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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Okay, I think it is time to start hooking up my bike. I just ordered a Cycleracks rear rack!!! And I plan on adding some more things in the next couple of weeks. Any input?

-Ebay foot pegs

-Clarke Gas tank

-Ricochet skid

-1" handle bar riser

-47 tooth rear sproket ( I will have about a 30 minute ride to work, speed limit is 55 mph. Flat. Hoping the 47 tooth will lower the rpm's a little )



It is a start!
 

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On my street TW I have a 45-tooth sprocket but I'm very light, I think a 47-tooth will be just fine.



If you want to sell your sparkling brand new white&blue tank to fund the Clarke... I'm looking for one
 

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Muliefeve- Far as I can tell we are in similar situations. I have a new 2010 TW, have put about 600 street miles on it, and am gearing up for an EPIC summer of camping and trail trips. For my bike I am going to add the bigger foot-pegs (an easy add, and having tried both, makes for much more sturdy standing), riser (since I am tall), upgraded chain, and 47 tooth sprocket. I am going to opt out of the Clark Tank. To my eye the thing just looks too bulky on the TW, and I prefer the look of clever auxiliary fuel storage. I am also going to add a kick starter.



Tell me about your Cyclerack! I have the Yamaha TW rack installed now, and its pretty useless.



-DCTW
 

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Okay, I think it is time to start hooking up my bike. I just ordered a Cycleracks rear rack!!! And I plan on adding some more things in the next couple of weeks. Any input?

-Ebay foot pegs

-Clarke Gas tank

-Ricochet skid

-1" handle bar riser

-47 tooth rear sproket ( I will have about a 30 minute ride to work, speed limit is 55 mph. Flat. Hoping the 47 tooth will lower the rpm's a little )



It is a start!


I'm 5'10" and I went with a 2" riser. I like it a lot, I may try a 3". So, you may want to consider bumping up from a 1" riser.

I found the 47 tooth is way better than the 44 I tried initially. I run 70mph interstates for 15 minutes and 55mph highways for 15 minutes to get to work.

If you go Clarke, you may want to consider their XT225 tank as it'll provide more fuel than their TW tank.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Well good feedback. If I do get the XT tank from clarke is it a direct bolt on? Any pics? I would sell you my current shiny tank if I buy another one. Where do I order the new chain from? I am a little over 6' tall. So handle bar risers are a must, with that said I read earlier that you have to replace cables and stuff if you go more then 2" or so...? Also what tusk handguards are you guys using? I searched on Rocky mountain and there are a ton of choices..
 

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Well good feedback. If I do get the XT tank from clarke is it a direct bolt on? Any pics? I would sell you my current shiny tank if I buy another one. Where do I order the new chain from? I am a little over 6' tall. So handle bar risers are a must, with that said I read earlier that you have to replace cables and stuff if you go more then 2" or so...? Also what tusk handguards are you guys using? I searched on Rocky mountain and there are a ton of choices..


I've got Tusk D-Flex handguards with Maier Wind deflectors, you don't need risers just get Protaper Hi ATV bars.
 

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Hi muliefever, I got my rear rack 5 minutes ago! Here's a picture. It's HUGE!!




 

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Mine came today too!!!!! I couldn't wait to put it on and start her up! Here are s few snowy Michigan shots! I am no longer stock!


Great pictures! The more I look at this rack and the more I like it! My bike looks bigger now
 

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First upgrade on any TW should be o-ring chain. Otherwise, you will be dogged by constant chain maintenance, then look down one day, sooner than you can imagine, and the chain will be falling off with the axle slid all the way back. It usually happens right after you pay all your bills for the month and have no cash on hand for $60 worth of gasket, sprockets, and lock tabs, that go with the new $65 o-ring chain. Doesn't matter if you're broke, you'll have to order the parts and weight for them, anyway, so you're TW will be down for the best riding days of the season. Funny how it almost always works out that way.
 

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What kind of riding are you doing to cause the chain to go bad so quickly? I have 3500 miles on my T Dub and my chain was actually pretty good.

Most of my riding was street unfortunately, but still, the chain was fine.
 

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The stock chain is not so bad on tarmac and if you're not too heavy/always ride two up... A member of the French forum got over 30,000 km out of its stock chain by lubricating it often with chainsaw oil and he hasn't replaced it yet.
 

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The stock chain requires constant cleaning and lubricating and adjusting to survive. It is just about as annoying as a high maintenance woman. I have better things to do. I'll take an o-ring chain that requires just enough lube to keep from rusting, and is perfectly happy being adjusted whenever a tire is changed. Chain maintenance every 300 miles (500km) is a rediculous waste of one's life. Maybe where I ride has something to do with it:

 
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