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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Just a FYI - I used this oil rather than my goto Shell Rotella to try out on the TW. It says designed for wet clutches. I had some slippage at higher rpm/speeds today on my ride. I will be draining and replacing, just FYI. I'll either go back to Shell Rotella or just drop in some OEM Yamalube. Keep in mind you results may vary. Just a heads up and something to keep in mind when shopping for oil. Disclosure: I have had good luck with this oil in the distant past and figured I would try it again. The TW specifically however doesn't seem to like it too much. My experience anyhow.

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DISREGARD: READ POST #11 --> https://www.tw200forum.com/forum/technical-help/64096-fyi-minor-clutch-slippage-full-synthetic-2.html#post988998
 

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Here, let me spend some of your money: :p
[h=3]78-17 Yamaha TW200 Barnett Friction Clutch Plate kit -5 Plates (Fits: Yamaha TW200)[/h][h=3]Vesrah Heavy Duty Clutch Spring Set SK-206[/h]
Seriously, nice heads up r.e. the Lucas Motorcycle oil; I would have tried it if I saw it on the shelves.
The clutch upgrades have gotten good reviews by members here. However you would have to scrape off the old clutch cover gasket, something I wouldn't wish on anyone. Just the stronger springs, or fifty cents for 4 washers under OEM springs might increase engagement forces enough to compensate for the slippery Lucas.
 
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Discussion Starter #3
Here, let me spend some of your money: :p
[h=3]78-17 Yamaha TW200 Barnett Friction Clutch Plate kit -5 Plates (Fits: Yamaha TW200)[/h][h=3]Vesrah Heavy Duty Clutch Spring Set SK-206[/h]
Seriously, nice heads up r.e. the Lucas Motorcycle oil; I would have tried it if I saw it on the shelves.
The clutch upgrades have gotten good reviews by members here. However you would have to scrape off the old clutch cover gasket, something I wouldn't wish on anyone. Just the stronger springs, or fifty cents for 4 washers under OEM springs might increase engagement forces enough to compensate for the slippery Lucas.
I put in a new clutch with stiffer springs when I installed my kickstart. Great info and links though. Would have saved me some time when I was looking. Thanks. Also weird to me how watery the Lucas was. Very thin it seemed :confused:
 

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Make sure you have enough slack in the cable take-up. If it is too tight it can induce slippage.
(Slight gap between clutch lever and perch, handlebar end.)
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Make sure you have enough slack in the cable take-up. If it is too tight it can induce slippage.
(Slight gap between clutch lever and perch, handlebar end.)
Thanks. Will double check tomorrow.
 

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I have been running this very oil in my '14 TW since the initial oil change. After 2000+ km, no issues so far... knock on wood!
 

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I have always used a little Lucas Heavy Duty Oil Stabilizer for slipping clutches. I ran Valvoline 20/50 not for wet clutches oil and many months or years later it slipped so I added the oil stabilizer which made the clutches grab. No more than about 4 ounces and don't go over on the oil level. At 40,000 miles I did finally change the clutch plates out to Barnetts. The steel clutch plates were still in great shape.

Also, if it grabs too good you may have loosen your clutch adjustment a tad.
 

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Why did you decide to try something other than the Rotella?
I use Rotella and haven't noticed any problems at all. Good, solid shifting, engine temps, suspension of contaminants.
 

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I will be more interested in hearing if the change back or to some other oil corrects the issue. Seems to me once the discs take a glaze or begin slipping there is little you can do other than to replace the discs or sometimes you can deglaze them with fine sandpaper or soaking them in some chemical. I tend to doubt the issue is caused by the oil but rather the change made the already present issue more pronounced. Keep us posted on what you find.

GaryL
 
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Discussion Starter #11 (Edited)
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Well I don't know if my age is catching up with me or I am trying to do too many things at once. Or maybe something else entirely. So, sure the TW200 is easy to work on, but I have worked on hundreds of bikes. Maybe this one is just more fickle or finicky, I honestly don't know, but once again appreciate this forum and its members. So I checked and adjusted clutch for the 3rd time and I may have been a bit overzealous in creating the tension, adjustment and feedback on the stiffer clutch like I thought it "should" be. Apparently I was wrong. The TW likes a little slop in her clutch. I have a few other bikes and always adjust the clutches the same way and have never had an issue. So that coupled with the new oil experiment led me to believe it was the only thing I did differently, the oil. Guess what...it's not. The oil is just fine. I gave the TW clutch a little more slack/slop than I like the feel of, and guess what.?. It no longer slips at all at speed or RPM. So lesson learned. This bike is definitely different to me than British iron and various performance bikes, but I am getting the hang of it. So yeah, Darth was correct. The oil is fine and I learn again. Embarrassed a bit, but as usual, hopefully others may learn from my folly. Cheers.

:thumbsup:
 

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The TW's clutch is marginal to start with. It doesn't take much for it to start slipping. Both my TW's with a wiseco piston/cam had enough extra power to start slipping the OEM clutch. Both were fine after putting the HD springs in. If the friction discs ever wear out I'll probably get the Barnett's, but so far that hasn't been an issue.

I also have noticed the TW seems to prefer a little more slop in the clutch lever than I'd normally like. Make sure the cable is well lubed also.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
The TW's clutch is marginal to start with. It doesn't take much for it to start slipping. Both my TW's with a wiseco piston/cam had enough extra power to start slipping the OEM clutch. Both were fine after putting the HD springs in. If the friction discs ever wear out I'll probably get the Barnett's, but so far that hasn't been an issue.

I also have noticed the TW seems to prefer a little more slop in the clutch lever than I'd normally like. Make sure the cable is well lubed also.
Same here. Oh well sloppy it is ;)
 

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I always found the TW clutch was the weirdest of any bikes I have ever owned. Up on the lever you had to leave some free play. Even then there was a very short throw at the lever where the clutch was engaged or disengaged. I always kind of felt the clutch basket needed an extra disc or stiffer springs in the clutch basket itself and even on the actuator on the top of the engine case. The oddity of it is once you get it adjusted right it does work fine in pure stock form as long as the discs are not shot or glazed over.

GaryL
 

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Discussion Starter #16
I always found the TW clutch was the weirdest of any bikes I have ever owned. Up on the lever you had to leave some free play. Even then there was a very short throw at the lever where the clutch was engaged or disengaged. I always kind of felt the clutch basket needed an extra disc or stiffer springs in the clutch basket itself and even on the actuator on the top of the engine case. The oddity of it is once you get it adjusted right it does work fine in pure stock form as long as the discs are not shot or glazed over.

GaryL
Yeah, maybe I got lucky and didn't ruin the new discs I put in. Either way, as soon as I made is sloppy and loosened things up a bit, it's working perfectly as it should. No slippage or anything. Oh well. I'll live with a little slop. But yes, the clutch on these are definitely not like any other I have worked on. Like I said, live and learn. Thanks for all the feedback.
 
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