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Fuel Stablizers, Conditioners and Cleaners

2297 Views 11 Replies 6 Participants Last post by  RockyTFS

I did this test because I have had problems with water-ethanol-gas going bad in my boats, bikes, and 5th wheel. I took several fuel stabilizers and conditioners and put the same amount of water in the plastic container and different fuel additives to test what would happen. Once phase separation or condensation occurs you will have water puddle at the bottom of your tank and or carburetor bowl.

From left to right:

#1 Sta-Bal

#2 STP Complete fuel system cleaner

#3 Maxima Fuel storage-stabilizer

#4 Startron

#5 FuelMedic

There technology prevents the formation of this water by creating a chemical reaction that permanently removes the water from the fuel.

#6 Lucas Fuel Conditioner

#7 Briggs & Stratton

#8 Lucas Deep clean fuel system

The color at the very bottom 1/8 inch of each container is just a reflection from the uneven bottom of the container. I could not get a shot without it showing.

What are you running in you engines and what are you using in your fuel when storing your bikes?

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quote name='ezman671' date='04 April 2012 - 12:45 PM' timestamp='1333572358' post='41800']

Sea Foam


Here is your Sea Foam with water added. See the water at the bottom of the container.

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Was just wondering why Sea Foam was not one of your original test items.

Thanks for showing the Sea Foam test. Did it really not absorb the water at all?

I did not use the Sea Foam because this is a test as i go. I'm trying to but a couple of products per week and at $10.00 each it will take time.

No the water is still at the bottom even after shacking it again and riding around in my truck.


Try again with an 90% regular gas and 10% water shaken mix then add that to the conditioners.

If you just put water in the conditioners then any organic alcohol, ketone, or even organic acid would be miscible in the water. This IS NOT the same as keeping the gas.ethanol.water solubility from breaking.

The other problem is microbes, jellying and dried varnish stuff.

My successful routine is



squirt of fogging oil

Keep all vented tanks full to the brim

Note: snow blower is running 3 year old gas fine !!

Your engine would also run 1/2 ok if the water was kept as small droplets in suspension so gas would appear cloudy as long as the carb/engine does not gets pure water

* I like seafoam for removing deposits not as gas keeper

You could run some tests?

Ck out there web site?

Maybe use one product that works alone?

Any conclusions, Ronnydog?

I use the marine version of Sta-bil, or Seafoam, or Startron.

All have left a layer of water at the bottom of the tank after 4 to 5 months of storage.

On the motorcycles, I have taken to running the carbs or fuel injection dry after shutting off the fuel supply.

Running the fuel dry prevents the gas turning to goo, but allows the 0-rngs and seals/gaskets to dry out. So o-rings may need to be replaced. Sometimes the newer o-rings will swell up to their original size when re-exposed to fuel.

Usually I fill the metal tanks full to keep the tank from rusting. On the TW with the plastic Clarke tank and the boat with a plastic tank I try to leave it empty.

In the past, I have tried emptying the metal tanks and fogging the interior. This works but is extra effort.

At the beginning of the riding season for me (mid April in NC), I drain the full tanks and put the fuel in my wife's car, a few gallons at a time.

Then I fill up with fresh gas.

Of course you could do like Qwerty does... make your own non-ethanol gas.


Conclusions....well so far I like the Fuel Medic, ck youtube and see for yourself.

They claim the product will reduce carbon, water, emissions, smoke, sludge, rust, algae, varnishes, and Increase power, lubricity, hoursepower, milage, fuel life and injector life, fuel line freeze ups improves atomization of fuel.

32oz treats treats 500 gallons of fuel

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