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Discussion Starter #1
I was very surprised and disappointed to discover that my new TW does not have drain plugs for the front forks. I have been changing fork oil since I had my 1968 CL 175 Honda! it was rumored back then that the Japanese used fish oil in the forks and replacing it with transmission fluid helped handling. I don't know but that oil sure did stink!

Has anyone drilled and tapped their own drain plugs for the forks?
 

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Does Yamaha proudly call this Anti-Progress or Reverse Evolution? Part of the "Tit for Tat" program?...you want a disc brake, gonna cost you a kickstarter. "Hey, since we gave you a CV carb so no more fork drain screws". What did you expect for a fourteen dollar a pound motorcycle?:rolleyes:
 

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I've never heard of anyone here on the forum taping a hole for the drain plug hole. The good news is you can still change your fork oil as you've done in the past. :) Bad news is your gonna have to remove the fork tubes to do it. :(
 

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Discussion Starter #4
I've never heard of anyone here on the forum taping a hole for the drain plug hole. :(
I'm surprised - compared to some of the stuff you guys do it seems like a pretty simple mod. I only have 32 miles on mine(damn Pa weather) so I won't be changing too much on my bike at least until the factory warranty is up.
 

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I seem to remember Lizrdbrth discussing this. I also thought that for a year or so after Yamaha removed the drains (2001), the lower fork legs still had the nubs on the castings which would make tapping drain holes easier. They were probably just using up their old inventory. I know that by 2005, the nubs were gone.
 

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"Anti-Progress or Reverse Evolution"

Has anyone bought a new small engine (lawnmower snowblower etc.") without a oil drain plug? Honda says to turn the engine upside down or on its side lol Briggs & Stratton tell you to just add oil and don't bother changing it. WTF? All things old are gold.
 

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I've had some old engines it was impossible to get to the oil plugs. Flip them, drain them and fill them. They should be manufactured in there is no debate there. Maybe a new job opportunity tapping and installing usable maintenance items on newer engines.
 

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Discussion Starter #9 (Edited)
My 2015 Mini Cooper doesn't have a dipstick for checking oil! I am supposed to trust the computer! At least I don't have to turn it over to drain the oil - so far;) It makes me wonder if it is worth keeping a vehicle anymore after the warranty runs out.
 

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"Anti-Progress or Reverse Evolution"

Has anyone bought a new small engine (lawnmower snowblower etc.") without a oil drain plug? Honda says to turn the engine upside down or on its side lol Briggs & Stratton tell you to just add oil and don't bother changing it. WTF? All things old are gold.
I've worked on a couple of push mowers that had the "don't change it, just add" engines. I found that to be a little backwards, to say the least. I tore apart a push mower engine this last summer for aluminum scrap. The cam lobes and gear were molded plastic on a steel shaft! Everything is getting to be "throw away"!
 

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Some of the mini 4 stroke motors (Honda and clone by Huasheng) have double oil drains in the castings and only one drilled and tapped. If the other side is easier to access you can always add another drain bolt. I plan to do this on my motorized bicycle.

If there are no drain bolts it's possible they are there in the casting just not drilled and tapped.
 

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You cannot remove item 31 (bolt in bottom of the fork..number from TW fork diagram)? I must be missing something, else that would have been the first response to this thread.

You won't be able to set fork oil level with forks in the bike and the spring not removed, but there is a volume measurement listed in the manual that should be useful.

Nope. I haven't done it. Not on my TW. Take that 'bolt' out (which is the base valve on cartridge forks) on a dirt bike and the oil comes out. The TW is not like that?

Asking primarily 'cuz I want to change the fork oil in my TW without taking the front end apart, and this is the first thread that came up with a 'fork oil change' search.
 

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The bolt in the bottom of the fork holds the damping rod and in my opinion can only be removed with the fork removed from the bike. Check out the fork service write ups in the tech section.

