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Ok before anyone jumps on me about searching for things before I ask a question, the search feature on this site sucks and I really would just rather ask the question and get a good clean answer rather then sift through 3 dozen threads to find my answer. So anyways if you don't have something nice to add please just hold your comments.


I'm coming up on 200 miles on my 16 tw200 and am looking in to doing my first service. That being said I already know how to change the oil and clean the filter but my question is how much oil does it take to fill, and if I want to just use standard oil instead of synthetic what weight do you guys use. I have seen some say 10w40 and some say 20w50. Just wondering if you have to use oil that is made for motorcycles with wet bath clutches or if any brand should work. I'm just going to stick to cleaning the factory screen filter for some time before I replace it with a paper filter. Any help is appreciated.
 

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Ok before anyone jumps on me about searching for things before I ask a question, the search feature on this site sucks and I really would just rather ask the question and get a good clean answer rather then sift through 3 dozen threads to find my answer. So anyways if you don't have something nice to add please just hold your comments.


I'm coming up on 200 miles on my 16 tw200 and am looking in to doing my first service. That being said I already know how to change the oil and clean the filter but my question is how much oil does it take to fill, and if I want to just use standard oil instead of synthetic what weight do you guys use. I have seen some say 10w40 and some say 20w50. Just wondering if you have to use oil that is made for motorcycles with wet bath clutches or if any brand should work. I'm just going to stick to cleaning the factory screen filter for some time before I replace it with a paper filter. Any help is appreciated.
First off, welcome to the forum!
it takes about 1.2 quarts to fill up with oil. Most are using 10/40 weight oil as I do. I stayed with regular dino (Valoline) oil till 1800 miles before switching to synthetic (Mobil 4T 10/40 racing). Others have switched earlier w/o any reported problems. YES use ONLY oil that is good for wet clutch or you will have clutch slippage.
 

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Hi Cubby, I am over in Helena and I have used Valvoline 10W-40 for Motorcycles. Not many choices over here, but Walmart always has this and it's a decent price. I don't ride much below 30 degrees or so, other than shorter trips. Usually too much snow on the trails if it is less than freezing. I've did a climb from 4000 to 8000 feet in about 45 minutes in the dead of summer and have not had any problem with 10W-40. 320 pounds between me and the gear and it climbed right up and acted just fine. Have ridden 90 miles in 80 degrees or so and not issue either. As others said, really watch for the motorcycle/wet clutch versions. No clutch issues with the one I use. The Yamaha manuals mostly show 10W-30 or 20W-40. Mine is a 2013 and I have done 4 oil changes, always with Valvoline 10W-40 and I always just clean and re-use that metal screen filter rather than switching. Holding up great. Good luck. Maybe you have more oil options over there. Good luck.
 

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Welcome. 4T Motorcycle oil of your choice. 10-40 for colder and 20-50 for hot.

You are corrrect the search is bad so use google TW200forum then what ever you are looking for ; Best oil, best front tire, best handguards, etc.
 

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Definitely do not use standard oil, not that I have, it will make the clutches act up, not that I have. Standard oil is a no no, not that I have.
I found Valvoline motorcycle oil at WallyWorld. It works a lot better. 10-40w. I read in the manual it calls for "JASO MA" spec oil.
 

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My owners manual says 1.4 US quarts with the filter change. I use kerosene to clean the stock filter and I always switch to full synthetic because it shifts smoother and the engine runs cooler.

GaryL
 

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I think my plan is to change my oil first at 150 miles, then again at 300.

I have a gallon of 10w40 Yamalube arriving today, and I'll use that for these first couple of oil changes. Maybe switch to synthetic at 600 miles.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
I see a lot of people are not switching to synthetic oil till later on, why is that. Should a person break the motor in on dyno oil first? Thanks for all the advise guys, this forum is a great help.
 

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Traditionally, engines need to be "broken in". Rings have to wear to mate properly with cylinders, etc. Aircraft engines, also air cooled for the most part, use mineral oil for this phase - up to around 25 hours or until oil consumption stabilizes.

Too light a load or too effective lubrication can delay this process or prevent it from ever happening.

That said, modern water-cooled engines are engineered to such tight tolerances they ship with synthetic oil and can recommend first oil changes at 10,000 miles or so. As primitive as the TW200 motor is, I plan on dino for the first little bit - I think 600 miles should do it.

But that's hardly the only way to do it, and I'm sure alternative methods complete with anecdotes abound!
 

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I am a firm believer in full synthetic but only because that is what works for me. Purely a personal choice and I also believe all this hype about break in is just that-Hype.

GaryL
 

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I have used dino oil in mine and upon occasion I have used synthetic. I have used oils others say are taboo and have had very little engine wear. I have always broke mine in by manufacturers process. I really think the manufacturer suggests break in for less failure and warranty claims. Slow easy break in will probably catch and flush possible debris left in by manufacturing. I was reading about a v10 dodge viper brought to a track brand new and blew the engine. Professional race track mechanics found debris in the cam channel. Manufactures did not honor the warranty.
 

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We can debate whether it applies to the TW200 motor or not, but its hardly just hype.
I'm in the "not hype" camp, too. I went to 1500 miles on Yamalube 10w40 dino before switching to Mobil 1 4T 10w40 full synthetic. At 15,000 miles my bike uses about 1/4 qt between 1500 mile oil changes. The BMW, on the other hand, had full synthetic from day one. Two completely different engine technologies; the TW is much closer to aircraft engine technology which is essentially 1930's.
 

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These manuals make me laugh. I have 2 right in front of me, TW200 B & BC and the TW200 W & WC. Both show the capacity with filter change as 1.2 US Quarts. Both also show the Total oil capacity as 1.4 US Quarts which probably reflects the fact we can't get all the original oil out unless we split the engine cases. Both only give an oil spec as Yamalube type 4 SE but these are manuals from a 1989 and 1991 TW. The engines to the best of my knowledge are all the exact same right from 1987 up to 2017 with only some minor differences such as the Stator/charging/electrical systems and a different carb starting in 2001

GaryL
 

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And as one can see for most climates this time of year there is significant overlap of both 10w30 and 20w40 motor oils. That said I shall change over to 200w40 before Summer gets serious here. I usually try to avoid +90 degree riding.
 

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... Both show the capacity with filter change as 1.2 US Quarts. Both also show the Total oil capacity as 1.4 US Quarts which probably reflects the fact we can't get all the original oil out unless we split the engine cases.
Ridiculous! I just put in 1 quart at every oil change. I've only had to add about a cup a few times between 1,500 mile changes when I ran it really hard on pavement or in 100 degree temps. Usually the level is only a bit below the middle of the sight gauge when I change it.
 
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