I will provide a link for ya... There are a couple of videos of engines running, pretty cool.
This is my 72 Super. Has 58,000 miles. All orig, interior engine transmission. Rubber around windows is still supple.
https://photos.google.com/album/AF1QipOqEIJgsXN-wz2-CPQBnXSHpBg8p5S-AObebDh8?key=CN2Nj9q4taelFA

Activities in the shop.

https://photos.app.goo.gl/gwG5wTFeRYy7aYuq5

Jim
 
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