It’s a shame and a step backwards that Yamaha did away with the drain screws.

I agree there are too many “throw away” products on the market nowadays.
 

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You cannot remove item 31 (bolt in bottom of the fork..number from TW fork diagram)? I must be missing something, else that would have been the first response to this thread.

You won't be able to set fork oil level with forks in the bike and the spring not removed, but there is a volume measurement listed in the manual that should be useful.

Nope. I haven't done it. Not on my TW. Take that 'bolt' out (which is the base valve on cartridge forks) on a dirt bike and the oil comes out. The TW is not like that?

Asking primarily 'cuz I want to change the fork oil in my TW without taking the front end apart, and this is the first thread that came up with a 'fork oil change' search.
The volume measurement in the manual is not accurate, it leaved the rebound holes completely uncovered. This topic has been discussed nauseam. The best way to measure is to yank the forks. One thing to note, you really do want to take them apart to clean the sludge that will be in the bottom of the forks anyway. To do this right you really need to yank the forks, completely disassemble ,clean and put them back together. May as well replace the seals while you are at it too.
 

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Discussion Starter #16 (Edited)
Well I finally got around to checking the fork oil on my 2017 TW. I followed Lizrdbrth's Tech Tips and I didn't even break a nail;) The bike only has 350 miles on it so the oil looked like new but was about 145mm from the top of the tube on both sides with the forks fully compressed. Is that they way they all come from the factory? I filled both tubes to the recommended 130 mm from the top and reassembled. If it ever stops raining here I might get to try them out Saturday.
 

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Apparently, the 145 to 150 measurement is typical, as well as significantly different levels....mine were 8 mm different....apparently the factory gnome in charge of filling TW200 forks is senile or a new hire. I think you will find the suspension much improved. Ride it for a few months before doing anything else. Remember, a 3 mm difference is only about 1 teaspoon.

After 6,000 miles, think about the whole flush and fill routine.
 

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"Well I finally got around to checking the fork oil on my 2017 TW. I followed Lizrdbrth's Tech Tips and I didn't even break a nail;) The bike only has 350 miles on it so the oil looked like new but was about 145mm from the top of the tube on both sides with the forks fully compressed. Is that they way they all come from the factory? I filled both tubes to the recommended 130 mm from the top and reassembled. If it ever stops raining here I might get to try them out Saturday."

Yep when I checked mine they were about 20 mm low.
 

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I understand that the best way to measure fork oil is in distance/length/depth numbers, not volume numbers. That doesn't mean using a volume measurement doesn't work no-way no-how. What volume measurement equals what depth measurement seems to be a sticking point, but that would have to be sorted out only once.

Seems that 130mm has been noted as a place to start if one doesn't know what's going on. There are repeated references to spec'd oil level NOT being enough; that rebound orifices are uncovered at that level. Also, there are repeated mentions of the OEM level to be much more than (higher number..less oil) 130mm.

The service manual (mine anyway) states the level to be set at 130mm. You see the problem, I will presume.

As many times as the fork oil issue has been questioned/covered, I don't see an answer to my question.

Unless the TW forks are strange beasts, removing the bottom plug will indeed drain the fork oil. I cannot address NOT doing it that way as the ONLY way it can be done. Seeing as I've done it exactly that way in more than one bike more times than I can count and had no trouble doing it tells me it just might work.

I'll post what I get for a depth number when I change my fork oil...and add 8oz. for starters.
 

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You can pull that bolt out of the bottom of the forks, and drain the oil

The potential problems start when it comes to replacing that bolt, which threads into the guts of the forks. Unless you can "lock up" the guts, you will never get the torque necessary to secure the parts into place. While it is perfectly possible to do this, you're effectively making a mountain out of a mole hill

It is much simpler to remove the fork and invert it - the rest of it involves a Hamster and breathing apparatus, the details of which I'm reluctant to go into at this stage - I'm really don't want to get him excited over this again .....
 
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